Author Topic: Climber lowered off end of rope  (Read 5309 times)

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #45 on: March 21, 2011, 09:05:20 AM »
As ropes have gotten thinner and lighter the standard length has gradually increased. You must know this since you've been climbing longer than I've been alive. It seems like we would still be climbing on 150' ropes or even shorter if your "rule" was applied.

I also don't like the idea of marking the anchors since if somebody removes the mark a party coming after might make the reaonable assumption (and they would still be to blame if they decked imo) that a long rope isn't needed.

The list of accidents can end right now if we all take the decision tie in or otherwise close the system and make sure all of our climbing partners are doing the same. We don't even have to haul along anything extra to accomplish that.

 

- edit for grammar 
« Last Edit: March 21, 2011, 09:25:50 AM by JBrochu »
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Offline strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #46 on: March 21, 2011, 09:43:03 AM »
 How about this idea- anchors should be placed in a logical location. How far up a section of rock that may be doesn't matter. I have done quite a few f/a's and have never, not once, thought about pitch length except when running out of rope.


having climbed in the City with a 50m line  AND a tag line for longer pitches w/o problems, I never felt compelled to diss any f/a parties.

After having climbed for "decades" as Myriam states, don't you get a bit of a feel for distance???

Has anyone here ever placed blame on the f/a team for anchors ? Except for bad bolts ?

In ten years when 100m pitches are the norm, what will we do.....................

Online frik

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #47 on: March 21, 2011, 10:10:35 AM »
I think we can all agree that the Vulgarians are to blame.
If they hadn't interfered, and had just let the AMC have their way, this sort of thing would have never happened.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #48 on: March 21, 2011, 11:53:53 AM »
In ten years when 100m pitches are the norm, what will we do.....................
You nailed this one, John.  Even old dogs need to learn new tricks in this sport of ours.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline OldEric

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #49 on: March 21, 2011, 12:02:14 PM »
In ten years when 100m pitches are the norm, what will we do.....................
You nailed this one, John.  Even old dogs need to learn new tricks in this sport of ours.


I'm letting my son carry the rope - that's my strategy and I am sticking to it.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #50 on: March 21, 2011, 03:38:41 PM »
Quote
[I'm letting my son carry the rope - that's my strategy and I am sticking to it.

and I'm assuming you won't let him lower you off the end of it! [wry grin]
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Offline strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #51 on: March 21, 2011, 07:35:34 PM »
I'm trying to be nice, really..... but not for long.

I got a 30m rope frombitd that I used at the Quarries... anyone   :o

DLottmann

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #52 on: March 23, 2011, 10:40:04 PM »
It seems to me to be an act of common decency to mark such anchors as a warning to those who might not be appropriately equipped, and it would be nice if the climbing world could decide on something simple but universally recognized.  Surely if sport climbers can hang a red tag on their projects as some sort of "keep off" sign, and trad climbers can mark a dangerous loose block with a chalked "X,"  the rest of the world could agree on something simple for extra-high anchors.  A little loop of red cord perhaps?  Maybe a plastic cable tie?  A red tag with a decent purpose?  Who has a practical idea?

"who might not be appropriately equipped"

How about a little brass plaque at the base of each route stating the length of the pitch, what gear is essential to keep it a "G" rated climb, where the crux move is, and the contact info of the FA party in case you disagree with the plaque.

Sorry for the overly sarcastic response, but this is climbing. We do not need more "signs". As has been said, we need self-sufficency and responsibility.

"Closing the system" is so ridiculously easy it should be as common as making sure your harness is on correctly. That is the simple, effective fix. We do not need to come up with "route markings" to add yet another way to pay less attention to what we are doing.

Offline hangdogger

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #53 on: March 24, 2011, 07:20:22 AM »
It seems to me to be an act of common decency to mark such anchors as a warning to those who might not be appropriately equipped, and it would be nice if the climbing world could decide on something simple but universally recognized.  Surely if sport climbers can hang a red tag on their projects as some sort of "keep off" sign, and trad climbers can mark a dangerous loose block with a chalked "X,"  the rest of the world could agree on something simple for extra-high anchors.  A little loop of red cord perhaps?  Maybe a plastic cable tie?  A red tag with a decent purpose?  Who has a practical idea?

"who might not be appropriately equipped"

How about a little brass plaque at the base of each route stating the length of the pitch, what gear is essential to keep it a "G" rated climb, where the crux move is, and the contact info of the FA party in case you disagree with the plaque.

Sorry for the overly sarcastic response, but this is climbing. We do not need more "signs". As has been said, we need self-sufficency and responsibility.

"Closing the system" is so ridiculously easy it should be as common as making sure your harness is on correctly. That is the simple, effective fix. We do not need to come up with "route markings" to add yet another way to pay less attention to what we are doing.
 
That is it in a nutshell

Offline OldEric

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #54 on: March 24, 2011, 10:57:01 AM »
It seems to me to be an act of common decency to mark such anchors as a warning to those who might not be appropriately equipped, and it would be nice if the climbing world could decide on something simple but universally recognized.  Surely if sport climbers can hang a red tag on their projects as some sort of "keep off" sign, and trad climbers can mark a dangerous loose block with a chalked "X,"  the rest of the world could agree on something simple for extra-high anchors.  A little loop of red cord perhaps?  Maybe a plastic cable tie?  A red tag with a decent purpose?  Who has a practical idea?

"who might not be appropriately equipped"

How about a little brass plaque at the base of each route stating the length of the pitch, what gear is essential to keep it a "G" rated climb, where the crux move is, and the contact info of the FA party in case you disagree with the plaque.

Sorry for the overly sarcastic response, but this is climbing. We do not need more "signs". As has been said, we need self-sufficency and responsibility.

"Closing the system" is so ridiculously easy it should be as common as making sure your harness is on correctly. That is the simple, effective fix. We do not need to come up with "route markings" to add yet another way to pay less attention to what we are doing.

You may think you are being cleverly witty with what you think are your over the top solutions - but do you know that everything you suggested plus lots more is standard practice in many areas of the world?  Many places of the world where they climb far harder on the average than around here. This American attitude of - "we're manly self sufficient tough guys who can take care of our-selves" is all fine and good and certainly has it's place - its nice to keep alive the traditions of our sport.  I am not in favor of the universal sanitizing and dumbing down of climbing as is common now a days.  But burying your head and not keeping an open mind and not being aware of world wide trends - whether you agree with them or not - is just setting you up for failure.

Offline hangdogger

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #55 on: March 24, 2011, 07:07:57 PM »
uh, what? ???

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #56 on: March 24, 2011, 08:17:44 PM »
uh, what? ???

That's easy. When burying your head, you make an ass of your self.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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DLottmann

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #57 on: March 24, 2011, 09:24:01 PM »
 ??? ??? ???

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #58 on: March 24, 2011, 09:49:49 PM »
Can someone please tell me why how hard people climb in certain parts of the world excuses them from apparantly having really sucky ideas when it comes to managing their crags...?  ???
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #59 on: March 24, 2011, 10:03:35 PM »
American


French


or Indian


Which is better?
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson