Author Topic: The Outlook  (Read 1129 times)

cwoodman

  • Guest
The Outlook
« on: October 20, 2010, 10:38:41 AM »
Yesterday Jack D and I climbed a stellar 3 pitch climb on this remote cliff across from North Bald Cap in the Mahoosics up near Berlin, NH.
Named 'Hand Over Hand' for the gorgeous hand to wide crack on the second pitch, the climb is reached from the top via the Success trail going up Mt. Success off the Success Pond Rd. about 6 miles east of Berlin.
From the bald summit, we did a 120' low angle rap and put in a two bolt anchor. From there, we dropped over a roof/overlap and an area of beautiful white rock with cracks and put in another anchor at about 170 feet. Then we rapped down to the woods in another 160 feet. Other than the two sets of anchors, we didn't place any other bolts. The fractured nature of the rock takes nuts and cams well.

Hand Over Hand   5.7
P1  Climb 100' up to a roof, pull it awkwardly (crux, 5.7) and continue up on nice rock to the first anchor.  5.7,  160'
P2  Head up and left and pop onto a beautiful white slab. Jam up an absolutely gorgeous crack which starts at an inch and widens to off width as it curves right under the overlap. Broken cracks in blocks lead past a steeper headwall, the climb a small white dike to lower angle rock and the anchor.  5.6,   170'     
P3  Scramble up to top.   5.0   120'

Obviously, this cliff is big and visible from Bald Cap, so no doubt other folks like Paul Cormier have probably been to the top of it and climbed on it, but we saw no signs of any previous activity where we were. I'll email him sometime and ask him about it.

This climb was a blast. The hike up is only 2 miles- pretty moderate, and the views from the top are stupendous. We were looking out over North Bald Cap with the snowy Presidential Range rising behind, as well as the entire North Country of NH. A really terrific day.
Chuck
For anyone interested, coming in for two days and doing October Sundae on Bald Cap one day and Hand Over Hand the second would be great fun. There is a terrific free camping spot at the Success trailhead.


 

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2511
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2010, 10:43:00 AM »
This sounds awesome!
Hard to find trad routes these days.  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

  • Guest
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2010, 10:47:12 AM »
Shit Chuck- a 5.7 roof ! Whatdya think this is - POOH  ;D

Jack_Dorsey

  • Guest
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2010, 11:44:07 AM »

cwoodman

  • Guest
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2010, 12:15:45 PM »
hey John, this ain't Cathedral-  About the only real roof I can climb these days is the one on my house to clean the snow off.

strandman

  • Guest
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2010, 01:55:16 PM »
Doing better than me Chuck.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8104
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2010, 02:53:47 PM »
very very nice guys. what a beautiful location. that shot of N Bald Cap with the presi's in the background is fantastic.
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

DWT

  • Guest
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2010, 09:19:13 PM »
Looks fun!

Offline bubbalee

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 46
Re: The Outlook
« Reply #8 on: November 25, 2010, 12:30:48 PM »
chuck it might be quicker to access the bottom of the cliff by parking at the bald cap area and hiking up