Author Topic: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?  (Read 2242 times)

Offline cdf

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Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« on: April 07, 2011, 10:06:30 PM »
Howdy all you knowledgeable gear heads. Looking for some input on latest passive pro offerings from BD, Wild Country and DMM. I have old(ish) BD Stoppers and Wild Country Rocks, like both and they have they have preformed admirably for many years. Have never used the DMM Wallnuts, but have heard good things about them. So what are your personal preferences?

BTW just bought my first wire gate carabiners today, ya I know late to the party  ;)

Thanks in advance.

Offline strandman

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2011, 12:36:17 PM »
I have always liked Rocks, the BD seem a bit harder to seat. DMM i have used mostly as brass offsets which are great, the Wallnuts are a bit sticky

I got TWO wire gates !

Offline sneoh

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2011, 12:55:26 PM »
I've got a small collection of DMM Wall Nuts, eqv to BD size 6 and and below, I think.  When I did more trad climbing, I liked them a bit better than the BD ones. And now that John mentioned it, I would agree they tend to be a little harder to remove (even with a nut tool) than BD.  I used to think that is a good thing. :)
I can't get myself to pay for wire gate biners.  I just got this phobia (irrational as it may be) about the 'paper clip' gates!!
Guess I am too old and too old-fashioned.


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2011, 07:03:07 PM »
...
I can't get myself to pay for wire gate biners.  I just got this phobia (irrational as it may be) about the 'paper clip' gates!!
Guess I am too old and too old-fashioned.

I just picked up a handful of these guys:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/products-news-0/2011/02/11/ange-new-ultra-light-carabiners?utm_source=magazine&utm_medium=print-ad&utm_campaign=ange-2010

Dave Karl pointed out a few features on these that make them safer and more user friendly than most wire gates, and especially better than regular biner's. Thought this might help against the 'paper clip' gates phobia as it is just 1 wire.

Offline bennybrew

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2011, 07:55:45 PM »
...
I can't get myself to pay for wire gate biners.  I just got this phobia (irrational as it may be) about the 'paper clip' gates!!
Guess I am too old and too old-fashioned.

I just picked up a handful of these guys:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/products-news-0/2011/02/11/ange-new-ultra-light-carabiners?utm_source=magazine&utm_medium=print-ad&utm_campaign=ange-2010

Dave Karl pointed out a few features on these that make them safer and more user friendly than most wire gates, and especially better than regular biner's. Thought this might help against the 'paper clip' gates phobia as it is just 1 wire.

i asked a local outfitter (not a dedicated climbing store) about these and they said that petzl was having production problems with the ange (neither of us knew how to pronounce it), especially the small ones.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2011, 08:01:25 PM »
Thanks, DMan.  Interesting looking widget.
It figures that Petzl would be the one to come up with a change to the std wire gate.
I have been a big fan and user of the Spirit (both straight and bent gates) the past 15 years.  I happen to think they are just the best 'everyday' biners out there. 
I would love to know how you feel about the Ange after a season of use.  Perhaps I can talk Santa into dropping off a few this Dec. :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2011, 09:00:32 PM »
i asked a local outfitter (not a dedicated climbing store) about these and they said that petzl was having production problems with the ange (neither of us knew how to pronounce it), especially the small ones.

Sounds like a rumor mill to me, unless the production problem involved not being able to keep up with demand (like the new Gri Gri). I bought 8 and set up some alpine draws with the Mammut dyneema slings... lightest setup I've seen, and I'm real keen on notch-less biners (like the Spirits). I think these are the 1st notchless 'wire' gates out there....

Offline mopowers

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2011, 07:27:44 AM »
I feel Wallnuts are far superior than any other nut available. They place and seat better than any other nut i have used. They also work sideways exceptionally well. I carry double #2 and #3 and find i place both pair on many occasions. I have never had a problem getting them stuck, but that depends on the leader and second i suppose.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2011, 09:03:19 AM »
I feel the same way about Rocks that MoPowers feels about Wallnuts. I use them all the time. I have doubles of the #5 & #6 on my rack. they are perfect for the Valley climbs. Used them a lot in Red Rocks as well...
Al Hospers
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Offline strandman

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2011, 09:28:28 AM »
I also have been using "lite" rocks for a while now. The narrow profile kinda makes them like a big RP, which i like a lot.  Like Al, the #5 Rock is always on my  NH rack, sometimes 2 or 3

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2011, 11:16:08 AM »
Two #5 wild country rocks on my rack @ all times. Both of them Booty  ;D

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2011, 11:57:57 AM »
I agree with Strandman - the lite Rocks are pretty good.
Al Hospers
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Offline ccclimber

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2011, 03:49:12 PM »
Years back I supplemented my WC Rocks with Frost Wedges. Not sure if they are still made but I certainly am happy with them.
Ed

Offline ELM

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Re: Stopper vs Rocks vs Wallnuts any thoughts?
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2011, 07:36:48 PM »
Frost's sentenial nuts are still around. I haven't tried them but have really heard they are easy to remove and great to place...Do you like them CCC ??
Ed Matt
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