General > Rock Climbing: Sport

Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?

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M_Sprague:
You may have noticed in mountainproject http://www.mountainproject.com/v/jaws-ii/106905810 that Mike Foley managed to get the 3rd ascent of Jaws II this weekend. The toughest routes are now getting quite a number of repeats and there aren't many super hard open projects. Where do you think the next New England 5.15s are going to be found to challenge the latest generation? Or do you think the cliffs are  climbed out and they will have to climb barefoot or scarier lines to keep on the cutting edge?

strandman:
You know were they are Mark  :D

Yellow Wall Direct- cathedral
French Connection- Cathedral (maybe only 5.14)

A certain giant overhang out at Green's

The Overhangs at Sundown Main

Razor Crack

What about Bill Clinton @ Rumney ??

M_Sprague:
Green's has potential for pretty hard, high quality, but I doubt anything close to 5.15. I'm not sure if Bill Clinton will go. There is a bulbous overhang low down that is pretty blank and may require a move like lifting a giant barrel in your arms while reclining.

I started bolting a line at Waimea years ago that continues straight up from the start of Dodge The Lemons, but I am not strong enough to even trust myself bolting it anymore. I wouldn't be close enough to doing the moves to make sure the clips were right. It will require somebody with very strong fingers and the new routing skills to thread that gray line of cleaning since it will  require some loose choss removed and maybe some reinforcement.

I wonder if there could be a hard line just left of Away in the Wilderness at the Painted walls?

Unfortunately, we don't really have cliffs with those long steep lines like they are finding in Spain, so our new hard lines will most likely be really bouldery power problems. I haven't checked out much up north and east of North Conway. Maybe there is some long hard steep potential there.

We do have TONS of potential in the 12 to low 14 range though, so at least most of us will remain challenged for a long time.

strandman:
AH YES - Way in the Wilderness-

overlaps and blank-ish faces. There is also a very thin leaning crack/seam with potential. Also maybe some stuff at Evans, but 15 ?  I don't know.

strandman:
The future 15's may well be 13/14with gear (bad) There are routes like this in the

 UK now.

14b , all gear 65 meter on a sea cliff

14+, rp's and ground fall potential from 60'

What's harder ?

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