the older I get the more I like those shiny bolts.
I hear ya ...
Get either the hardcopy guide by Ray Ellington or the electronic iPad/iPhone version by same.
Also redriverclimbing.com is sometimes useful.
My fav crag at RRG at the moment is Drive-By. Lots of good stuff, Breakfast Burrito and Whipstocking both highly recommended.
Drive-By is in PMRP which is my favorite region at The Red for highest concentration of quality routes.
Muir Valley might be the most user friendly crag but no dogs are allowed in it and is privately owned. It has many quality routes but they are scattered among the crags. Hiking between crags is easy and well sign posted. We usually hit two or three crags in a day at Muir.
Of the older crags, my fav is Roadside (trad & sport) but it can get very crowded. Avoid going there on weekends if you can.
There are quality routes to be found at almost every crag so just have fun!!
Let us know how the trip goes.