NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down

Author Topic: ATC Guide and petzle reverso  (Read 2171 times)

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2011, 09:49:07 AM »

If you climb multi pitch with singles i bet the new Gri Gri would be a good unit. $$$$ Pricy though.

I like the ergonomics of the Cinch better.   I've never used a  gri gri for lead belaying.   the weight difference is minimal.    plus since i already have a Cinch it is simple. 

I love my Cinch for a few reasons.

1) Zero resistance when taking in slack while direct belaying off the anchor. There is no better way to pull in 600 feet of 10mm on the slabs for 7 pitches guiding.

2) Instant lock when loaded... while the brake hand still needs to be on the rope this cam locks up much quicker than a Gri-Gri, which is preferred when belaying a second or TR'ing IMO, but makes this less ideal for belaying a leader which I never do with it.

3) You can install this on a fully loaded rope, adding to it's functionality in self rescue as it can function as a smooth ascender in that application.

4) Works down to 9.4mm (unlike old Gri-Gri 9.7)

Downsides:

1) Does not rap half as smoothly as the Gri-Gri, especially the new one.

2) Not great for belaying a leader.

3) New Gri-Gri works down to 8.9mm.
Logged

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #16 on: April 16, 2011, 10:38:19 AM »

my gf  has the new gri gri2  and she likes it a lot for belaying a leader.   It is similar weight to the Cinch.  and yep  pricey. 

Dman I find belaying a leader with the Cinch to be much more natural than the Grigri.   I also didn't use a gri gri beforehand  so i had no old habits.   I don't use it to rappel so i'm not worried about that.  I think it is just what you are used to using.
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

tinker

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 96
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #17 on: April 16, 2011, 01:53:56 PM »

I just saw photos of the new gri gri. it looks pretty small and light but it is $100.00 clams.
  I recently broke down and bought one and have been really happy with it.  It really is a lot smaller and lighter than the original.  Though not as light as my old stitch plate ;)  100$ is kind of steep, such are the dangers of online shopping.  There I was ordering some other thing's gore-tex patch kit, new hammer head for my ice axe.  Then there it was in a bright shiny pop -up ad I clicked and it was in my shopping cart before I could say munter hitch. :-\  For double rope stuff I will stick with the atc guide.
Logged

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2011, 10:43:57 PM »

Dman I find belaying a leader with the Cinch to be much more natural than the Grigri.   I also didn't use a gri gri beforehand  so i had no old habits.   I don't use it to rappel so i'm not worried about that.  I think it is just what you are used to using.

Probably. I haven't belayed many leaders with it but my two concerns:

1) You can't really feed out slack without holding the cam open right? The Gri-gri (old or new) lets you feed slack without holding the cam open. I could be wrong here and just not practiced with it, but it seems the camming mechanism locks the second you try to pull slack out.

2) Zero rope slippage when catching a fall, leading to higher forces on gear. Related to point one, that thing seems to lock instantly, making it harder to give a dynamic belay. Just my thoughts, but as I said I haven't really belayed many leaders with it.
Logged

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2011, 11:14:45 PM »

Dman I find belaying a leader with the Cinch to be much more natural than the Grigri.   I also didn't use a gri gri beforehand  so i had no old habits.   I don't use it to rappel so i'm not worried about that.  I think it is just what you are used to using.

Probably. I haven't belayed many leaders with it but my two concerns:

1) You can't really feed out slack without holding the cam open right? The Gri-gri (old or new) lets you feed slack without holding the cam open. I could be wrong here and just not practiced with it, but it seems the camming mechanism locks the second you try to pull slack out.

2) Zero rope slippage when catching a fall, leading to higher forces on gear. Related to point one, that thing seems to lock instantly, making it harder to give a dynamic belay. Just my thoughts, but as I said I haven't really belayed many leaders with it.

1)  you can feed out slack just fine without the cam.   instructions http://www.youtube.com/v/R9TO5ikqXwo

2)  "On smaller diameter ropes, or when holding falls that generate extremely high loads (in excess of factor 1) the Cinch acts dynamically, reducing shock loads to the belay system." - from Cinch description on trango's site.  I forget what Kn value  Mal said it started to slip at.    i weigh 120lbs so i always act dynamically. 
this was with no jumping, announced fall.
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

RagingTurk

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 64
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2011, 01:20:46 PM »

RRG - The Shire - Miranda Rayne?
« Last Edit: April 20, 2011, 01:22:20 PM by RagingTurk »
Logged

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2011, 04:01:39 PM »

RRG - The Shire - Miranda Rayne?
Yep, good eye.   Such a fun route.  also fun to wing off. 
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1918
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #22 on: April 20, 2011, 04:24:39 PM »

Whip practice?
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

ELM

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 330
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2011, 05:18:19 PM »

You guys are dressed for two seperate seasons......
Logged
Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

bennybrew

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 231
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #24 on: April 20, 2011, 05:37:04 PM »

You guys are dressed for two seperate seasons......

the climber appears not to be dressed at all.
Logged

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #25 on: April 20, 2011, 06:17:31 PM »

He was whipping for fun.  did it again this year and took video ;)

It wasn't that cold but while belaying I kept my jacket on (light weigh synthetic fill).   climber has more blort than I do and was warm climbing
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1918
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #26 on: April 20, 2011, 08:06:31 PM »

Sorry, totally off topic but some 'fun' facts about whipping for fun -
1.  Muir Valley (region in RRG) rules state no 'victory whips' allowed,
2.  Before the current set of anchors for Social Outcast (at Rumney) were installed, climbers were known to leap off the top of the cliff rather than use the old anchors further back from the prominent lip (that marks the current finish for the climb).  I just couldn't bring myself to jump off the top of the climb when the opportunity presented itself! 
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #27 on: April 20, 2011, 08:21:03 PM »

Sorry, totally off topic but some 'fun' facts about whipping for fun -
1.  Muir Valley (region in RRG) rules state no 'victory whips' allowed,
2.  Before the current set of anchors for Social Outcast (at Rumney) were installed, climbers were known to leap off the top of the cliff rather than use the old anchors further back from the prominent lip (that marks the current finish for the climb).  I just couldn't bring myself to jump off the top of the climb when the opportunity presented itself! 

The Shire is not in Muir Valley.   But we are aware of that rule. 

there are different anchors for social now?  the ones i've used you have to pull the lip, flip your rope around the arete and go up a short slab? 
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3794
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2011, 08:32:56 AM »

Ot or OT not sure which at this point? been useing the ATC guide as an belay off anchors quite a bit. It works well and not too bad to do short lowers or feed out a little slack. i do Not use it in that mode for big roofs where the 2nd may want to retrete quickly to a rest rather than fall and hang.
Logged

perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 817
Re: ATC Guide and petzle reverso
« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2011, 09:18:10 AM »

^^

Trad, I've alway preferred to belay seconds off the anchor, first with original Reverso, now with ATC guide.  Other than when the anchor is sketchy or too low to be comfy, the only time I'll NOT do this is when I expect a second to need some up/down flexibility; I frequently go with a Munter then.  Lord knows it's not for big roofs, though  ;D.
 I'll belay off my harness if I have to, but for some reason I feel all hemmed in when I do this.  Weird.

Dale
Logged
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.152 seconds with 23 queries.