Author Topic: 2 new routes at Humphrey's  (Read 2535 times)

Offline Admin Al

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2 new routes at Humphrey's
« on: May 09, 2011, 10:21:38 PM »
"May Day", an alternate start to "Buried Treasure"

About 200' to the west of Guide's Route and Wiesner's Dike, locate an 18" diameter beech tree two feet from the base of a steep face.  Just to the east of this tree is the original start of Buried Treasure.  Approximately 12' to the west of this tree, identify a vertical crack that starts at wide finger width, and opens, gradually to wide hand width.  Protecting with cams (# 0.5 to #3 Friends), or wired nuts and tri-cams, jam 25' to reach a 4" maple, which grows from the crack.  At this point the face angles back, and the crack widens.  After another 15' of easy climbing, belay from a 6" hemlock, where this route joins the line of Buried Treasure. 

Grade:  5.6+. 

FFA:  Michael Kahn and George Hurley, 5-1-2011. 

-----------------------------------------------------

Unnamed Route

Located on the main face at Humphrey's, between Wanderlust and Run Don't Walk. The first pitch was done by Joe and Judy Perez, several years ago but not completely bolted. The second was discovered by Al Hospers on 5/7/2011.

P 1: Climb the right facing corner (large to mid-sized cams) to a stance below a headwall. Surmount the slightly overhanging headwall past 2 bolts and continue past one bolt to the Wanderlust belay. (5.9)

P2: Climb straight up from the Wanderlust belay past 6 bolts to a new 2-bolt anchor with chains. (5.9)

Grade: 5.9

Descent: Rappel the route

First Complete Ascent: Joe Perez, Al Hospers and Judy Perez 5/9/2011
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2011, 07:19:37 AM »
Sounds fun...if only my blown calf would heal.  :'(
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

DLottmann

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2011, 08:45:27 AM »
Thanks for finally adding that pitch above Wanderlust P1, I'm heading out to check it out today.

As for the "May Day" location description, "Buried Treasure" is not in the Webster guidebook or on this website so I wouldn't use it as a reference. And for those climbers that are not cardinally orientated I would just say "200' LEFT of Guide's Route and Wiesner's Dike"

What was the original start of "Buried Treasure"?
« Last Edit: May 10, 2011, 08:51:03 AM by DMan »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2011, 10:58:34 AM »
Dave...

I hope you enjoy the new route. I think you will like P2, we all do. we also added a middle bolt to P1 as even tho it is moderate, you risk groundfall if you slip!

I need to call George and ask about Buried Treasure. I can't find anything about it.
Al Hospers
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strandman

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2011, 06:45:49 PM »
SHIT- the Hump is gonna start tilting back from the weight of all these hangers   ;D

The new Rumney- I can see it now, cars packed in along the river, bad belays, cutting trees...... OH SHIT that already has happened at Hump

DLottmann

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2011, 09:30:14 PM »
Okay, so climbed it the extension above Wanderlust P1 today and here's my take:

Great sustained 5.9 face climbing. While the "natural" line is a bit to the right of the bolted line the route follows some fun face climbing just left of easier ground. I would not call this pitch 2 of the Joe & Judy Perez's unnamed route, but call it an independent line. The name "Wanderless" came to mind, since it goes straight up from the Wanderlust anchor vrs. wandering left. I can see people unfamiliar with the area launching up this thinking it is the 2nd pitch (5.7) of Wanderlust  :o

I think it is a bit harder than Hotter Than Hell... but that is probably because I have only done it once. Hindsight is 20/20, but I wished the 1st bolt was placed higher to better protect the first cruxy moves, and the anchor could have been a foot or so higher so the belayer could have the nice ledge to comfortably belay from. All in all though, a nice new addition.

I'll upload some photos in a second. If the last picture is of "May Day" then you should alter the description to "100 feet left of Wiesner's Dike".

DLottmann

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2011, 09:40:30 PM »
http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2011/05/11/some-new-routes-at-humphreys-ledge/

If the last pic in the slideshow is "Mayday" let me know. That's only 100 feet (or less) from the Wiesner corner.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2011, 08:12:01 AM »
glad you liked it Dave. I think that the last pic, if I can tell through the trees, is in fact May Day.

--al
Al Hospers
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2011, 09:07:39 AM »
RE any confusion with Wanderlust:

1) if someone has climbed P1 of Wanderlust, they shouldn't have any problem with P2 of this new climb.

2) if they read the book or description of Wanderlust, it's pretty specific about the traverse up anad left.

RE the first bolt on P2: I actually never had a problem with that move over that little roof, but I know Joe found it a little heady. maybe I can reach a hold or something, plus there is a little place for your foot right at the edge of the overlap.

BTW - did you climb P1? I think that's 5.9+. getting to make the clip on the 2nd bolt is hard for me.

I am very interested in what others opinions are about it.
Al Hospers
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my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline Smear

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2011, 09:34:39 AM »
I am psyched to try it Al.I really like the face climbing over there.It might be July before I can do it due to injury but at least I'll miss the worst of the bugs!

DLottmann

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2011, 10:52:19 AM »
RE any confusion with Wanderlust:

1) if someone has climbed P1 of Wanderlust, they shouldn't have any problem with P2 of this new climb.

2) if they read the book or description of Wanderlust, it's pretty specific about the traverse up anad left.

RE the first bolt on P2: I actually never had a problem with that move over that little roof, but I know Joe found it a little heady. maybe I can reach a hold or something, plus there is a little place for your foot right at the edge of the overlap.

BTW - did you climb P1? I think that's 5.9+. getting to make the clip on the 2nd bolt is hard for me.

I am very interested in what others opinions are about it.

It'll be nice when there is a new guidebook with a decent topo of the area. If they read the guidebook they're looking for a 5.8R with no bolts...

I've climbed P1 in the past, before the hangers were put back on it. Fun moves. We linked the new route with P1 of Wanderlust. You should consider "Wanderless" as a name for your route, it fits!

Offline old_school

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2011, 02:28:28 PM »
Thanks for the pics DMan...looks like a fun route.  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2011, 03:52:06 PM »
No prob. So what did you do to yourself anyways?

Offline old_school

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2011, 08:07:30 PM »
No prob. So what did you do to yourself anyways?

Tore up my right calf muscle pretty good on a run about a week ago..I am pissed!!!  >:(
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Jeff

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Re: 2 new routes at Humphrey's
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2011, 11:13:23 PM »
Another vote for the quality of the new pitch above the first belay of Wanderlust; climbed it this past Sunday when most everything else was quite wet (dripping?), and it was great fun!! Also like Dave's name suggestion of Wander less!  Another good addition to the crag!