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Author Topic: informationnel or obeissance instrumental  (Read 4600 times)

Offline lucky luke

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informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« on: June 06, 2011, 10:07:17 am »
I don't have a good traduction for that two term, so I write it in french. One means that when you climb, you feel your body as it move in space. You have a feeling of how your body move and when you are in equilibrum or not. When you see a photo, you instinctively contract those muscles which was in action in the move. It is what they call informationnel.

The other is when your mind is stronger than the feeling of your body. You dominate the pain and your body must follow the decision of your mind or it will be punish. You jam and, even if it is painfull, you move over and push your body to the maximum that it can sustain.

I am informationnel, but I never open my hand if I had the feeling that falling is worse than going to the top. So, I had both state of mind, but at different level. When you climb, are you more informationnel or instrumental.
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Offline strandman

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2011, 08:50:51 pm »
the translation may be lost but I remember the great Edlinger saying he "felt" the moves  ??
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Offline little lil

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2011, 10:08:19 pm »
For me, it depends on the climb.  if it's a climb i'm comfy and it all feels very natural - the def. informational
When I push the grades and get outside of my comfort zone, then I need my head to take over and do stuff to my body that it's gonna hate me for later - instrumental

There's this really nice phrase in German that translates to something like:  Your body can only go where your mind went first.  There's prob a better way to put it in English, but you get the idea.  That's how it is for me on climbs that are at my limit.  If I can't see myself doing the climb / move, then I can as well as go home and do some yoga instead.
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Offline sneoh

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2011, 10:14:11 pm »
Quote from: little lil on June 06, 2011, 10:08:19 pm
For me, it depends on the climb.  if it's a climb i'm comfy and it all feels very natural - the def. informational
When I push the grades and get outside of my comfort zone, then I need my head to take over and do stuff to my body that it's gonna hate me for later - instrumental
+1.

Edlinger exudes gracefulness.  
« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 11:24:56 pm by sneoh »
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Offline lucky luke

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2011, 10:47:22 pm »
Quote from: strandman on June 06, 2011, 08:50:51 pm
the translation may be lost but I remember the great Edlinger saying he "felt" the moves  ??
yes, it is hard to speak in english.

 edlinger is definitely informationnal. He is a sport climber, but some trad climber are also informationnal.
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2011, 07:28:46 pm »
Edlinger is the guy who first inspired me to climb, when I saw a film of him bouldering at fontainebleau. I had just hiked as a kid before that. Then I met Eroc Boyd who took me to Lincoln Woods and I met Whitey. Whitey wasn't quite Edlinger, but he is a character and talks funny.
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Offline sneoh

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2011, 08:00:17 pm »
Quote from: M_Sprague on July 28, 2011, 07:28:46 pm
Edlinger is the guy who first inspired me to climb, when I saw a film of him bouldering at fontainebleau. I had just hiked as a kid before that. Then I met Eroc Boyd who took me to Lincoln Woods and I met Whitey. Whitey wasn't quite Edlinger, but he is a character and talks funny.
Anything about Edlinger at Font is just plain amazing.  
Twenty five years on and Whitey STILL talks funny and is a character through and through. That will NEVER change.:)
Let's all get together for Farley in Oct and Nov, Mark.  Hopefully we can get Ward out too, baby notwithstanding.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011, 10:47:55 pm by sneoh »
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Offline smartpig

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2011, 08:33:59 pm »
My encounter with Enlinger was while I was doing Country Club Crack on Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon about 1985.  He was projecting some 5.13 and I looked down observing him pissing in the river and smoking a cigarette! Not exactly floating it! 
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Offline smartpig

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2011, 08:37:36 pm »
He must have been on Tourist Extravagance 5.12d just to the right of CCC.
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2011, 09:36:36 pm »
Frenchies!...oops, can't say that. Champoing is here  ;D
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. – John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline Dave

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2011, 10:19:19 pm »
Quote from: sneoh on July 28, 2011, 08:00:17 pm
 
Twenty five years on and Whitey STILL talks funny and is a character through and true. That will NEVER change.:)
Let's all get together for Farley in Oct and Nov, Mark.  Hopefully we can get Ward out too, baby notwithstanding.

Whitey will NEVER change and that's a great thing! ;D When I first started climbing I climbed alot with him in Conn. and he still climbs hard along with talking funny. ::) He sure inspired me to push myself and climb hard.
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Offline lucky luke

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2011, 11:22:26 am »
Quote from: M_Sprague on July 28, 2011, 09:36:36 pm
Frenchies!...oops, can't say that. Champoing is here  ;D

I am from Quebec, not france!!! Not very better as I know the reputation of quebec people at rumney. But I do my best.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2011, 01:05:51 pm »
guys - ya know champoing really has a thick skin to take all the abuse you guys lay on him & not (apparently) get pissed off! [wry grin]
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Offline little lil

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2011, 02:32:38 pm »
I totally agree.  He's never out of line, nor insulting, watches his language and I think really means well.
I think it's great that Champoing makes an effort to put what most of us would sum up by "gut feeling" into actual words so that folks get a chance to follow his line of thinking and decision making. (Tho, my attention span is short and I tend to get lost.)
Rock on Champ!
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: informationnel or obeissance instrumental
« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2011, 04:25:30 pm »


We are from Quebec !!!
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. – John Kenneth Galbrait
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