Author Topic: I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff  (Read 917 times)

Offline M_Sprague

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I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff
« on: September 21, 2010, 10:27:32 AM »
I just got back from a great 3 day weekend out at Green's. While I scrubbed and bolted Saturday, Charley and Greg showed up for a quick visit and ran up the first pitches of Stewart's and Green Party. Also, Dima  Shirokov, Todd Shaffer and Chris Magness traveled in for Sunday and Monday, and Amy Colburn for Monday. It's getting crowded out there!

Sunday Morning, Dima came in early and we established a really fun new 2 pitch 5.10 up on the left side of the Main Wall, called I'm Still Here.



Later, Todd and Chris arrived and I went for Greenpeace. After climbing up and down about 8 times to place the blind gear and psyche myself up to go for the crux I came down, feeling high gravity and slimy holds and turned the route over to Dima. He fired it in great style, finding an offset cam placement to replace the top bolt on the second pitch. I seconded, no falls. Nothing like a top rope, lol. We graded it 5.11+
Here is Chris going for a second ascent on Monday. He was going strong, but painfully hurt a nerve and had to hang. I'm sure when he returns he will send it.


Amy Colburn made a one day trip Monday and lead her personal project, Stewart's Crack, old school 5.9+ hand crack, putting in a good show, hanging in when the going got tough.

There is now a good collection of high quality free routes at Green's, which makes a visit very worth while. Amy made it out in an hour and a half, taking the long way on Monday, so the approach is not as bad as people traditionally think.

There are still a few new lines to do...


There is more information and higher res pictures on http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/greens_cliff_/106755845
« Last Edit: September 21, 2010, 02:48:10 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

strandman

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Re: I'm Still Here and Greenpeace freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2010, 10:53:28 AM »
Just awesome Mark !!! What a great cliff ?  :o Stewarts must have been a real struggle for Amy, since it seemed kinda big hands for me. The other route- Remember Me looks cool too.

Better get out there everyone- only about 99 pitches left  ;)

Is Greenpeace now about one of the best cracks in the state ???

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: I'm Still Here and Greenpeace freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2010, 10:58:30 AM »
Is Greenpeace now about one of the best cracks in the state ???

That is what I am being told, by people who have done more than I. Brady Libby's Crack of the Future, 12c out at Owl's is really good, but is only half the length and climbs more like a face climb. Greenpeace is almost all pure crack climbing and 200 feet long.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2010, 11:03:21 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

strandman

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Re: I'm Still Here and Greenpeace freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2010, 11:05:13 AM »
NICE- i always vote for Zonkers and Budapest, but this sounds even better and longer, nice job

Offline abc

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Re: I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2010, 08:03:46 PM »
Here's a pic and the route description for Remember Me, 5.9 ish.
http://mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/greens_cliff_/the_main_wall/106890010

Offline nuts

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Re: I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2010, 09:07:19 AM »

Greenpeace is one of the best cracks of its style and grade around, with 200' of virtually unbroken jamming.  I haven't seen many lines like this on the East Coast.  This climb alone makes the trek into Green's worthwhile.  Simply amazing, as good as East Coast crack climbing can possibly be.

Chris
Chris Magness

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2010, 10:52:05 AM »
Here is another angle of the 5.8 flakes of "Im Still Here"



 :P

Photo by Dmitriy Shirokov

bigger version here: http://www.mountainproject.com/images/84/58/106898458_large_a9cefd.jpg?1285166881
« Last Edit: September 22, 2010, 11:24:57 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

dpen

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Re: I'm Still Here 5.10 and Greenpeace 5.11+ freed, Green's Cliff
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2010, 08:52:07 PM »
Nice job Amy!   Would like to get out there some time.

Dave