Author Topic: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?  (Read 2774 times)

Offline M_Sprague

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Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« on: July 25, 2011, 09:59:57 AM »
You may have noticed in mountainproject http://www.mountainproject.com/v/jaws-ii/106905810 that Mike Foley managed to get the 3rd ascent of Jaws II this weekend. The toughest routes are now getting quite a number of repeats and there aren't many super hard open projects. Where do you think the next New England 5.15s are going to be found to challenge the latest generation? Or do you think the cliffs are  climbed out and they will have to climb barefoot or scarier lines to keep on the cutting edge?
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Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2011, 10:17:09 AM »
You know were they are Mark  :D

Yellow Wall Direct- cathedral
French Connection- Cathedral (maybe only 5.14)

A certain giant overhang out at Green's

The Overhangs at Sundown Main

Razor Crack

What about Bill Clinton @ Rumney ??

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2011, 10:48:25 AM »
Green's has potential for pretty hard, high quality, but I doubt anything close to 5.15. I'm not sure if Bill Clinton will go. There is a bulbous overhang low down that is pretty blank and may require a move like lifting a giant barrel in your arms while reclining.

I started bolting a line at Waimea years ago that continues straight up from the start of Dodge The Lemons, but I am not strong enough to even trust myself bolting it anymore. I wouldn't be close enough to doing the moves to make sure the clips were right. It will require somebody with very strong fingers and the new routing skills to thread that gray line of cleaning since it will  require some loose choss removed and maybe some reinforcement.

I wonder if there could be a hard line just left of Away in the Wilderness at the Painted walls?

Unfortunately, we don't really have cliffs with those long steep lines like they are finding in Spain, so our new hard lines will most likely be really bouldery power problems. I haven't checked out much up north and east of North Conway. Maybe there is some long hard steep potential there.

We do have TONS of potential in the 12 to low 14 range though, so at least most of us will remain challenged for a long time.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2011, 10:56:54 AM »
AH YES - Way in the Wilderness-

overlaps and blank-ish faces. There is also a very thin leaning crack/seam with potential. Also maybe some stuff at Evans, but 15 ?  I don't know.

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2011, 07:04:30 PM »
The future 15's may well be 13/14with gear (bad) There are routes like this in the

 UK now.

14b , all gear 65 meter on a sea cliff

14+, rp's and ground fall potential from 60'

What's harder ?

Online Admin Al

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2011, 04:52:41 PM »
FWIW I was out banding peregrine's this spring and saw a line with bolts about 200' left of Way In The Wilderness. there was a draw on a bolt about 90-100' up. looked pretty darn hard to me.
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2011, 07:04:19 PM »
That sounds like a line I started bolting years ago and never got back to. I always seem to have my bolting gear somewhere else, it is bird season or it would be blazing in the sun. I didn't finish bolting the very top as it was too wet. I thought it was going to be a very nice 11 as far as I climbed it, but I wasn't really able to judge the very top with the wetness. It may bump up some there as there was a slopey mantle to top out. It still needs a top anchor and a few bolts last I knew. The first pitch takes gear and 1 bolt to a bolted anchor. The second pitch is cool edge and flake climbing. I would love to finish it when the birds have left, but it has been years, so if somebody else wants to finish it and will do a good job with the bolts (1/2" SS) and cleaning, go for it. I would like to see a top bolted anchor instead of using a tree so it doesn't get eroded.

Where I though a hard line might be is between this line and Way in the Wilderness. I never checked it out closely though.

When do the birds usually leave their nest there, pretty soon? maybe I'll finish that one before heading back to the projects further from  the road. More people would be likely to climb it.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011, 07:13:01 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Online Admin Al

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2011, 08:07:32 PM »
When do the birds usually leave their nest there, pretty soon? maybe I'll finish that one before heading back to the projects further from  the road. More people would be likely to climb it.

the birds have been gone for a month now... go for it.
Al Hospers
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Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2011, 10:44:36 AM »
Now that the Mineral site trail has been fixed up, you can check out that area. Some big ass roofs with cracks......

Offline Chinos

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2012, 05:49:44 AM »
went out to Mineral Site last weekend. Pretty impressive roofs and overhangs! some potential for new stuff.
Many of the routes require aid, but completely free they would be real hard.

Free this you %&*#s looks amazing and would push the high end of the grade scale!

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2012, 09:31:12 AM »
Nice stuff- tcu's out a big roof

Offline meclimber

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2012, 09:53:21 AM »
Some buddies have been on that and say it's great, but REALLY hard.  .13+/.14-
Jon Howard

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2012, 10:11:37 AM »
At least.. there's always the last 20' of Razor Crack.. after the 13+  intro.. :)

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2012, 11:04:44 AM »
not .15s   but  with Dave and Daniel working together  some hard stuff is bound to be climbed.   though they seem to find more new boulders than new routes. 

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Offline sneoh

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Re: Where are the new 5.15s going to be found?
« Reply #14 on: October 21, 2012, 05:02:20 PM »

Just got back from RRG; saw plenty of potential 5.14 and 5.15 lines which are waiting to be developed.  My fifth visit in six years, still every bit a freaking amazing place to me.


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