Author Topic: Whaleback Slab  (Read 1011 times)


  • Guest
Whaleback Slab
« on: October 06, 2010, 10:24:34 AM »
Jack Dorsey and I recently completed a couple more nice moderates on this slab in the Loon Mountain area. The slab is reminiscent of Table Mountain Slab high above Rainbow Slabs but smaller. The views are perhaps the best of any backcountry climbing I've done in the White Mountains.
Approach via the Clearbrook Condos across from Loon Ski Area and drive up Eagle's Nest Rd till it takes a sharp right away from the brook and park in a spot marked 'V' for visitor. Head into the woods on a good trail- the old Osseo Tr. along the brook for a mile or so. Continue past a wet area and head up very steeply for a half mile, then follow switchbacks as the trail heads to the summit of the 3600' peak. When you see the slab in the woods to the right, head in 200 feet to the base. Allow 60-90 minutes for the approach. It's a grind, but fortunately the old trail is still well maintained.
The climbs are listed from left to right.

Under the Weather II  5.8
1. Friction up a cleaned face to a groove (2" cam), then continue up easier face, sling a small tree and head up to below a steep headwall. Surmount it at a weakness (bolt, crux) and climb to a two bolt belay. 5.8  130'
2. Continue up and left over nicely featured rock past a couple bolts to another anchor just below the top. 5.4  110'     

Around the Bend  II  5.7
1. Surmount a tricky bulge, clip a bolt, then climb up easily on great rock to a steep wall with a flake. Over come the wall ( 1" cam here) and climb to a two bolt belay up and right.  140'  5.7
2. Climb straight up past a couple bolts to finish on perfect rock at an anchor below the top. Stunning views of the mountains- from the Bonds, Mt. Washington, the Hancocks, all the 4000'ers off the Kanc, to Loon Ski Area.  Great view into Scar Ridge and all the slabs making up the ice climb 'Long Way Home' and others. The foliage throughout the entire Pemi Wilderness was awesome.  100'  5.5

Last fall, we completed another beautiful climb- Follow the Sun, a two pitch 5.7 that starts on a white slab of perfect rock down and right 100'. Climb past some bolts, and belay on a tree ledge. Head up and left past a couple small overlaps, then straight up to a belay at the very top. A terrific moderate.

Carrying the drill and all the bolting gear up there each time really sucked but with just 2 light ropes, a light rack and a few draws or a bunch of slings, this place will offer anyone willing to do the hike a handful of really nice climbs and great views in the fall.

Jack will probably provide a link to his photos.



  • Guest
Re: Whaleback Slab
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2010, 10:36:05 AM »
Proving once again the awesome opportunities with a bit of a walk. Nice, Chuck.


  • Guest
Re: Whaleback Slab
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2010, 03:45:48 PM »
Pictures of the three climbs that Chuck and I have done on Whaleback are here:

The 2.5 mile approach isn't so bad if you're not bringing bolting gear. The start is easy then you come to a very steep section for about 1/2 mile but then it moderates and you get to recover for your climbs. However I do admit that my uphill muscles felt hung-over yesterday when I did my 14 mile mountain run.



  • Guest
Re: Whaleback Slab
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2010, 06:35:03 PM »
That looks really cool.  Great job fellas!


  • Guest
Re: Whaleback Slab
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2010, 07:35:35 PM »
went up there a couple weeekends back Chuck, only knowing about follow the sun route and we saw/were confused by the other routes at first, what they were rated, what was what figured out which one was follow the sun by the good description and bolt 20 feet upon a really nice slab, now we know! (about the other routes)

we had a blast, and the views were every bit as good as what you say, is a grind, harder than we thought, like doing a steep 4,000 footer and then climbing 2 full pitches at the top, but well worth it, I always need a good workout

Once again thanx to you and Jack, did Parkview slab earlier this year and great clean rock there too, keep finding em!