Author Topic: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.  (Read 3651 times)

Offline bag11s

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OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« on: March 22, 2011, 08:23:23 PM »
An alcohol induced ramble.
It starts out dumb, and finishes dumber, but so what, I have no shame.
After becoming infatuated with climbing and doing some bouldering and top-roping in MA to begin with, back in 1988, and at age 33, and on a boiling day, I led my first NH route- Funhouse, which seemed not- too- bad, and then moved up the steep tree-slope ledge plumb to the exact start of Retaliation, where I naively looked up, and said ďok, that looks cool, letís do thatĒ.  After an effort of severe destruction, I sat in the window after its crux, in an exquisite hyperventilation state, desperately contemplating what deep resources I might call on next to finish it. I think the experience of succeeding on those particular individual moves of that sustained bastard of a route, each of which actually probably was so mortally important, has led me to insanely enjoy more than twenty- two years of go-for- broke climbing.
Not being the most talented, or hard working, or naturally endowed, or even the best learner, I still have deep, deep fun every time I go climbing. From the fun ranking enjoyment perspective, I doubt that anyone tops the scale that I operate on. I do not think that in all this time I have ever really criticized any crag or area that I have been to. From the dumbest choss of a railroad-cut to classic wall climbs in the Verdon Gorge, I have loved every bit of climbing, and in every area. I have almost no standards and no shame- as long as Iím climbing something thatís hard for me, I am loviní it.
So, now I will be 56 this year. In the gym I see V8 and way up easily crushed every day by multiple kids and 20 somethings, no problem (as I whittle away intermittently on v6-7). So ok, the gameís on- Climbers from my generation: letís get with the program. Iíve seen the video of Edu Marinís father executing super physical 5.14 at age 58, and thatís some wild shit. Letís see some discipline, some dieting, and see some of you old duffers whip yourselves into shape and get somewhere (anywhere) in the hard before me. At least, letís see you get there before me- as I operate with (likely) at least as many, and probably more handicaps than you.

Offline perswig

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2011, 09:37:34 PM »
I like it.

44 here, started late, never will climb hard but feel I've gotten as far as I'm gonna without committing to 'train' in same fashion.
This season I've got to decide if I stay in place and enjoy this level or actually WORK on improving.

Possibly my favorite part of The Sharp End is Hank Caylor giving props to the young Turks pushing .13+ R/X, on gear.  One badass admiring other badasses.  There's clearly that level of talent around here.

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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline sneoh

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2011, 12:01:46 AM »
Letís see some discipline, some dieting, and see some of you old duffers whip yourselves into shape and get somewhere (anywhere) in the hard before me. At least, letís see you get there before me- as I operate with (likely) at least as many, and probably more handicaps than you.
I will be 50 this year.  I've been climbing since I was 29.  Hit my peak back in 1996 but I have set some good goals for myself this year.  Had a sloppy training session tonight at an overcrowded, chalk-filled gym.  Felt kind of down on myself until I read your post, bags.  It picked me right up.  Thanks.  I have a busted wrist and at least two bad fingers but it is no excuse.  I will be back in the gym this weekend with the hope of being on the sharp-end outdoors very soon.  Train on, work hard, stay away from injuries, and climb safe!

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2011, 06:32:35 AM »
Screw that work out crap! I am still in ice climbing mode where it's Ok to be fat ;D

Offline LarryDavid

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2011, 08:22:01 AM »
What is with that? Being new to this i have noticed quite a few fatties out climbing ice. Never expected that!

DLottmann

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2011, 08:59:47 AM »
What is with that? Being new to this i have noticed quite a few fatties out climbing ice. Never expected that!

While I am not fat (could lose ten pounds), I am not good at crimping small holds, therefore I find ice climbing harder routes easier than harder rock routes, i.e. Grade 4+ feels easier to me than 5.10 most the time.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2011, 09:25:52 AM »
63  here... the hands. elbows & sometimes back certainly aren't what they used to be. and I don't think training hard would be a good thing for me, considering how much I use my hands & wrists for all kinds of things other than climbing. that said, I think that I climb fairly hard, WI 5+ and 5.10, not because I am in such great shape. it's really about focus. if you can really focus on what you are doing and block out the inherent fear factor, you can do pretty darn well in this sport.

