Author Topic: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?  (Read 3986 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #30 on: August 02, 2011, 06:26:33 PM »
DMZ is Ok when it is dry but is also a good example of how lead bolting can look ugly if not done properly....

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #31 on: August 02, 2011, 06:59:43 PM »
The climbing is OK but the whole set up is kind of a pile. 

The correlation betweeen sport and trad is non sense  ............it doesn;t exist


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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #32 on: August 02, 2011, 09:17:28 PM »
I knew we couldn’t get through this without a reference to Freedom of the Hills...

for christ sakes Champ do you over analyze everything in your life?

“you don’t have to decide where to place bolt”....

You are discussing for the sake of discussing... regurgitating the same idea over and over with a slightly different twist. You’ve probably made 8 topics that all SOUND THE SAME.

Sorry if this is harsh, but I am finding your comments extremely repetitive and boring... but I guess I’m the moron that keeps reading them...

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #33 on: August 02, 2011, 09:45:01 PM »

Sorry if this is harsh, but I am finding your comments extremely repetitive and boring... but I guess I’m the moron that keeps reading them...

I don't think it is harsh,   I find them repetitive and unrightfully elitist.    He thinks he's some sort of hot shit trad climber who thinks he knows everything and isn't even close. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline sneoh

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #34 on: August 02, 2011, 10:17:45 PM »
I guess I am double-moron for reading all the posts from today a second time! :)
The second time around, I noticed something -
I can work all route in cathedral in one month and be able to climb it after.   
I am willing to bet Champ does not mean for anyone to take "all" literally so an edit for clarity might be in order here ....

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #35 on: August 03, 2011, 12:41:30 AM »
    He thinks he's some sort of hot shit trad climber who thinks he knows everything and isn't even close. 
I don't realy remember where I made a gradation of who is better; trad climber or sport climber. I just say that it is different and I conceed that you can climb harder grade in sport.I know where to find 5.8 to 5.10 sport climber. I notice that, to climb harder, they use bolt to have all there concentration on the movement. when they climb with removal protection, they do what they learn. they concentrate in the movement and can do dangerous mistake. In trad, we think at the security first because it is more tricky than when you clip a bolt. The time we use to learn to protect a route is not use to improve the movement. so, we are weaker in movement, but stronger in how to protect a route.
I am still learning because I don't know everything. I climb enought 5.10 onsight to have a good knowledge of 5.9 and 5.8 rope management and I can evaluate what other person do. I don't know a lot about protecting 5.11 and the technique. So your insult that I think that I am a hot shit trad climber is false. Maybe jake dakt onsight 5.10 route in trad too. But as he think that trad is shit...I doubt! Or he practice the route ten times and did it by memory.
For a 5.12 sport climber...What did he have to learn? 5.13 is more a question of power and flexibility than using two rp's instead of a cam.  is it so difficult to understand? climbing non classic trad route at 5.8 is, for me, some thing that a climber can be proud because it is hard. remission is one of these route. I am just asking: who think that he have enought knowledge to climb it and who like to train to have that knowledge? I don't ask who want to do sport to climb trad because there is a difference.     

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #36 on: August 03, 2011, 06:15:57 AM »
Remission looks like a dark nasty wet chimny with crap gear. Why would I want to climb it ? Its not even good practice for the desert cause desert chimnys are totally different than eastern chimnys. In the east there is almost always small gear in the back of chimnys .. In the Desert they are almost always large gear, no gear or drilled angles/bolts.

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #37 on: August 03, 2011, 06:28:00 AM »
Guess what,   There are people who climb sport and trad   and there is little difference.   I have friends who climb equally very hard in both and clipping a bolt and placing gear is the same.  

I also know trad climbers who spend so much time placing gear that they pump out and can't do a route  that I've done with half the amount of gear because i concentrated on the climbing and placed gear when i needed it.   or can't get over the fact that a section is run out and you need to climb from one placement to another.  

wtf is 5.8-5.9  rope management??  every route from 5.easy to 5.hard as hell is the same.

5.11 can have better protection than some 5.7    rock is rock  you get what it gives you and that is not difficult to understand.  

Why does a non classic route have to be hard?    go to the gunks.. there are hundreds of non classic routes that eat gear, have shit gear, are easy for the grade, hard for the grade.  i've done like 3 routes on cathedral so i don't know what is so special about Remission you want to spray about so much but who cares.  


again,  i think you need to think less and climb more.    stop asking the same thing every week.  
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline frik

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #38 on: August 03, 2011, 09:13:36 AM »
Champ as they say; "Fish on!"

