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Author Topic: Climber lowered off end of rope  (Read 2477 times)

DMan

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Climber lowered off end of rope
« on: March 14, 2011, 12:02:58 PM »
I just came across this. Please "close the system" EVERY time you climb.

http://myrbou.blogspot.com/2011/02/and-then-he-fell.html

The very experienced victim instructing to leave the system open to let twists work out is unfounded. A small "stopper know", i.e. two half-hitches, will still allow any twists to work out of the rope.

It's always some basic fundamental that we over-look after so many years of climbing.

The non-injured victim's feeling of anger and PTSD is understandable given the emotional trauma of the event, but directing it at the anchor placement is not appropriate.

NEVER assume your rope is long enough.
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strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2011, 06:39:15 PM »
UM......

TIE IN OR TIE A FUCKING KNOT IN THE END .

It doesn't matter if you are "experienced or not, JUST FUCKING DO IT.
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old_school

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2011, 06:44:13 PM »
Quote from: strandman on March 14, 2011, 06:39:15 PM
UM......

TIE IN OR TIE A FUCKING KNOT IN THE END .

It doesn't matter if you are "experienced or not, JUST FUCKING DO IT.

Don't beat around the bush John...just tell it like it is for once would you?  ;D
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2011, 07:03:44 PM »
I'll try to be more clear in the future.

Fucking idiots

if you are that goddamn stupid then maybe golf would be better-asshole

It's just so basic, I don't know , maybe it's time to retire    ::)

I can't even conceive of dropping someone, never. Unless they are an asshole, then.....
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DWT

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2011, 07:04:12 PM »
The thought of dropping a partner scares me more than falling.  At least he lived.
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strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2011, 07:10:05 PM »
I just poured myself a beer-

I know a "very experienced" NH guide who I would not trust to wash my fucking van. 30 years and he doesn't know shit. I gave him shit back in the early 80's and he still didn't learn.

EX- give a beginner some slack so they learn about falling

DIE

I'm not shittin'- this was a real conversation
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old_school

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2011, 07:14:01 PM »
Quote from: strandman on March 14, 2011, 07:10:05 PM

EX- give a beginner some slack so they learn about falling

I let my clients rap off the end so they learn how it feels to hit rocks from 45'. It's a good lesson I think... ::)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2011, 07:46:31 PM »
BUT- do they return as clients ?

Since I'm geared up already;

I saw a chick drop another chick to the ground one time at Indian Creek. My standard comment

What the fuck is wrong with you ?

It's OK , I was thinking about some other climb and she she's OK

" you chicks would have a better hobby with hookin'"

You don't have to pay attention and you get $$$$$
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old_school

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2011, 07:49:14 PM »
In all honesty here,
Thanks for posting DMan. Sometimes it is easy to get complacent and this just isn't the game to do that in. As John said..take the two seconds it takes and put a knot in the end of the rope...simple as that.  ;) 
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

DWT

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2011, 07:56:32 PM »
Quote from: strandman on March 14, 2011, 07:10:05 PM
I just poured myself a beer-

I know a "very experienced" NH guide who I would not trust to wash my fucking van. 30 years and he doesn't know shit. I gave him shit back in the early 80's and he still didn't learn.



Who?
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strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2011, 08:00:23 PM »
He would lose his jobfor sure.

It wasn't;

al comeau
kurt winkler
ed webster
paul ross
jimmie dunn
bayard russel


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DWT

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2011, 08:03:18 PM »
 ;D
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sneoh

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2011, 08:05:19 PM »

I ask this question with no hint of disrespect or any attempt at it, did Duval rap off his rope too?
I never had the good fortune of making his acquaintance but I know many who knew Paul well and regarded him with respect and affection.

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

mopowers

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2011, 08:14:59 PM »
Quote
It wasn't;

al comeau
kurt winkler
ed webster
paul ross
jimmie dunn
bayard russel

 Jeez, Bayard looks good for his age.
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strandman

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Re: Climber lowered off end of rope
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2011, 08:15:13 PM »
No diss- I met paul in '77.

Even so , i can make a case, even for friends. Yuo fuck, you fuck up


How do I put it?  He fucked up.

Now rappin off with 1 rope means youneed to find the middle ?

Maybe I'm just being asshole, i don't know. I have had partners that have died-

rappin' off a tree in Valdez and having it fail  - both very experienced and safe
 walking across the road at Cathedral and getting hit by a car after flashing Possessed

I'm still alive 'cause my main partners and I value a goood belay. It's not negotiable...... ever.

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