Author Topic: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge  (Read 1291 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« on: September 22, 2010, 10:19:53 PM »
Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95'
Directions:  It's located at Found Ledge. From Rt 16 in Conway drive 4.9 miles west on the Kancamagus Highway. Look for large blow down tree on the left side of the road at a indistinct pullout. Walk into the woods, turn left and follow an old logging road until you come to a very obvious stream on your right. Head uphill and follow the right side of the stream for about 10 minutes until you get to a cairn on a slab. Cross the stream and head up the hill onto the berm and follow it uphill keeping the stream on your right. Eventually you should see the cliff and several huge boulders. The Little Slab is right in between the Lumberjack Wall and the Main Cliff.

The 4 routes on this slab can provide a nice afternoon's climbing, especially on a fall day. Combine them with toproping some of the stellar routes on the Lumberjack Wall and you can have a great day of climbing.

Description: If you don't have your slab climbing chops together you might find yourself with a severe case of Elvis leg. Regardless, you will certainly enjoy some sweet friction climbing.

Pitch 1: Start on the ground just right of an obvious eyebrow at about 12' up. Climb on the left side of the eyebrow past 3 bolts (crux) and the continue past 4 more to the top.

Gear: draws

Descent: rappel the route with 1 60 meter rope 

History:  Sept. 21, 2010 - Al Hospers, Judy Perez, Joe Perez
Al Hospers
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Offline little lil

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2010, 12:04:40 AM »
Obvious finger crack, obvious right facing corner, obvious big tree... all not obvious to me.  I could be wrong with the obvious eyebrow but I fear it may not be obvious enuff either.   :-[
Lilly V.

Offline cwoodman

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2010, 09:55:12 AM »
Way to go guys. Looking forward to checking it out.
Chuck

Offline old_school

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2010, 07:51:59 PM »
Looks like a good one Al. Haven't been out there in years. Really looking forward to trying these new routes out.
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline cwoodman

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2010, 01:12:58 PM »
Hiked in there this morning to climb "Elvis' but the whole slab was soaking wet so we walked past the Lumberjack Wall and did a couple of climbs on the slab around the corner left of the LW top rope/descent trail. Nice rock and great views at the top.  We put in one bolt on a 90' 5.6 and one bolt on a 140' 5.5- we had scoped it out on a rainy day a while back. Descent is by scrambling down the slab on the other side of a large pine tree. There is even an old fire pit on the expansive top with an awesome view of western Maine. What a spot to hang out at and watch a full moon rise. Maybe it was built by Joe Cote back in the day...who knows. After that we walked back to the Little Slab and I managed to lead up a combination of 'Brilliant', and 'A Little Slab'll Do Ya', then traversed over to the top of 'Elvis in the house'. Luckily there were enough dry nubbins to slither to the top on.  
A beautiful, serene spot and really an easy walk in.  
I think a better description for the spot along the Kanc to park at is just west of a large sign that says 'Kancamagus Highway' 'America's Scenic Byway' about 4.9 miles up the Kanc. Park and walk in and follow the stream on its right bank til a cairn is reached. Cross the stream to its left side and follow it til the Little Slab is reached. A very nice hike on a faint trail.  
Chuck
« Last Edit: November 12, 2010, 01:28:28 PM by cwoodman »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2010, 03:39:05 PM »
hey Chuck. yeah, the leftmost section of slab with Elvis IITH is often wet. hope you can get on it something tho.

I had not even noticed a slab left of LW. that's cool. do  you have names for these 2 climbs? were you with Jack D? by the way - I was poking around up there one day on the far right of the cliff right of the Main Wall & saw a right-leaning line up that wall leading to an upper slab and a couple of bolts up there. do you know anything about that?

thanks for the suggestions RE the directions. would you still walk in past the big log? I agree that it's an easy walk in and a nice hike.

--al
« Last Edit: November 12, 2010, 03:43:18 PM by Admin Al »
Al Hospers
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Offline cwoodman

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2010, 06:23:09 PM »
Al,
No, yes, no, no...how's that for pithy!
I know the guidebooks have always described the directions with mileage, etc, but  i think something more exact like 'across from the sign' is easier to pinpoint. For years, I had read the driving directions and gotten close and driven slowly back and forth past a dozen fallen logs.  For me half the fun is just poking around and trying to figure it out with my nose, but if someone's driving for a couple hours, they probably don't want to waste time just wandering in the woods.  Your description is fine but if folks park just west of that sign and head in and stay just right of the stream, they'll find it fairly easily.
Beautiful, secluded spot.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Elvis Is In The House (5.9) 95' :: Found Ledge
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2010, 07:12:07 PM »
No, yes, no, no...how's that for pithy!

LOL... thanks Chuck
Al Hospers
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my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com