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #39 on: August 03, 2011, 09:34:02 AM »
I'm with Jake on this one. Lots of people climb lots of diff. types of climbing... it doesn't matter. There are tons of easy sport routes at places like Shelf Road and others. LOTS of bolted 5.8/9. 
It is a rare climber that only climbs one style now......


Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #40 on: August 03, 2011, 10:10:31 AM »
Lots of people climb lots of diff. types of climbing... it doesn't matter.  
It is a rare climber that only climbs one style now......

Admission is always great you admit that there ise different types of climbing.  why I speak of remission: first, the chimney is well protect. I was scary by all the story I heard, but it worth the trip. The scary place is in the second pitch and it is face climbing in a gully. I talk about remission because rope management look important in it because where you protect is not where you can fall. I could have talk about turner too. But there is a difference.
In an other post, you also state:
Quote
The correlation betweeen sport and trad is non sense  ............it doesn;t exist
when you ask a newbie what is the difference between sport and trad....? If you quote jakedack there is no difference. so one can climb each style without any other previous knowledge. If you read my post, I talk about some differennce and skill.
I try to define each style and skill so a nembye can decide what he like and train for what he want to do. it is a lot more different than all of the newby most climb sport and when you are going to be scary as shit at your shade because you climb over your helmet....I will bring you on trad climb so you will just want to do sport climbing. and, if you are injure...it is more fun because some of you are going to told them that they are so stupid because trad and sport are different and we, as a colectivity, don't focus on the importance for safety of these difference.

Offline strandman

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #41 on: August 03, 2011, 10:32:38 AM »
I don't think I called anyone stupid  ???
Yes placing pro takes skill, but the physical act of climbing is the same if the route is bolted or gear.  Routes like Airation are  more like sport climbs.

If a new climber wants to learn gear placements and trad climbing, they should realize that it takes time, just like the physical act  climbing.

I give up
« Last Edit: August 03, 2011, 10:46:05 AM by strandman »

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #42 on: August 03, 2011, 10:49:51 AM »
Lots of people climb lots of diff. types of climbing... it doesn't matter.   
It is a rare climber that only climbs one style now......

Admission is always great you admit that there ise different types of climbing.  why I speak of remission: first, the chimney is well protect. I was scary by all the story I heard, but it worth the trip. The scary place is in the second pitch and it is face climbing in a gully. I talk about remission because rope management look important in it because where you protect is not where you can fall. I could have talk about turner too. But there is a difference.
In an other post, you also state:
Quote
The correlation betweeen sport and trad is non sense  ............it doesn;t exist
when you ask a newbie what is the difference between sport and trad....? If you quote jakedack there is no difference. so one can climb each style without any other previous knowledge. If you read my post, I talk about some differennce and skill.
I try to define each style and skill so a nembye can decide what he like and train for what he want to do. it is a lot more different than all of the newby most climb sport and when you are going to be scary as shit at your shade because you climb over your helmet....I will bring you on trad climb so you will just want to do sport climbing. and, if you are injure...it is more fun because some of you are going to told them that they are so stupid because trad and sport are different and we, as a colectivity, don't focus on the importance for safety of these difference.


holy fuck,   there is not one sentence in that whole post that makes one bit of sense.   Please write in French then put it into Google translator.   

My first and only lead at Cathedral was The Saigons.   my friend handed me a pile of draws and like 3 cams and a few nuts and said have at it.    I was climbing 5.11 sport at the time and I had no issues.   

"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline jbrd528

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #43 on: August 03, 2011, 11:05:13 AM »
This entire thread should be deleated....

Offline sneoh

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Re: Where are 5.8 to 5.10 climber?
« Reply #44 on: August 03, 2011, 11:34:28 AM »
Yes placing pro takes skill, but the physical act of climbing is the same if the route is bolted or gear.  Routes like Airation are  more like sport climbs.

If a new climber wants to learn gear placements and trad climbing, they should realize that it takes time, just like the physical act  climbing.

I give up

+1.
We should all just give up on this thread.  The proverbial dead horse is now in a million little pieces and being carried away by bugs and ants.:)
« Last Edit: August 03, 2011, 11:49:09 AM by sneoh »

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