Author Topic: Around the Corner  (Read 1683 times)

Offline dpen

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Around the Corner
« on: August 01, 2011, 10:13:33 PM »
Around the Corner (5.10)

Description:  Starts 15 ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the beech tree.  The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner.

Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt.  Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams).  When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge.  Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Gear: 7 bolts, 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru.   Cams are small to medium
Descent:  Single rope rappel from Tree Keys anchor.

History:  7/31/2011 -  Dave Penny, Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn 

Dave discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project.  Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.


Offline old_school

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2011, 10:17:12 PM »
Good send the other day Dave, really fun route and a nice addition to "The Hump"!  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline slink

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2011, 01:12:10 AM »
Dave looks like you will be leading when we climb. I am old and out of climbing shape. Looking forward to being home soon. We have been pushed back a bit.
 Jim
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline perswig

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2011, 07:03:23 AM »
Go, Dave!

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline dpen

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2011, 08:47:51 AM »
Thanks Jim and Dale, I look forward to catching up soon.  Hopefully you guys can get over to Humphrey's at some point and see what you think of this route.

Dave

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2011, 09:50:01 PM »
Nice job Dave. I can not wait to get on another test at the Ledge. Nice to run into you guys the other day. Enjoy.

J
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

Offline dpen

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2011, 10:46:35 PM »
Thx J.   Yeah,  let me know what you think.

Good to see you too.   Let's catch up before the seasons out...

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2011, 04:58:35 PM »
Now I have that nursery rhyme running through my head  :-\
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2011, 07:42:18 AM »
cool guys... nice to have some more trad routes in the Geriatric Walls that are a bit harder. how about a picture?
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2011, 08:11:31 AM »
cool guys... nice to have some more trad routes in the Geriatric Walls that are a bit harder. how about a picture?

WE should have a few by this weekend  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2011, 07:54:41 PM »
Now I have that nursery rhyme running through my head  :-\

Jack & Jill went.........

Sing along Mark

Offline old_school

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2011, 08:44:37 PM »
There are 8 bolts on Around the corner and a couple of gear placement opportunities between the first and second bolt (20'). It is a really fun route...a bit pumpy in spots and thought provoking on the upper crux.  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2011, 06:37:47 PM »
Great addition to the Hump...and job on the clean up. Nice send today..thanks for the chalked crimper on the right at the crux... ;) nice rock...good find.

J
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

Offline dpen

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2011, 12:04:51 PM »
Hey J, way to go, glad you liked it.

What do you think of the rating?

D

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Around the Corner
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2011, 01:31:52 PM »
Hey there Dave...the rating I think is good. The route/crux definately holds your attention for a few moves and is well protected to not hit the ledge  :). I do not know if a bolt was added or not as I only needed to get one cam in between bolts low down to keep it safe. Once again thanks to everyone involved to make this a great area to climb... ;)

J
Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"