Author Topic: good top-roping? Kanc or 302  (Read 1590 times)

DWT

  • Guest
good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« on: September 11, 2010, 01:03:01 PM »
I'm going out tomorrow.  We are both newbies, so top-roping is on the agenda.  Does anyone have a suggestion or two?  I'm confident that I can build a good anchor. 

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2010, 11:06:35 PM »
Jockey's Cap, 302 in Fryeburg, ME... anchors are double bolts.

"Lost Horizon" at Sundown off the Kanc... can be tricky getting to anchors, use a safety line to approach the anchors...

DWT

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2010, 05:13:48 PM »
Thanx Dman.  I just got back from Square Ledge and Whitehorse(under Echo Roof).  We got shutdown today.  It was just enough rain to make me nervous.  Maybe next weekend.

oldmansmith

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2010, 07:19:42 PM »
Check out the area up and left of Screaming Yellow Zonkers at Woodchuck.  A slog to get there, but a nice flat base and a bunch of easy-to-moderate cracks.  It is in Webster's guide; I'm surprised that it isn't more popular.

 

meclimber

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2010, 07:42:36 AM »
ooh, good call ward.  The playground is great,  5.0 nothing to devious lite .10

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2010, 09:17:44 AM »
The glut of bolts make it impossible to distinguish any one line from the next under the Echo roof.  The latest Webster guide lists about 1/3 of the lines that must exist there now.  When did this area become acceptable to place all the iron?  Who is doing it, and in what style (i.e. rap, lead)?

Your typical exaggeration. The "latest" Webster Guide is 14 years old, so it would be easy to conceive some new routes have gone up. I don't know who placed any of the protection bolts on the newer routes, but I believe Brad White put in a couple of the anchors. There is a topo here: http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes_topo&LocationID=2

As for what style: I respect bolting on lead but would prefer new routes have bolts placed at appropriate places to make a good climb vrs. only where there was a drilling stance. Sticking to bolting on lead only ethics can lead to poorly designed routes, or hanging of hooks and still calling it lead, etc. If you need a bolt, put it where it should go the 1st time.

Lastly, Echo Roof is not some grid-bolted area you make it sound to be. Why must areas of a cliff be reclaimed by moss because some 5.11 climber in the 70's basically soloed a 5.7 without placing any bolts?

strandman

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2010, 09:42:04 AM »
WOW DMan- "hanging off hooks and still calling it a lead " ? Yes I do still call it a lead.

Are there really THAT many bolts around the Echo area ? Or are they mostly to the right of Future Shock etc.. ?

Offline Old Mans Ghost

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 93
  • Location: runnin my fingers thru yo mamma's hair
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2010, 09:57:10 AM »
Yes it's still a lead.. "A0, 5.whatever" right?
I have a question? Who does number one work for.

strandman

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2010, 10:11:50 AM »
Of course you pull the rope after ? Right ? I guess then Bachar - Yerian is 5.11 AO (A3) and Aiwass is 5.12 A1 and........
How would you grade a route that is rap bolted A0 - ?

strandman

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2010, 10:34:49 AM »
I don't remember any  >:( Maybe some pins though. It's not really that great a route but decent enough and not to many 5.9 -'s around .

DWT

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2010, 12:46:56 PM »
Yikes! :o   I didn't mean to ruffle everybody's feathers.

Offline Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 993
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2010, 01:08:35 PM »
As you've seen it doesn't take much of a breeze to ruffle feathers around here :D :P

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: good top-roping? Kanc or 302
« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2010, 10:09:24 PM »
WOW DMan- "hanging off hooks and still calling it a lead " ? Yes I do still call it a lead.

Are there really THAT many bolts around the Echo area ? Or are they mostly to the right of Future Shock etc.. ?

I should have clarified. Yes, hanging from hooks is still a lead. In my non-inclusive understanding of the history of FA's though it is not often specified in guidebooks whether a climb "bolted on lead", was bolted from stances or hooks.

I see a difference in the style between the two, as obviously there must be a difference in difficulty depending on the type of climb. Some climbs may allow hooking, while others could only be rap-bolted or soloed.

My main point is Echo Roof is hardly an over-bolted area. If it was it would be popular.