Author Topic: Above And Beyond 5.9+  (Read 2168 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Above And Beyond 5.9+
« on: July 14, 2011, 11:04:06 PM »
Joe and Judy Perez and I have been working a new route over on Humphrey's just left of Wanderlust. Until now it was Unnamed Route, but we finally finished it today - adding a third and final pitch. We had been thinking that it was not going to get done until the weather cooled off, but today was a nice one so we grabbed it. Here is the information. Give it a try, I think you will like it but let us know.

Above And Beyond: 5.9+
Directions:  Hike left toward the end of the main cliff band looking for a clean slab with shiny bolts, just before a buttress. This is Wanderlust. The climb starts up the right facing corner of the buttress, left of the slab.

Description: The first pitch was established by Joe and Judy Perez several years before the second, thus the FA history is somewhat complicated. In the spring of 2011 the Perez's and Al Hospers went up to check out a possible second pitch and Al found a nice 5.9 line that went straight up off the Wanderlust belay on good rock. Several weeks later the threesome hiked up to the top of the cliff and rapped down to top-rope the line for pitch 3. A couple of months later, in early July, Joe & Judy went back and drilled the bolt holes for the last pitch. On Bastille Day 2011 all three went back, put the bolts in and Joe led the last pitch.

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner to a small ledge just below the slightly-overhanging headwall. Surmount the headwall past 2 bolts (crux), past 1 more bolt and then pad up easy ground to the Wanderlust belay. (5.9+)

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the anchor and follow a straight line past 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. (5.9)

Pitch 3: Climb up to the headwall and clip the first bolt. Make difficult balance moves up and right to a second bolt (crux) and then up with some difficulty to the third bolt. Continue up right of the bolt to a left facing flake and a stance where you can get gear (green Camelot) in a horizontal at the top of the flake. Continue past several bolts to a 3-bolt anchor under a large rotten headwall. Do NOT continue to the top of the cliff as there is a LOT of debris on the ledge above. (5.9+)

Gear: P1 requires several large to medium cams. P2 is a clip-up as there is no natural protection available. P3 requires a green Camelot and you can possibly use another small cam or two.

Descent: Rappel from the upper anchor in 3 raps with a single 60 meter rope.

History:  P1 Joe & Judy Perez somewhere around 2005
P2 Al Hospers, Joe & Judy Perez 5/9/2011
P3 Joe Perez, Judy Perez & Al Hospers 7/14/2011
« Last Edit: July 14, 2011, 11:06:19 PM by Admin Al »
Al Hospers
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Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2011, 03:53:27 PM »
Holy crap! Nice job guys! 3 pitches? How long are the pitches,  sounds fun!
someone dropped a steamer in the gene pool

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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2011, 06:50:20 AM »
Bill - pitch 1 is short, pitch 2 a little longer and pitch 3 is a little less than 1/2 rope length. tho short,  it feels right to break them up that way.
Al Hospers
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Offline David_G48

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2011, 01:36:30 PM »
Al
Will two 60 meter ropes (doubles) get you down from the 3rd pitch anchor?

Thanks

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2011, 05:28:16 PM »
David: not in one rap. they will from the 2nd anchor for sure tho.
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2011, 02:08:03 PM »
Dave Penny and I went up this morning to do the new third pitch of Above and Beyond and I have to admit it was really fun. Definitely some tweaky moves past that first bolt, and some interesting moves to follow right through to the third bolt. There still is a lot of friable rock up there, particularly at the start of the third pitch which would be your foot holds...some of those flakes and blocks are still creaking and flex with little pressure. Real fun to get high up on Humphrey's again. Nice work you guys!  ;)

I heard you and a group pass beneath us this morning Al. Hope you got up and out before the sky opened up!!!  :)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2011, 12:28:14 AM »
Chris: glad you liked the climb. I think it's a nice addition. stay away from the corner on the left for sure. some funky stuff there...

I heard you and a group pass beneath us this morning Al. Hope you got up and out before the sky opened up!!!  :)

that was me & the Perez's. we were working on another new route, which we finished today. I guess we are too old to know when to  quit. [grin]
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2011, 07:13:32 AM »
that was me & the Perez's. we were working on another new route, which we finished today. I guess we are too old to know when to  quit. [grin]

Excellent...looking forward to climbing the new route! Where is it?
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2011, 08:26:33 AM »
I'll post a description later today, but it starts 30' left of 3 Brushes, behind a large oak (?) under a right-leaning arch about 50' up. it goes up the right side of a mossy slab - tho the holds & feet are cleaned. there are 2 bolts & gear. probably 5.6 or there-bouts and 80'... it's called "Daddy Has New Shoes".
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2011, 10:55:01 AM »
Excellent. You guys never rest huh?  lol  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline old_school

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2011, 03:21:08 PM »
One suggestion I might have about Above and beyond is the location of the anchor on top of the second pitch. If we could just raise the bolts up another 1.5'-2' one could use the ledge there to stand up and belay comfortably. As it stands now, you have to either belay at your ankles, or turn it into a hanging belay...2' below the beautiful stance. Just saying...  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2011, 03:33:16 PM »
Chris - I agree about the anchor. however it's done and I don't think WE will change it. if someone else wants to do it, none of us would mind. Joe did it and he placed it for himself, without really thinking about it. we discussed it later but decided none of us wanted to haul the drill up and deal with it, not to mention paying for 2 more studs. [wry grin]

...rest, we don't need no stinkin' rest! [grin]
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #12 on: July 21, 2011, 03:35:43 PM »
Chris - I agree about the anchor. however it's done and I don't think WE will change it. if someone else wants to do it, none of us would mind. Joe did it and he placed it for himself, without really thinking about it. we discussed it later but decided none of us wanted to haul the drill up and deal with it, not to mention paying for 2 more studs. [wry grin]

...rest, we don't need no stinkin' rest! [grin]

No worries...the climb is a total blast, the first crux is real fun and the crux start on the third pitch is exposed and a total blast!!! already done it twice!!! The anchor will stay...lol
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #13 on: July 21, 2011, 06:27:23 PM »
I chose the hanging belay option.  It wasn't bad as there are smaller foot placements a foot or two below the bigger ledge...Of course I didn't have to hang there too long as Grammy came up quickly and then just kept on going up the third pitch!!  ;D
« Last Edit: July 21, 2011, 06:29:22 PM by dpen »

Offline David_G48

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Re: Above And Beyond 5.9+
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2011, 08:18:24 AM »
Went up there the other day with 2 other people and had the opportunity to use (2) 60 meter ropes which did allow us to rap from the top to the bottom. Interesting moves at the bottom of the 3rd pitch. I think that it helps to be tall there. I really like this climb! Thanks Judy,Joe and Al for all the new routes that you have worked so hard to put up.
David