Author Topic: Best Way to reach anchors  (Read 1995 times)

Biker1

  • Guest
Best Way to reach anchors
« on: May 03, 2010, 11:15:46 AM »
I was wondering people's methods of getting down to anchors that are 15 or so feet below the edge of the cliff (approaching from the top).  Once a top rope is built, what is the best method of getting on rappel to get to the ground, for a slingshot belay?  Any thoughts would be appreciated!

strandman

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2010, 11:21:00 AM »
2 ropes. use one to rap in and set up the TR with a second line, then continue to the ground on your original rap line. This way you don't have to get off rap and transfer to the other line.

dpen

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2010, 12:29:47 PM »
Of course using a prusik on your rap line........Do you have 2 ropes?   

Biker1

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2010, 01:24:43 PM »
I have a 60 meter dynamic and a 40 foot static.  I'm looking for a second rope, but for the time being just the one 60 meter rope.
Thanks for the help!

AntinJ

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2010, 03:46:08 PM »
Is this a specific route or a hypothetical? 

Although anchors/chains are sometimes well below an easily accessible edge - there are some places where an easy traverse or 4th class down climb can get you to the anchor without having to rap down or lead up.

Biker1

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2010, 04:32:51 PM »
I came into this problem in Vermont.  If there is a 4th class downclimb to get to the anchor, do you protect it at all? 

little lil

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2010, 04:57:09 PM »
For me, that depends on the day, how I feel, the moon, the rock scramble, whether there is a nice ledge once I'm down at the anchor and so on.  If you have a static line (or a rope stump, or some webbing, or pretty much anything...), then you turn that into a quick and simple safety line and use that as your protection.  In general for TR anchors, I rather spend another 30 sec to put up a safety line than ending up real fast at the bottom of the cliff and wishing I had one.   ;)

MAmedic

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2010, 04:59:43 PM »
does a bear shit in the woods? fourth class means that a fall will cause serious injury or death.  Now the funny thing about fourth class is that it can be steep going or it can be essentially a sidewalk high off deck (the GT ledge comes to mind).  Fourth class tends to be underestimated but as a rule I always rope up.  If I am bringing a group up and over fourth class I will fix a line.  If you have questions about how to work in fourth class terrain or set up what seams to be a less that standard toprope concider going out with a guide or more experienced climber.  Either way you will get some instruction and at the very least have a good day on the rock.  Have fun and climb safe.  

Biker1

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2010, 03:31:33 PM »
Another TR question...is everyone okay with clove hitching a bolt to lower down (on prusik) to the anchor or would you back it up with something too?

Offline crazyt

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 152
  • whatever
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2010, 04:21:38 PM »
Another TR question...is everyone okay with clove hitching a bolt to lower down (on prusik) to the anchor or would you back it up with something too?

Please take a lesson from a qualified individual before you hurt yourself or worse, someone else.
work hard, play harder

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1823
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2010, 04:37:30 PM »
Clove hitching a bolt? No, I would not be fine with that. Pardon being blunt, but we are dealing with your safety here and potentially others. I suggest you hook up with some experienced climbers to show you what to do. And I mean truly experienced, not somebody who just says "climbing, sure, I've done that. It's really important to have good mentors, the more the better, so you see little ways of doing things better. Most of us have learned that way. It's super important to drill the basic safety things into your head so they become second nature, like backing things up and being methodical about everything. With time you will learn to do it all quickly, but it is more important in the beginning to do it right .

Back to the bolt: I would lower off a big fat glue in that I personally put in and knew was good, but I would tie into it with a figure 8 or double bowline with stopper not. With a regular bolt I might tie into a big beefy locker and go off one, but it is really a maxim to back things up. I would know I was doing something sketchy going off one bolt. Many bolts can look big and beefy, but actually be crappy. Why not back up your safety?

Clove hitches are used in systems where you want to be able to adjust the length. I wouldn't use that knot for a single  critical anchor point.
Know how to use your atc, but if you climb on single ropes I highly recommend picking up a GriGri. They make so many thing safer and more easily done. Then you don't have to screw around with pain in the ass prussiks. They are fantastic for lowering down on a single strand to get to anchors, scrubbing routes, belaying etc.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 993
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2010, 04:45:47 PM »
Just a brief echo to the excellent advice here-- get qualified instruction IN PERSON, and not through questions to a forum like this one, despite the VAST EXPERIENCE of most of the people posting! If you misunderstand one point and don't have someone more experienced right at hand to point out the error, you can ruin your day and that of anyone else in the vicinity. I think I can speak for many on this forum when I say we have your best interest at heart-- Get Training and have a lifetime of Safer Fun, please.  Jeff Lea

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8130
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #12 on: May 04, 2010, 05:12:22 PM »
 :o  I second what the 2 very experienced guys above said!
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

strandman

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #13 on: May 04, 2010, 05:49:18 PM »
I love clove hitches , but NOT for setting TR's. Not to preach but there is something to be said for still being alive after decades of climbing.
just take your time , esp with Tr's and you'll be fine.

sneoh

  • Guest
Re: Best Way to reach anchors
« Reply #14 on: May 04, 2010, 07:21:36 PM »
2 ropes. use one to rap in and set up the TR with a second line, then continue to the ground on your original rap line. This way you don't have to get off rap and transfer to the other line.
Interesting and certainly makes setting up the TR anchor faster, provided that one does not mind hauling two ropes up to the rap point.  But, it sounds like the rap rope ought to be longer than the TR rope.
Years ago, I spent way too much time setting a TR up on Flesh For Lulu (locating the tree to rap in from was almost epic).  This is a long route, a 60m for TR is the norm.  So the rap rope would have needed to be 70m or longer to work the way John suggested.
John, did I understand your 'method' correctly? 

Thanks!

-S