Author Topic: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.  (Read 3650 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #15 on: March 24, 2011, 06:16:16 AM »
I think the best thing for me at my age is some kind of low impact cardio and either tai Chi or yoga for flexability.  I am getting out XC sking quite a bit this winter but slacking on the other stuff...  ::)

Offline bag11s

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #16 on: March 24, 2011, 08:17:30 AM »
Sounds like you were both over-training, not training.

Offline sneoh

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #17 on: March 24, 2011, 10:13:29 AM »
IMHO, once you're past 30 or so in age, you've got to be mindful of the possibility of over-training and be sure to treat training injuries properly and with care.  I speak of this from personal experience.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline PG

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2011, 10:03:47 AM »
   I've been climbing rock for the past 17 yrs. and ice for the past 10 seasons. I just turned 59 last week. I climb something at least once a week. Although I climb at modest grades I still enjoy climbing. It's not the grades but about the total experience. You all know what I'm talking about. It's the planning to go out, the anticipation of winter, the beginning of rock season, the drive up north. The freinds that you climb with and the people you meet while climbing. The beers back at the car after climbing or at the pub at the end of the day. The drive home and even unpacking at home. The adventure of the climb, the veiws, the feel of the rock under my finger tips. The ice formations created be nature which is something I marvel at everytime I go out. This whole experience is something to savor. I think it's the friendships if only while climbing is something so special. Being around climbers is like a drug for me.
   Peole tell me to take pics while out there but the pics don't tell the story. Once we were coming off the Beast at Kinsman and I remember rapping off. I stopped at the top of the pillar and looked over my shoulder and saw the late afternoon alpenglow on the other side of the notch. The sound of a howling coyote in the valley below. Try to capture that in a pic ?  I will take that memory with me forever.
   I've been teaching a rock climbing program at a local YMCA for the past 2.5 years. My primary students are at the age of between 6 and 12 yrs old. I've made little signs that I hung up with my favorite Alex Lowes qoute, " The Best Climber....." . This is the first thing I stress in the clases. We are here to have fun. I also have a great group of teens, young adults and older people like myself down there. This is such a rewarding experience. Much better than the 35 year career in a coperate sales enviroment.
   This year (and every year for the past 5 yrs. ) I hope to lead my first 5.11 at Rumney. This year I've been working out just a little harded than usual. We'll see.
   Just remember in the words of Warren Miller,  " Growing old is manditory, but growing up is optional "  One option I refuse to accept.     

Offline bag11s

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #19 on: March 27, 2011, 10:28:11 AM »
Nice post.

Offline LarryDavid

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2011, 02:12:55 PM »
Nice response, you def hit the nail on the head as to why i climb. I would imagine most of us climb for exactly the reasons you stated? You put something into words i often think and feel on the ride home from any day in the mountains but never end up putting in words or speaking.

Only thing i will add to the experience you so eloquently describe is that a big piece of what you describe for me also comes from just staying in the best shape i can at all times. For me things are most fun when i know i am getting every ounce outa my body that is  has to offer and that i couldn't do much better as i have prepared as best i can both physically and mentally. For years i had to be very careful to not over train as i was competing and had to make sure i was in race shape most of the time, not over trained not under trained. I enjoyed what i was doing but it became a purely function kinda thing. If i wanted to go out and hammer myself into the ground i may not be able to that day and might have to take it easy and wait for another day.

These days i if i feel like burning the candle at both ends i have nothing to hold me back and it feels awesome!! My point is if i am not doing my personal best and i know it i often can not enjoy and open myself up to enjoy all the other things you speak of. I would get bored with just a casual day climbing rather quickly i think. What i am saying is for me and i would imagine many many other the feeling you describe and joy you speak of in such a clear way comes would not be there for me if i was just out for a casual day climbing and not always trying to progress.

Anyway thats my rant, Its Sunday!

At this point a bit older i would like to think i could just recreate and over train myself into the ground as i wish seven days a week. However my body is now just starting to show a bit of age. These days it seems i have to be careful to not over train just to avoid injury so i can get out and be active every day and on a ongoing basis at my will.



