Author Topic: Camden, briefly  (Read 559 times)

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Camden, briefly
« on: July 23, 2011, 08:34:58 PM »
Mackerel scales...


and mare's tails...


make ships reduce their sails.
And keep climbers from spontaneously combusting on the rock.

Troy and I ventured up to Ocean Lookout after a morning rainshower and found excellent conditions, a beauty of breeze, and some fun climbs.
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2011, 08:51:20 PM »
We started with Exasperator, not a great choice for off the couch, but whatever...

Looking down some of the route after the crux.


Troy approaching the crux...


and then disappearing while I pretend to belay and take pics.


This climb breaks my no-overhanging shit rule, but is too fun not to do, esp when you can place 18 pieces before the roof hand-traverse! 

If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2011, 08:55:08 PM »
Troy kvetched his way up Swing Set, which is a great gear lead and has blueberries at the belay.



« Last Edit: July 23, 2011, 09:17:32 PM by perswig »
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2011, 08:58:05 PM »
We gaped at the big wall.
Come and get it, hardmen and -women; Play Misty for Me .11a, Running Free .11b, and Central Crack .12a (R) await.

If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2011, 09:07:01 PM »
We finished on the seldom done Groovy Grubworm, breaking it into 2 pitches, allegedly to replace gear for the second 1/2 but really so I could choke down the urge to vomit after flailing up the eponymous starting groove.

Looking up.


Troy heading into the maw.


And digging deep at the exit.

If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM »
The second half goes up the crux slab, around a horrible rounded roof thing (both Troy and I were swearing like longshoremen), then up a really nice hand crack that is too short, except that you're wasted from the aforementioned groove and slab and roof thing and you just want off this climb.  Now.





Fun day, better weather than expected, and only 8% dehydration by the end.  What's not to like?


Dale
« Last Edit: July 23, 2011, 09:20:25 PM by perswig »
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DWT

  • Guest
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2011, 11:21:27 PM »
Nice pics Dale.  Cheers!

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7126
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2011, 01:25:18 AM »
looks like a great day Dale...
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

Offline bennybrew

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2011, 06:44:01 PM »
sweet! i gotta get down there some day...

Offline dpen

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 205
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2011, 09:44:13 PM »
Good stuff Dale.

Offline epoch

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 230
  • jay a.
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2011, 12:52:10 PM »
We started with Exasperator, not a great choice for off the couch, but whatever...

Looking down some of the route after the crux.


Troy approaching the crux...


and then disappearing while I pretend to belay and take pics.


This climb breaks my no-overhanging shit rule, but is too fun not to do, esp when you can place 18 pieces before the roof hand-traverse! 


Exasperator is one of my faves. It' looks mungy from the deck but opens up to a fantastic climb!

Get on Millenium Falcon next time you get up there. Don't let the grade scare you, its protected very well. More so than when I put the thing up!

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 841
Re: Camden, briefly
« Reply #11 on: August 07, 2011, 10:30:29 PM »
Epoch, I did MF last year.  Burly crux, but beautiful delicate start with tricky gear and sustained but juggy climbing after the crux to the anchor.
I'm not sure .10c is appropriate, given my success  ;).  Can't speak to P2, that was Danielle's lead.

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.