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Author Topic: Bolt Ladder  (Read 903 times)

cjdrover

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Bolt Ladder
« on: April 16, 2011, 09:15:17 PM »

Can anyone recommend a decent bolt ladder in the area? Mass or Southern NH preferred, but it'd be nice to know where they are regardless. Just looking for somewhere to get the basic aid sequence and movement down... if it comes down to it I'll just rap in and pre-place gear on something but I figured there must be some A0's around...

Thanks in advance,

Chris
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2011, 09:41:54 PM »

Rumny? You might get teased a bit but maybe mid week on some harder routs?
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alclimbup2

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2011, 11:21:04 AM »

Has been over 20 years since I've been there, but am from S. NH and on RT 31 South (south off of RT 101), about a couple miles before Greenville NH on the right is an old Railroad trestle 80 feet high maybe (again been a long time) totally bolted up and also great cracks everywhere for nuts/cams , is where I learned aid climbing before I did the prow on cathedral with the guy who taught me there, was great A/0 or harder depending on what you used and I believe had nice chain anchors at the top.

So headed south on 31 before , river (souhegan?, cant remember for sure) runs parallel with road, on right side, look for old trestle RR bridge and is first one right by river, has a bolted front face and can do harder climbs on at least one of the sides, as I recall you had to take a left up a side road right before or after the trestle to park, could not park right on highway on right side, if you get to right to greenville nh, you have gone too far.

So I know a bit vague, and of course no idea what shape bolts might be in 25 years later,  but I know it was known as the aid-practice place for S. NH back in the day, am sure Base climbed there, Mr. Strand knows of maybe?, anyway should be able to find it , as it is right there by river, right befor greenville, best of luck and if you do end up going there, let me know what shape it is in and what you thought, I had a blast there couple times I went and was great intro to aid climbing   
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cwoodman

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2011, 01:15:38 PM »

Al,
I always liked Angel's Highway, a pretty basic 3 pitch aid/mixed line on Cathedral between the Repentence and Remission chimneys. You can actually do it C2. Pretty easy to find. You can even bring a hammer and and a few thin pins. Nice route on great rock and you can actually top out on it.
On Woodchuck ledge off Dugway Rd. off the Kanc, clean aiding Screaming Yellow Zonkers is fun. Great clean aid practice in a perfect 1/2-1" crack. Good bolted anchor on a ledge at the top of the pitch.
The Lumberjack Wall at Found Ledge on the Kanc has a number of short, steep crack/bolted lines. Finding the cliff may be the crux but it's worth it.
Echo Crag in Franconia Notch offers some short crack lines you could clean aid up.
Pawtuckaway State Park east of Manchester offers lots of short cracks and face climbs of all grades. Try clean aiding Bean Pole (13a).
Have fun.
Chuck   
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strandman

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2011, 01:24:10 PM »

You will learn a lot more by just aiding some A1 clean like Chuck says.....
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JBrochu

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2011, 06:13:15 PM »

Has been over 20 years since I've been there, but am from S. NH and on RT 31 South (south off of RT 101), about a couple miles before Greenville NH on the right is an old Railroad trestle 80 feet high maybe (again been a long time) totally bolted up and also great cracks everywhere for nuts/cams , is where I learned aid climbing before I did the prow on cathedral with the guy who taught me there, was great A/0 or harder depending on what you used and I believe had nice chain anchors at the top.

So headed south on 31 before , river (souhegan?, cant remember for sure) runs parallel with road, on right side, look for old trestle RR bridge and is first one right by river, has a bolted front face and can do harder climbs on at least one of the sides, as I recall you had to take a left up a side road right before or after the trestle to park, could not park right on highway on right side, if you get to right to greenville nh, you have gone too far.

So I know a bit vague, and of course no idea what shape bolts might be in 25 years later,  but I know it was known as the aid-practice place for S. NH back in the day, am sure Base climbed there, Mr. Strand knows of maybe?, anyway should be able to find it , as it is right there by river, right befor greenville, best of luck and if you do end up going there, let me know what shape it is in and what you thought, I had a blast there couple times I went and was great intro to aid climbing   

I lived in Greenville for a short time in the mid 90's, and at that time the police were stopping people from climbing on the trestle routes. I have no idea about the current status though.
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Climber57r

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2011, 06:15:18 PM »

PWay has been my training ground. Good cracks etc.. I had to laugh at Bean Pole. I tried an attempt to aid Solo ground up and quickly made the decision to top rope it instead. Bring a pad for those first micronut placements. But the horn is great/ multiple cracks out there...

Enjoy
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MT

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2011, 08:04:23 PM »

There are a couple of climbs at Sundown that go quite easily at C1/2 and can be done in bad weather. They're short, but good for getting your systems down.

Good luck,

Mike
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strandman

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Re: Bolt Ladder
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2011, 10:50:49 AM »

Razor Crack is fun and mostly fixed. Hasn't gone free... yet
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