 
   I've been climbing rock for the past 17 yrs. and ice for the past 10 seasons. I just turned 59 last week. I climb something at least once a week. Although I climb at modest grades I still enjoy climbing. It's not the grades but about the total experience. You all know what I'm talking about. It's the planning to go out, the anticipation of winter, the beginning of rock season, the drive up north. The freinds that you climb with and the people you meet while climbing. The beers back at the car after climbing or at the pub at the end of the day. The drive home and even unpacking at home. The adventure of the climb, the veiws, the feel of the rock under my finger tips. The ice formations created be nature which is something I marvel at everytime I go out. This whole experience is something to savor. I think it's the friendships if only while climbing is something so special. Being around climbers is like a drug for me.
   Peole tell me to take pics while out there but the pics don't tell the story. Once we were coming off the Beast at Kinsman and I remember rapping off. I stopped at the top of the pillar and looked over my shoulder and saw the late afternoon alpenglow on the other side of the notch. The sound of a howling coyote in the valley below. Try to capture that in a pic ?  I will take that memory with me forever.
   I've been teaching a rock climbing program at a local YMCA for the past 2.5 years. My primary students are at the age of between 6 and 12 yrs old. I've made little signs that I hung up with my favorite Alex Lowes qoute, " The Best Climber....." . This is the first thing I stress in the clases. We are here to have fun. I also have a great group of teens, young adults and older people like myself down there. This is such a rewarding experience. Much better than the 35 year career in a coperate sales enviroment.
   This year (and every year for the past 5 yrs. ) I hope to lead my first 5.11 at Rumney. This year I've been working out just a little harded than usual. We'll see.
   Just remember in the words of Warren Miller,  " Growing old is manditory, but growing up is optional "  One option I refuse to accept.     

Offline sneoh

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #21 on: March 27, 2011, 06:49:51 PM »
   This year (and every year for the past 5 yrs. ) I hope to lead my first 5.11 at Rumney. This year I've been working out just a little harded than usual. We'll see. 

Yes, indeed a nice post, PG.  Good luck and best wishes on your goal.  Shoot me a PM if you are have yet to decide which route at Rumney is a good candidate to be your first 5.11 lead.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline PG

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2011, 08:12:30 PM »
Thanks sneoh, you get it. The route at Rumney is at the Tripple Corners and called "The Man with Hueco in His Tights"  5.11a. I understand that it's the easiest 5.11 at Rumney. About 6 years ago I could'nt get off the ground. Since then I've climbed up to 5.10d. I feel stronger than ever and my head has been clearer. It must have something to do with dropping ou tof the rat race 3 years ago. This winter I climbed more grade 5 ice ( on TR ) then any previous ice season. Funny thing is that they didn't seem that hard. I guess I'm learning how to climb after these years. Or maybe I'm taking some of the advice I've been giving out.  I think it also may be that at the YMCA I have the chance to do a lot of dry tooling up the wall. I've set up 4 routes with wood holds that I made that will accept my pick tools. We have a linkup route that will give you about 70 + ft of dry tooling. Also I've been able to retrofix the tools so that you can dry tool directly off the plastic holds. Either way I am having the time of my life and I'm enjoying climbing like I never experienced before. Go figure.

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2011, 08:43:58 PM »
Man with a Hueco is a good choice for first .11..     Debbie Does CPR  or  3 easy pieces    are other good choices. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline sneoh

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #24 on: March 27, 2011, 09:09:17 PM »
It sounds like you are having a great time, PG.  Good for you.  Makes me feel good to read stuff like that.

Jake (welcome back) is right.  And I will throw in Tropicana, P1.
For me, TEP is the easiest of the three Jake listed.  Strangely, Debbie is the hardest for some reason, but that's for another time ......

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline OldEric

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2011, 09:51:34 PM »
Man with a Hueco is a good choice for first .11..     Debbie Does CPR  or  3 easy pieces    are other good choices. 

Jake beat me to it.  That's what I get for actually going out climbing this PM.  Debbie is SO EASY.

Offline jammer

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2011, 10:28:57 PM »
Man with a Hueco is a good choice for first .11..     Debbie Does CPR  or  3 easy pieces    are other good choices. 

Jake, what was that 11 you hauled me up?  Tricky sequence, but outside the crux, it was nice.  As for age, turning 58 this year and raring to go for some more!

Offline strandman

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #27 on: March 28, 2011, 09:23:51 AM »
   This year (and every year for the past 5 yrs. ) I hope to lead my first 5.11 at Rumney. This year I've been working out just a little harded than usual. We'll see. 

Yes, indeed a nice post, PG.  Good luck and best wishes on your goal.  Shoot me a PM if you are have yet to decide which route at Rumney is a good candidate to be your first 5.11 lead.


YO- PG, if you want to do your first 11 that's NOT at Rumney, lemme know. I have a few suggestions

Offline bag11s

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #28 on: March 28, 2011, 09:34:42 AM »
PG- a different kind of option at Rumney thats not a steep boulder problem route, is Cannery Row up at Yellow Knife- long techy off vertical face climbing with a few good rests and a short crimpy crux near the end; a very nice pitch. It's graded between 10d and 11b depending on who you ask, but to me it seemed pretty easy in the grade.

Offline sneoh

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Re: OK, Dumb Idea, but let's see it.
« Reply #29 on: March 28, 2011, 09:48:54 AM »
YO- PG, if you want to do your first 11 that's NOT at Rumney, lemme know. I have a few suggestions

PG, the last thing you want to do here is listen to John! :):):)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