Author Topic: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8  (Read 2041 times)

Offline old_school

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Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« on: September 18, 2010, 09:09:05 PM »
Directions:  To find this route, walk west along the stream bed, which comes from the cirque just south of Humphrey's Ledge. When you are about 100 yards from the West Side Road the stream valley is fairly flat. When it starts to get steeper, turn right (north) up a short talus slope. Find an eight-foot high corner with a 30í pillar to its left. The climb starts 30' left of this landmark. There is also a newly established path that leads past Wabi Sabi Way and along the bottom of the cliff. The path is loose and gravelly and care should be taken if you choose this route.

Description: located 30' right of Lost Canadian, locate a "seemingly" crumbly buttress with an obvious and beautiful black streak above. Despite the relatively loose looking quality of the start, the upper portion of the climb is not to be missed and offers 35-40' of some of the best steep face climbing that Humphrey,s has to offer.

       Pitch 1: Climb easily (but cautiously) at the start of a steep buttress (good gear placements can be found behind the flakes to the left). continue up to the top of the buttress (either slinging the pillar or opting for a large cam placement on the right) to the start of a beautiful black streak with impeccable steep face climbing.      

Gear: 1 bolt near the top, standard rack with several small cams (#00 TCU up to a size 3.5). Bring the tri-cams along as they will be of good use!

Descent: rappel the route with 1 rope 

History:  Sept. 17, 2010 - Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn
« Last Edit: September 18, 2010, 09:12:53 PM by old_school »
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

dpen

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2010, 11:55:53 PM »
Nice work guys.

I look forward to seeing andclimbing the finished product.

D

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2010, 11:56:51 AM »
Right on guys...maybe check it out in the next few days. You in the area this weekend Dave?

Jeremy
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

Offline old_school

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2010, 12:00:03 PM »
Get after it you two!!!
Very fun face moves and a nice setting. Let me know what you think.
~g
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

dpen

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2010, 02:45:08 PM »
Hey Jeremy, hoping to be around Sunday.   

Dave

Offline old_school

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2010, 07:26:30 PM »
Hey Jeremy, hoping to be around Sunday.   Dave

Sweet! Catch up for a frosty after you guys?
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2010, 07:34:15 PM »
I have to ask- Will the companion route be " dog shit dike" ?

Offline old_school

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2010, 07:43:48 PM »
I have to ask- Will the companion route be " dog shit dike" ?

Hahahah...you got it!!! :D
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2010, 08:03:17 PM »
NICE- I asked Base about a route at Frank's one time - Flirtin' with Dikes - it inspired me to do Dykes To Watch Out For.

Maybe neither route has had more than 2 ? repeats +

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2010, 08:11:19 PM »
Quote
Hey Jeremy, hoping to be around Sunday.   Dave


Sweet! Catch up for a frosty after you guys?

Sounds good...
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

dpen

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2010, 02:33:06 PM »
Yeah buddy....

Offline old_school

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #11 on: September 21, 2010, 04:53:32 PM »
NICE- I asked Base about a route at Frank's one time - Flirtin' with Dikes - it inspired me to do Dykes To Watch Out For.

Maybe neither route has had more than 2 ? repeats +

Never heard of either one John. Where are they located? Any good? Ratings, etc..?
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2010, 05:21:23 PM »
Flirtin' in at Frankenstein- 10+ weirdness. It's to the right of Bride of Frankenstein, a good 10b
Dikes is at Bear slab, just west of Crack in the Woods area. 11c or so up to the bolt with a nice soft landing , then diagonal to a belay. Still good potential at Bear.

Offline old_school

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2010, 05:23:16 PM »
Haven't been out to Bear. Sounds interesting though. I like the nice soft landing!!  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Kitty Litter Piller, 5.8
« Reply #14 on: September 21, 2010, 05:35:51 PM »
It's only about 20-25 minutes after crossing the river. Lots of boulders and f'a potential. ABC has been out there with harvey