Author Topic: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?  (Read 1101 times)

Offline Martin

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Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« on: April 26, 2010, 11:34:59 AM »
Hello,
So relative newbie question.  I used to climb consistently but recently I got addicted to Surfing and it has monopolized my time, leaving me with the finger strength and forearm endurance of an average relatively new climber.  I do however still love an aesthetically beautiful line and I crave fun techy movement, just don't have the arsenal to climb 5.11+ at the moment.  Does anyone recommend a good 5.8-5.10 climb and crag near MA? I know I could find this at Rumney but the idea of driving 5+ hours round trip to pump out in 3 goes is not appealing.

Thanks in advance. 

PS.  If anyone wants to go / get into surfing hit me up.  It is pretty great.

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2010, 12:56:49 PM »
There is Quincy Quarries...never been there...could be my NH mentality of any place nearest Boston...however Crow Hill near Leominster has some nice lines to offer...as well as Red Rocks off exit 14 of 128 in Gloucester. Den Rock also offers some sharp/short Top Rope/Boulder problems...however the recent glass piles from peoples windows being smashed in is a turn off...then PWay has a bunch as well. The gate s/b open by next week..usually 1st -2nd week in May. Otherwise hike in from the farm. Good luck.
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

Offline frik

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2010, 02:02:50 PM »
Definately Crow hill. Especially in the 5.9 - 5.10 range. Some of the 5.8's are 5.9 too.
It's been a long time, but this is a trad area.

Offline Biker1

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2010, 05:07:29 PM »
Martin,
Where do you usually surf?  I live up in Maine and surf quite a bit. 

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 06:27:37 PM »
Double Helix is a great 5.9 dihedral at Rose Ledge.
Yosemite Crack is a great 5.9 corner/crack at Farley
Eye Opener 5.9- is bolted at Farley
Air Blast 5.9 bolted at Farley

I would start with those four for best 9's in Massachusetts.

Offline strandman

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 07:15:28 PM »
Farley/Rose/ Crow for leading. If you are near boston though the Quarries will get you set up with maybe 80 routes 5.8- 5.10 Tr's

Offline OldEric

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2010, 10:24:11 AM »
What Ward said about Rose and Farley and what John said about Crow.  At Crow specifically try Fool on The Hill (epitomy of thin face) and Intertwine and Diagonal.  Bot only rated 5.8 but nice cracks.  Diagonal actiually gets 8+ - hee hee. :)

DGoguen

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 10:27:45 AM »
At Crow Hill
Diagonal, Tarzan and Thin Line are 8's with a definite 9 feeling onsight. But excellent.
Fool on a Hill is a beautiful 5.9 face climb.
The classic ten would be Crowmagnon Crack for sure. Excellent gear once you get high enough off the ground to break your legs.
You could stick clip the first piece over the cave but a good spotter feels fine.

Offline shakinbaiken

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 10:31:20 AM »
Rose and Farley, where are they?

Crow hill is great to get back into the swing of things, espically on tarzan. Drop me a line if you want to go climbing out that way. i live in boston and have climbed there a couple times. 

Offline strandman

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 10:46:04 AM »
I know PWAY has some great bouldering too, but I always liked Lincoln Woods. If you want to do a TON of V0-V2, LW has dozens of problems and is only an hour  away.

Offline om

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2010, 10:41:41 PM »
... Diagonal actiually gets 8+ - hee hee. :)

No, don't try Diagonal. It's hard and can be dangerous to lead... Gee, Eric, didn't know you so evil  ;)
-om

Offline AntinJ

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2010, 03:04:21 PM »
Double Helix is a great 5.9 dihedral at Rose Ledge.
Yosemite Crack is a great 5.9 corner/crack at Farley
Eye Opener 5.9- is bolted at Farley
Air Blast 5.9 bolted at Farley

I would start with those four for best 9's in Massachusetts.


Completely Agree!

Offline cjdrover

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2010, 08:15:01 AM »
...Diagonal. It's hard ...

+1

I'd say go for it though... it's not that dangerous.

Offline Dave

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2010, 01:17:37 PM »
There is Quincy Quarries...never been there...could be my NH mentality of any place nearest Boston...however Crow Hill near Leominster has some nice lines to offer...as well as Red Rocks off exit 14 of 128 in Gloucester. Den Rock also offers some sharp/short Top Rope/Boulder problems...however the recent glass piles from peoples windows being smashed in is a turn off...then PWay has a bunch as well. The gate s/b open by next week..usually 1st -2nd week in May. Otherwise hike in from the farm. Good luck.

It has been a while since you were at Den Rock. It is all cleaned up and there are bolted TR anchors. All you need are a couple of slings and a few locking biners and you can set up everything there in seconds.

Offline strandman

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Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2010, 06:26:53 PM »
Except that den rocks kinda sucks