Author Topic: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?  (Read 4098 times)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #105 on: August 11, 2011, 09:28:08 PM »
I think Champ would be a great mentor in person.  It's just hard in an online forum to share your process of decision making, esp as most folks here are kickass climbers with decades of experience themselves. 
Champ, wanna climb some time?  I'm a 5.8 trad leader who's regressing to 5.6 - darn grad school!    >:(
Not as a mentor, but just to climb. I am going west pretty soon, so it can be at the end of september..

DLottmann

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #106 on: August 11, 2011, 09:56:31 PM »
I think Champ would be a great mentor in person.  It's just hard in an online forum to share your process of decision making, esp as most folks here are kickass climbers with decades of experience themselves. 
Champ, wanna climb some time?  I'm a 5.8 trad leader who's regressing to 5.6 - darn grad school!    >:(
Not as a mentor, but just to climb. I am going west pretty soon, so it can be at the end of september..

Do we not all mentor even as we just climb? If I just do rather than say does my second not learn?

Offline little lil

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #107 on: August 11, 2011, 10:13:51 PM »
All the same thing.  Let's have fun and be a big happy family!   ;D
Lilly V.

Offline tinker

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #108 on: August 12, 2011, 07:08:24 AM »
8 pages! :o in response to the original post,  I would daresay they were all out climbing and not on here. ;)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #109 on: August 12, 2011, 12:23:59 PM »
Do we not all mentor even as we just climb? If I just do rather than say does my second not learn?

I agree with you...even if you can be a mentor in trad or a mentor in sport. One time I had hard time on a slab, I made a traverse. My partner arrive in the move and look at me. You know, he had a smile like a young bear looking at a piknik basket. A face saying...I am going to show you some thing dude.
indeed, I learned some think that I looking for for years. How to stay in balance on a slab when you walk up.

conclusion: if you take a sport climbing mentor, he will bring you on thing as good as bolt protect route: no falling aspiration for you

If you take a trad climber mentor, you are going to shit in your pants at the begining as he take all the responsbility of your security. After two years, you will bring other people on trad climbing and it is just at that moment that you are going to understand that your skill is beter suit for any remote route.

If a beginer know the diffference, he can make his own choice. If there is leader of 5.8 to 5.10, he will find a mentor for trad. If we leaved the place to sport climber...any think will be so scary that we will have to place bolt every where.

   

DGoguen

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #110 on: August 12, 2011, 02:23:51 PM »
If we leaved the place to sport climber...any think will be so scary that we will have to place bolt every where.

We need not worry with people like you standing guard.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #111 on: August 12, 2011, 02:37:43 PM »
I do not know about anybody else but I feel infinitely safer already knowing Champ is standing guard and ever vigilant! :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #112 on: August 12, 2011, 04:47:21 PM »
We need not worry with people like you standing guard.

Village people are very different than me on many point of view. i can not see any relation with climbing.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #113 on: August 12, 2011, 05:54:02 PM »
"Macho, macho, macho man"  Let's all sing along!!!!

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DGoguen

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #114 on: August 13, 2011, 09:36:17 AM »
I knew it! You were the carpenter. I'm just kidding Jacques. I'm not sure the Village people had any point of view, let alone relative to climbing.
It's just that all this talk of pant shittng apprenticeship in preparation of remote ranges while the scared sport climbers cower in the shadows placing bolts everywhere just sounds a little macho.
Your hearts in the right place and I wish you the best. I guess I don't take it as seriously as you do on an internet forum. Peace. Keep up the good fight.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2011, 09:38:02 AM by DGoguen »

Offline perswig

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #115 on: August 13, 2011, 06:02:58 PM »
Keep up the good fight.

But for the love of god, let this thread die. 
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline smartpig

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #116 on: August 13, 2011, 09:41:48 PM »
I'm sorry guys I was the party ahead of him on Middle Sugarloaf that day (see first post)!  Life by numbers 5.8R.
Jamie Cunningham
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Offline strandman

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #117 on: August 14, 2011, 10:25:48 AM »
I'm sorry guys I was the party ahead of him on Middle Sugarloaf that day (see first post)!  Life by numbers 5.8R.

J- is that the route that follows the skyline ?

Offline smartpig

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #118 on: August 14, 2011, 10:53:09 PM »
I'm sorry guys I was the party ahead of him on Middle Sugarloaf that day (see first post)!  Life by numbers 5.8R.

J- is that the route that follows the skyline ?

No. You are thinking of Skyline Promenade (SP), 5.9R, by Winkler/Moffat/A&J Comeau.  Life By Numbers (LBN) is on the next slab to the right of SP and uses the lower portion of the large right facing corner (5.7R) of which SP rides its top arete. The Perez bolted the slab immediately to the right of LBN (5.8eight), intersects LBN mid section (5.7), and then traverses left onto the top of SP's finishing slab, 5.9 (hence the newer bolt on the top of SP). Perez's route is called Bolt in the Sky.  LBN trends right away from the corner and finishes on a 5.8R slab protected by a lone (now) rusty 1/4" bolt after the business is mostly done.

When SP was put up it finished on the upper 1/3 of the slab with an angle in a shallow left facing corner then making 5.9- moves to a 1/4" rivet (replaced by Paul Cormier with a 3/8" stainless machine nut- 1/4"er was badly rusted) then running out the remaining 25' of 5.7 climbing.  Now with bolt above the rivet it takes some of the R-factor but still remains bold- but not as bold as its original version.  I do not yet know if Perez put in the bolt when they did Bolt in the Sky and being unaware of the history of SP, or if some unknown placed it there.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2011, 11:06:05 PM by smartpig »
Jamie Cunningham
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