Author Topic: CLimbing Mag  (Read 623 times)

Offline joe1234

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CLimbing Mag
« on: February 02, 2004, 05:26:41 PM »
See the new issue?
CATHEDRAL LEDGE BEST TRAD CRAG IN THE EAST
mmmm...perhaps?

Offline Admin Al

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2004, 06:10:34 PM »
did you also notice that there was NO REAL MENTION of the bolting controversy or the meetings that went all all summer? pretty pitiful! at least Alison Osius of Rock & Ice did an editorial about it.

Al
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Offline joe1234

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2004, 11:49:40 AM »
guess they mentioned Paul Ross though, correct me if i'm wrong, but he placed the first Thin Air bolt.  No REAL mention of the modern issue however.
I would have liked to seenm more on the recent debate and perhaps a little more focus on the community and its divisions rather than just "soft iron" routes.
great pictures regardless  
« Last Edit: February 03, 2004, 11:50:19 AM by joe1234 »

Offline slobmonster

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2004, 01:11:38 PM »
I thought the piece was extremely well-written, and handled our somewhat sordid acitivities of last summer and fall with a certain deference.  Maybe our bolt war isn't a national issue?
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2004, 07:53:09 PM »
well when you write about an area, you might want to write about the things that are important. I think that our efforts to preserve it might be considered that.

Al
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finkelsteinshitkid

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2004, 06:33:03 AM »
Cathedral is awesome on beer.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2004, 05:42:01 PM »
I thought it was pretty cool right up to the closeing paragraph when they claimed they were the only ones there on a sunny day. Maby they got lost? could have been at woodchuck ledge ???

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2004, 05:48:29 PM »
One thing to keep in mind is that glossy mags need to come up with a new headline for every issue. there is only so many ways you can twist the climbing experience. I think Cathedral is awsom< but would say that it is actualy in a 3 way tie with seneca and the gunks for best trad crag in the east. The sad fact is that despite the crouds, the gunks pretty much kicks butt for the sheer volume of stellar trad climbs in one area. I still prefer cathedral and seneca for best atmosphere and vibe 8)

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2004, 08:18:24 PM »
Gunks is best trad crag for beginner's and intermediates, Cathdral best for hardmen (and women).  I would love to spend more time down there where there are so many routes I could onsight.  It's a challenge here when you feel you are a 5.9 trad-leader.  

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2004, 04:07:05 AM »
Gunks have hundreds of hard climbs as well. Still prefer cathedral.

Offline rustyrat

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2004, 06:57:35 AM »
The gunks are certainly awesome no doubt about it - but the Prow, The Bridge of K, Pendulum, etc, etc, no where on the east coast is there such a high concentration of totally superb multipitch thought provoking, grunt making, knee scraping, kick ass routes, all on such perfect rock.

I would have to say that in the past few years I've been to Cathedral a number of times when the cliff has been rather empty even on a perfect day. Sure ant lines exsist on Thin Air, Recompense, Fun House and the North End, but that still leave the very best of Cathedral wide open. Thank you Rumney for eating up the masses.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2004, 08:54:34 AM »
I love the Gunks and like Rumney as well. that said, I choose to move up here to North Conway for exactly the reasons that RustyRat brought up. there is no place that I know of where I can have all these great types of climbing, year around. Cathedral Ledge, and the Valley in general, have enough stuff to do that it will keep me busy for many years. and if you can climb mid-week you can almost always get on the route of your choice with pretty much no waiting.

a number of folks have brought up how the traffic has seemingly come down over the past couple of years. we've all attributed it to the increased popularity of Rumney. I have absolutely no problem with that. <grin>

Al
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Offline joe1234

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2004, 12:12:54 PM »
Just a thought in terms of traffic.  I spend more time at the gunks b/c of where I live and have noticed a marked decline in traffic there as well.  I can't really quantify it but it just "feels" more empty.  Surely gunkies aren't commuting to Rumney as well.  Where have they gone?
Despite my affiliation with the gunks by geographic default I would have to say I prefer Cathedral quite a bit more.  Granite is where it is at.  The quality of the rock is amazing and granite lines are just so esthetic.  

Offline rustyrat

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Re: CLimbing Mag
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2004, 01:22:23 PM »
They've all run to the grotto's to go bouldering. Though on the other hand, Rumney pulls a LOT of people from a very wide area, plenty of NYC dudes and dudettes there on a weekend. There such a quiet crowd. ;D