Author Topic: Any tips for maintaining balance?  (Read 3393 times)

Derek

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Any tips for maintaining balance?
« on: August 04, 2010, 11:02:34 PM »
I am having trouble relaxing and getting balanced between moves.  This causes me to exert far too much effort and I start to freak out a bit.  Any tips?

little lil

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2010, 11:32:22 PM »
there are a couple of climbing "games" that help improve general movement on the rock.
for instance, pick an easy route, climb w/o using your left arm, then w/o the other one.
pick a slabby route and climb with no hands, feet only.
play this "add on" game with your buddy in the gym.  the idea is to boulder (on a less crowded day) along the wall in the gym.  do one move, remember the holds, then your buddy does it, adds anther move and so on.  the person who peels off first loses.  you usually end up having lots of interesting / balancy moves.
play twister in the gym.  there, you have to stay in balance until the wheel tells you where to go next.

that's all i got.  hope it helped (or at least will entertain you).

lilly

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2010, 11:54:30 PM »
Try being very aware of your breathing and making it deep and even, concentrating on a point behind your solar plexus. It has a calming affect. It's a bit of a cliche, but you are your breath..

http://www.kheper.net/topics/chakras/Solar_Plexus.htm

Climbing takes mental training as much as physical, so practice calming your mind and breathing as you climb, just like cranking hard moves.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

sneoh

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2010, 12:07:28 AM »
Mark made some excellent points.  Being relaxed definitely makes your climbing more efficient and economical.
When you mentioned "This causes me to exert far too much effort", are you saying you feel like you are pulling too much with your arms?  This happens to me when I lose focus and control.  If that is the case, ask yourself if you can move your body or foot/feet around, even just a little, so that your feet support more of your weight, thus relieving your arms.  Once you get some forearm/finger relief, you will be surprised how much more relaxed you are able to feel, further reducing energy-sapping over-gripping with your hands. 
Good luck, relax, and have fun.


Derek

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2010, 06:26:14 AM »
I am defiitely pulling too hard with my arms.  My forearms were spent for two days after my last climb.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2010, 08:14:11 AM »
If you are just starting to climb, over gripping is pretty typical of most people. Your body just has to get used to it, how much pressure is needed and getting used to trusting your rope and your belayer. Just keep at it and you will learn to hold on just enough to not fall off and use your legs to push up. It is amazing what ridiculously small holds you can step on, literally dime edges, once you learn how to position your self. Really focus on using your feet and remember position is usually more important than the size of the hold
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

sneoh

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2010, 08:17:18 AM »
Really focus on using your feet and remember position is usually more important than the size of the hold
Right on mark, Mark!!


Offline Old Mans Ghost

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2010, 02:05:44 PM »
Quote
Any tips for maintaining balance?


One word: Drunken Twister!


I have a question? Who does number one work for.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2010, 03:32:44 PM »
One word: Drunken Twister!

that's 2 words - LOL
Al Hospers
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my music
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Derek

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2010, 04:21:55 PM »
ROFLMAO :D

Offline Old Mans Ghost

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2010, 04:30:00 PM »
that's 2 words - LOL

Look at the big brain on Admin Al!   :P
I have a question? Who does number one work for.

DLottmann

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2010, 06:48:16 PM »
Slack-line definitely helps my balance... but won't do anything for the mental aspect...

strandman

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2010, 08:52:16 PM »
Who's the hot chick in the whiteis ??? ::)

Offline llamero

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2010, 10:48:36 PM »
Here's the low down I've picked up along the way.  For balance:

1) Always keep your body up against the wall.  This is especially true with overhangs.  If your hip is touching rock, your doing well.

2) Top rope a blocky/flaky 5.5 with a pair of tennis balls in each hand.  This really forces you to use good foot work.

3) Always push up with the feet, don't pull up with the arms.

4) Let your skeleton take the weight rather than your muscles.  For example, it's much easier to hang on an extended arm than it is to have it contracted.

5) Boulder.  Most problems can't be forced, so you will have to use good balance and planning to solve the problem.

6) Watch good climbers climb.  I learned more about rock climbing watching veterans tackle V5 or 5.11 problems than I ever did with any instruction.  I still remember the day Colin Haley came into the gym and glided his way up a 5.12b onsight using entirely static moves.  I was floored with how easy he made it look!

To relax, I've found that only comes with time.  I finally feel relaxed and comfortable following or on top rope after 2 years of climbing.  I am still nervous on lead, but I only spent one summer working on that.  The placebo effect of chalking your hands when freaked out cannot be understated!
It is better to not summit and wish you had, than to summit and wish you hadn't.

sneoh

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Re: Any tips for maintaining balance?
« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2010, 11:10:29 PM »
I hate to generalize but I have found that, on the average, women climber have better balance and control than their male counterpart at a comparable skill level.  If you can, climb with one or more female climbers who are better than you and learn what they are doing 'right'.  In climbing, 'climb like a girl' can actually be a good thing.
No, I am not female :)