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North Bald Cap: new route

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Jack Dorsey and I climbed a really fun route on this big face up in the Mahoosics near Berlin. We know there are established climbs there and whatever we were on was  wilderness rock climbing at its best. We started below an obvious long roof on a clean white slab. We turned the roof on the right, then cruised up a shallow groove on near perfect rock for another 4-500 feet to the top. What made it especially enjoyable was the fact that there were no pins or bolts along the way to reassure us we were on a route that led to the top. We had a blast on it. The climbing we did was probably mostly 5.4-5.5 with a couple of smooth crux sections of 5.6-5.7. The climb ended up being 7 pitches long with trees for belays and there were lots of variations for routes and belays. Near the top we clipped into a fixed anchor, then climbed to the top in two more shorter pitches. At the top there was another fixed rap anchor with Paul Cormier's initials on the hanger. We enjoyed the view and a snack before making five raps totalling 850 feet back from fixed anchors and a couple of trees down to the start.
Actually, the hike in is only half of what it is in the winter. We were able to drive in off Success Pond Rd for a mile, then hiked in on a decent logging road for another mile. The log road and clearcut come within about a hundred yards of the bottom of the face. Pretty staightforward.
For anyone interested in it, Jack will probably post some photos and GPS coordinates for the driving and hiking approach.
PS. Anyone know the name of the climb this sounds like, or the name of any other climbs near the longest part of the main face? This would be way right of the overhanging sport/mixed climbing area. 

Love this kind of climbing!

Click on this link if you'd like to view our pictures:


Nice pics...looks like some nice rock as well...enjoy.

Success Pondroad= you never know what you'll see out there !

Admin Al:

Paul Cormier sent me some info on the climbs he has done out there, I have been remiss on posting them. I'll try & get to them tomorrow or this weekend if I can. you should get in touch with him.


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