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Author Topic: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?  (Read 1934 times)

strandman

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2010, 08:12:56 PM »

NO- I'm saying he pussed out 'cause he bent to opinion and added the bolt. I know  Matt and he did create a fine route. I'm just saying that to add a bolt to a route because people say you should is BS.
I''d have to add many a bolt- Should Bit's n Pieces have another bolt ? FUCK NO-Don't like it ? Don't do it
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DLottmann

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2010, 10:35:53 PM »

NO- I'm saying he pussed out 'cause he bent to opinion and added the bolt. I know  Matt and he did create a fine route. I'm just saying that to add a bolt to a route because people say you should is BS.
I''d have to add many a bolt- Should Bit's n Pieces have another bolt ? FUCK NO-Don't like it ? Don't do it

I guess he was influenced by the other "local consensus". Or he gave in to popular opinion, which I like. To add a bolt your own FA climb, to create a climb that is still challenging and will get done and enjoyed by others vrs. sitting unclimbed for 20+ years as an ego trophy in the back of someone's mind... well, I have my opinion on which is better.

Has Bits & Pieces seen many ascents? I've looked at it but run out 5.11 face isn't for me, so I probably will never do it. Plenty of fun rock out there so no biggie...
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strandman

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2010, 10:00:16 AM »

Actually Bit's was quite popular for a while, not so much now i guess. Some have said that the start of HTH is "spicey"- should that have a bolt as well ?

Like you said , no biggie, but good for argument
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perswig

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2010, 11:22:06 AM »

Can we also chisel a placement on CC's staircase so I don't pee my pants again getting to the pin?
Thanks in advance.

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Old Mans Ghost

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2010, 11:51:02 AM »

Quote
"Matt Peer & Craig Stemley made the first ascent on May 29, 1980, placing all the bolts on the lead. Thinking he'd probably fall off the crux move if he stopped to place another bolt, Matt went for it, successfully. The local consensus was that the unprotected crux runout should stay, as that was how the route was first led, but eventually Peer decided to add the bolt on rappel- "much to the dismay of the resident hardmen"- but to the greater benefit of most climbers!"

Wow, the N Conway hardmen have been experiencing tightness in their panties over how other people put their routes in since way back in 1980. I thought it was a more recent phenomenom with the advent of sport climbing.

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I have a question? Who does number one work for.

Dave

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2010, 12:19:05 PM »

NO- I'm saying he pussed out 'cause he bent to opinion and added the bolt. I know  Matt and he did create a fine route. I'm just saying that to add a bolt to a route because people say you should is BS.
I''d have to add many a bolt- Should Bit's n Pieces have another bolt ? FUCK NO-Don't like it ? Don't do it

Bit's n Pieces is fine the way it is! It is certainly one of the scariest routes I have done.
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The other tomcat

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2010, 01:08:31 PM »

Ditto,one of the scariest routes I haven't done,left some skin though...

Matt bolted the crux of his accord,the local pressure was not to.Would not be popular at all in original state.The start is bolted now John...lol...

Children's is fine the way it is.We got beta for that one at the Big Pickle,left trending dike with bolts,we didn't know anything about dikes,so we started up the first left trending one we saw,friggin hard it was too.Turned out to be Last Tango.Childrens seemed a lot easier when we found it.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 02:13:14 PM by The other tomcat »
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Tom Stryker

perswig

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #22 on: September 23, 2010, 02:54:14 PM »

Tom, before your edit I thought you were searching for a Democratic fundraiser staffed by lesbians in the construction industry.  ;D

Children's is certainly fine, I just throw up in my mouth a little until I clip the pin.  And I used lockers on the first bolt.
Bwaak, I'm chicken.


Is this the Oscar .11?  Nice.

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

The other tomcat

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #23 on: September 23, 2010, 03:15:38 PM »

Ahem...yes...well...

That's the Oscar ten that seems like an eleven,at least till I found an easier solution.Boy iz that a nice route.

Everybody hated my quickdraw with a locker as a second,but Tradchick loves it now she's on point.
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Tom Stryker

DLottmann

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #24 on: September 23, 2010, 03:17:28 PM »

The start is bolted now John...lol...

Children's is fine the way it is.We got beta for that one at the Big Pickle,left trending dike with bolts,we didn't know anything about dikes,so we started up the first left trending one we saw,friggin hard it was too.Turned out to be Last Tango.Childrens seemed a lot easier when we found it.

So where was the original 1st bolt on HTH? I thought just the crux bolt was added. The 1st bolt as it stands now is about 20 feet up, after pulling up onto a little nose piece, with good gear just below. Was that not the original pro?

CC is definitely fine the way it is in my opinion. It really is only run-out in the 5.7 bits. The 5.9 moves are pretty well protected though I get the same puke feeling at the mantel others do.
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tradchick

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2010, 04:52:58 PM »

Good to see that guys get that puke feeling too...I thought it was just a chick thing.  ;)
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dpen

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2010, 07:30:29 PM »

Quote
Is this the Oscar .11?  Nice.

Dale

Dale,  that's Oscar's Last Stand....Nice route

Dave
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strandman

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2010, 09:04:34 PM »

So funny- I did the 3rd ascent of HTH and it seemed fine- Trust me I was barely  9+ leader. This may lead to the ""popular" thread which is BS

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OldEric

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #28 on: September 23, 2010, 10:02:48 PM »

We're going around in circles.  We already have established that a route can be deemed "popular" because it gets done  a lot (i.e. Parking Lot wall routes at Rumney) or because it is aspired to be done a lot but is typically a once in a life time thing.  Hopefully this crowd goes by the mostly by the second criteria and doesn't advocate bolting things into submission so they fall into the first category.
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sneoh

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Re: hornets nest on inferno and hotter than hell?
« Reply #29 on: September 23, 2010, 10:13:32 PM »

What a party pooper, Eric!  I have been enjoying the banter quite a bit.
So you think Chloe's at Parking Lot Wall might be a bit overbolted.  Say it ain't so :)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ
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