Author Topic: winter rock rack  (Read 148 times)

Offline Admin Al

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winter rock rack
« on: January 13, 2004, 04:11:58 PM »
so what do people use for a rock rack in the winter? do you carry the whole thing, or just selected pieces? or do you just carry rock gear when you KNOW you are going to need it?

I've taken to carrying the following:

4 tricams
assorted nuts (no doubles)
green alien
.75 Camelot
occasionally #1 & #2 Camelot
3-4 assorted pins

so far I haven't needed anything more, but I'm not doing heavy mixed routes myself.

Al
« Last Edit: January 13, 2004, 04:12:12 PM by admin »
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DLottmann

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Re: winter rock rack
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2004, 06:12:10 PM »
I don't carry any rock gear unless I am heading to a route that might need some, in which case I usually seek beta.  Starting to think I should have a few pins on my harness.  My typical "winter rock rack" though would be small nuts, 3 small tri-cams, 2-3 aliens, 1-2 junior camalots.

Offline Schandy

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Re: winter rock rack
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2004, 06:04:44 AM »
I like a few hexes because they are light and can work well in less than ideal cracks.  Cams in somewhat icy cracks scare me, but a hex might actualy work in some cases.  Plus if they don't quite fit they can be persueded into place with a few taps of the hammer.  

Offline Jason

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Re: winter rock rack
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2004, 08:33:21 AM »
I make a point to write down the rock gear I used on a climb in my guidebook as soon as I get home, so I won't forget for next time.

Offline scottie_c

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Re: winter rock rack
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2004, 06:02:13 AM »
I always carry the itemized rack below:

- 4 pins (knifeblade, lost arrow, 2 bugaboos)
- 2 tricams (pink, red)
- 5 nuts (#3, #5, #7, #9)
- 3 forged friends (#1.5, #2, #3)

One time while on a well established climb, where there was a fixed anchor completely burried in ice, and I had no screws left. Typically, one would not carry rock gear because of the fixed anchors and plentiful ice. This time, I was glad I packed the pins.

Could be scrutinized for not having enough screws though...