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Author Topic: Durability of the metolius master CAM  (Read 1556 times)

rcongo

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Durability of the metolius master CAM
« on: March 23, 2011, 11:18:08 AM »

Hey, 

I am looking for some opinions on the metolius master cam.  Is it durable? Seems well built but I am still not convinced and never used one in actual rock yet.   

Thanks,

Ross
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strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2011, 11:22:57 AM »

Not sure about the Masters, but I gottcu's from the 80's that still function very well.
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MAmedic

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2011, 10:17:48 PM »

My partner has been using these now for three years.  He has had to replace the trigger lines twice.  The spectra cord they use is crap and doesn't withstand abrasion.  Get some aliens Oh wait...

In the absence of aliens I have tried the DMM cams with success.  I have their 3CUs but am eyeing the new Dragon cams.  They have fixed the durability problems on the larger ones.  To the best of my knowledge the small sized were not recalled. Good luck

Nick D
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Nick D

strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2011, 11:55:31 AM »

Wired Bliss ?
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slink

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2011, 01:58:08 AM »

 Cut the spectra cord off and use a biner and long runner. This is trad climbing where long runners rule not sport with a quickdraw on everything. I have old Metolious TCUs 20+ years old. I had them rewired and checked by metolious a few years ago and they look new.Metolious service was awsome. I have aliens and camalots also that are equally good and I hardly ever clip the slings that are attached. Have fun and climb safe
 Jim
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Climber57r

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2011, 11:19:19 PM »

very impressed w/ the resling/rewire from metolius. The master cam...tried 1 last season...not enough to judge but it placed well. Now for those old BD's I have...they finally got a comment from a new climber that they were ancient...lol. C'Mon...there not rigid.. ::)
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strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2011, 12:51:12 PM »

very impressed w/ the resling/rewire from metolius. The master cam...tried 1 last season...not enough to judge but it placed well. Now for those old BD's I have...they finally got a comment from a new climber that they were ancient...lol. C'Mon...there not rigid.. ::)

Dude, I got over 20 rigid Friends and still think they are the best cams ever. A couple from '80 are a bit beat though.... ;)
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Climber57r

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2011, 12:42:52 AM »

Yup none of the rigid...still see plenty of them @ IME though...Did you resling them after a while? I was questioning using cord or sending them out...prob. needs to be done by now..
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Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

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strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2011, 12:32:25 PM »

Ragged still does slings as well as wired bliss. i re do about every 5 years or so
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JakeDatc

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2011, 07:22:51 PM »

Cut the spectra cord off and use a biner and long runner. This is trad climbing where long runners rule not sport with a quickdraw on everything. I have old Metolious TCUs 20+ years old. I had them rewired and checked by metolious a few years ago and they look new.Metolious service was awsome. I have aliens and camalots also that are equally good and I hardly ever clip the slings that are attached. Have fun and climb safe
 Jim

I think he is talking about the little trigger cords  not the sling loop. 

C4's are a few Kn  weaker if you attach a biner to the loop instead of the sling.  I'm guessing this is true for most cams with a wire loop. 
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strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2011, 07:51:09 PM »

Guess i'm old- i almost never attach a QD to a cam.The sling is good for most applications
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JakeDatc

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2011, 08:14:08 PM »

meaning you just clip the rope to the short sling?    all fine and good if your route goes straight up.   that doesn't fly at the gunks. 
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strandman

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2011, 08:20:22 PM »

Ya- maybe 90% of my leading was NH, Indian creek and the valley so pretty much up. 20 pitches in the Gunks total, almost all at Skytop.
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JakeDatc

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2011, 09:32:49 PM »

yea.. normal Trapps and Nears  leads  for me involve slinging almost everything with at least 24" sling  and a 48"  if it really takes a turn  or at a big roof.   lots of wandering and bulges  to give you rope drag.   

i agree normal splitter crack and slab stuff it's not needed as much.
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rcongo

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Re: Durability of the metolius master CAM
« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2011, 12:38:45 PM »

So I have Aliens and it is just one of them that I am replacing.  I was thinking a master cam.  I ended up with a blue wild country zero which is about the same size as a green alien.  It seems like the general consensus is to not replace them and fix them at all cost so long as they are the really old ones that didn;t have quality control issues.   If I am in VT where is the best place to get my old aliens reslung.

Thanks for all the input.

Ross
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