LarryDavid:

1) the fat is necessary to keep you warm in winter
2) what you may think is fat can be lots of layers of clothes
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Offline LarryDavid

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2011, 09:54:48 AM »
Haha so you are saying all 140 lbs of me looks fat all done up in my gear?

I am sure by 63 i will def have an extra 10 lbs or so on me also,  prob more like a solid 15-20 as i like to run about 5lbs light. I am talking about the guys that are like 25-55 and clearly 15-20 lbs overweight.

Just kinda shocking to me as imo alpine adventures burn a shit ton of calories.



63  here... the hands. elbows & sometimes back certainly aren't what they used to be. and I don't think training hard would be a good thing for me, considering how much I use my hands & wrists for all kinds of things other than climbing. that said, I think that I climb fairly hard, WI 5+ and 5.10, not because I am in such great shape. it's really about focus. if you can really focus on what you are doing and block out the inherent fear factor, you can do pretty darn well in this sport.

LarryDavid:

1) the fat is necessary to keep you warm in winter
2) what you may think is fat can be lots of layers of clothes


Offline strandman

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2011, 10:42:34 AM »
Now 51 and started climbing at 17. The extra weight helps your feet stick better- trust me.  Lead drilling will get you in shape, for what I don't know. It also will hammer your toes, screw up your wrists and do who knows what to the elbows.
But so what ?

"This is the life we have chosen"- Michael Corleone

Offline OldEric

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2011, 10:52:23 AM »
61 here.  With a long time bum ankle and a newly developed bum finger.  Just want to keep plugging away.  It would be nice to improve - climbing that elusive 13 would be my goal - might happen if I searched for just the right one - I know several people my age who typically are no better then me and have done that - but that isn't what motivates me.  There are so many places I haven't been, mountains I haven't climbed, routes within my current abilities all over the world that I haven't seen - getting on some of them is what I want to do.  Rather then breaking myself training with little girls on v-xx on plastic.

Regarding fat ice climbers - duh.  It's insulation.  Winter days are short and nights (in the pub) are long.  With modern tools/techniques pure ice isn't that hard.  Conditions might make it dangerous and scary as hell but it's not that strenuous.  The little girls pulling plastic are working way harder.

Offline Jeff

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2011, 01:14:50 PM »
Since George Hurley isn't a regular visitor to this site, are my 67+ years the most? This spring begins my 46th year on rock and I'm still getting after it at a modest level, with 2 titanium hips and LOTS of ankle ligament damage. "The best climber is the one who is having the most fun", I believe was immortalized by Alex Lowe-- I'm still trying to be the best! And I think I'll have a pint of Guinness soon!

DGoguen

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2011, 02:55:09 PM »
Turned 50 a few months ago and received a complimentary AARP card in the mail. I wonder if they really know what that does to people.
Just finished up my 30th ice season. The usual aches, pale in comparison, to replacement parts. I wouldn't say thin but adequately "corn fed".
I gotta say, with all the modern ice gear factored in, I still find it very attention getting and hard enough.
Looking forward to many years of beautiful climbing if not standard setting, or maintaining for that matter.

Offline strandman

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2011, 06:39:00 PM »
you guys are hard- I gave up ice in'81

Steve a is in the ballpark at 64 ? Paul Ross i think is 74 and still doing f/a's

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2011, 10:15:07 PM »
One thing I learned from all my karate crapola and climbing shenanigins back when i actually cared how hard it was is that training hard just wears things out...   ???

Offline LarryDavid

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2011, 10:33:10 PM »
I will second that and i am only 33. I have been very very active though my whole life and on more than one occasion trained 30 plus hours a week for years on end with only a couple weeks rest a year. My body is def starting to show glimmers of what is to come.

One thing I learned from all my karate crapola and climbing shenanigins back when i actually cared how hard it was is that training hard just wears things out...   ???