Author Topic: Which climbing shoes?  (Read 755 times)

Offline hex

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Which climbing shoes?
« on: November 09, 2003, 09:35:59 am »

I am looking to buy my second pair of climbing shoes, my current pair just aren't precise enough for my likings.

There is only a limited selection in the shop near me...

Scarpa Reflex
Scarpa Dominator
Scarpa Dominator V
Anasazi mesa
Red Chilli Torro
Red Chilli Phantom
5-10 xray
Boreal Diablo
5-10 Ascent
Mammut Tusk
and some other crap ones.

I want to push my grade a bit but can't decide waht to get, oh and the staff at the shop are hopeless. The most expensive ones are the Dominator and the Mesa and I found that a seam in the Torro really rubs on my third largest toe. Also I am leaning towards laces rather than velcro...

What do you think?


Offline Tim

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Re: Which climbing shoes?
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2003, 08:43:10 am »
I see that no one has responded to your question...
Huh?  I wonder why?  
What it comes down to...  If you need "better shoes"  in order to "climb harder", you need to take another approach.  Try climbing more!
I climb 5.12 sport and .11 trad in an ancient pair of 5.10 Mojave.  It is considered an "intro" pair and it gets me up the rock.  
Get a pair that fits! and climb more!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Which climbing shoes?
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2003, 09:06:41 am »
in some ways I agre with Tim here. I climbed for years on Boreal Aces. I think my last pair had 8 resoles on them. last year I got a set of 5 10 Spires. they are their intro shoe. i also climbed a LOT more this year than in the past. the shoes are good, but by no means top o the line. but you know, they are just fine. it's the climbing more that's gotten me to feel comfortable on 10c face routes, not the shoes. that said if your shoes are falling apart, by all means get a new pair.

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Offline scottie_c

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Re: Which climbing shoes?
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2003, 05:22:27 pm »
The key to having shoes that perform is how they fit your foot.  Some recommendations would be:
- to crank really hard SHORT stuff in, get very TIGHT slippers, or something similar.
- for sport/trad/multipitch climbing, go with something that is tight, supportive, and allows you to keep it on for a while.
- a comfortable ALL DAY shoe, get a shoe that has more support and maybe a lining.

Other things to consider are all shoes stretch out, your weight, what type of climbing you do, how good you really are...

All of this will determine which category of shoes will suit your needs best.

With a variety of different of shoes, I found that I wore my 5.10 velcro slippers every day I went out, which was quite a bit this year.  I was just looking at them realizing how well they held up too...


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Re: Which climbing shoes?
« Reply #4 on: November 29, 2003, 09:07:14 am »
I used to cram my foot into a tighter shoe thinking it would make me climb harder.  Watching my partner lead 5.8's in his approach shoes made me realize it was my technique that was lacking.  I now wear a shoe that is comfortable enough to wear all day on routes up to 5.10.  If I am attempting something harder I sqeeze into a pair of slippers, but that isn't often.  Go with comfort until you are leading lettered routes.

Offline NorthClimber

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Re: Which climbing shoes?
« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2003, 10:02:13 am »
I think it depends.

Like the other guys are saying, the best shoes for you are the ones that fits you the best.

But if you have alredy develop efficient footwork an are trying hard (12's) face routes then I think you need thigth fitting shoes (slipper).  The important point here is you dont want your feet to roll in the shoe when you are standing on dime edges.  I think that from the list you've provided most wont do the job for this.  The exeption being the scarpa dominator (whitch fit narrow feet doh).  Note however that I'm not familiar with red chilli' shoes ...