Author Topic: conditions - what do you think?  (Read 708 times)

Offline Admin Al

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conditions - what do you think?
« on: March 04, 2004, 05:06:41 pm »
so I've been out several times over the past week & posted what I think about the state of things. what do you think? is it worth going out any more, or shoudl we all look for dry rock?

Al
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Offline ccclimber

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2004, 10:21:05 pm »
gonna stay in ice mode...at least for this weekend...next week who knows???
Ed

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2004, 04:40:00 am »
North faceing fat climbs will probobly hang in there for awhile. What we really need is a good rainstorm with the temp turning sharply colder after. say temps hovering arround zero for a week. then maby the Dike would come in for a last Hurrah ;D

Offline scottie_c

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2004, 08:48:37 am »
either way, any type of climbing is the preferred past time.

there is still plenty of ice to climb in VT.
-> smuggs has blue ice bulge, blue room, driving force, ent gully, and jeff slide. all in nice shape considering.
-> townline is north facing and in the woods. in pretty good shape too.

... rumor has it, mnt washington still has some good ice climbing too.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2004, 06:13:36 am »
went over to Frankenstein yesterday, Sunday, with Sam Moton from Sterling. we got there about 8:45 and there was only one car in the lot. dunno why but I expected a lot more. one other party pulled up a couple of minutes later with an EMS guide and client heading for Standard.

we didn't have a lot of time so we just hit on Pegasus. it was in great condition tho a little sun baked on the upper pillars. what was really interesting was how much the upper area had built over the last few weeks. there is a lot of water running & according to Bill King it's been cold at night so I'm not surprised. the party from Mass. (Tony & Mike) whose car we saw in the lot did the rock finish & they said it was good. even Hobbit looked fine. while we were climbing a lot of stuff fell off in the Widow's Walk area. we hiked around & looked over Chia. while I suppose it's doable, I didn't like it. there was a large crack on the Direct and I think when that comes down the whole thing might become unstable.

back at the parking area at 11:30 there were now about 10 cars. it started to sleet & rain & went back & forth between the two all the way back to the Valley and continued most of the day. we quickly rode up the road when to check on Standard and Dracula. there were several parties on Standard, both sides. it looks as if it's getting pretty thin down low, but OK up high. there was nobody on Dracula, but I'd be surprised if nobody was doing it.

it's really cold today (Monday) but is going to warm up through the week. if it gets sunny all bets are off.

BTW there are a couple of new pix in the Instant Ice report on the site.

Al
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Offline scottie_c

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2004, 01:00:08 pm »
 8)
Quote
either way, any type of climbing is the preferred past time.

there is still plenty of ice to climb in VT.
-> smuggs has blue ice bulge, blue room, driving force, ent gully, and jeff slide. all in nice shape considering.
-> townline is north facing and in the woods. in pretty good shape too.

... rumor has it, mnt washington still has some good ice climbing too.


conditions are still in prime shape 8)

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2004, 06:00:15 pm »
I didn't think anything would be left when I got back from the gunks and couldn't believe seeing Elephanthead Gully in Crawford tonight.  Stuff is hanging in there.  There was this on little waterfall before the Uberfall off the carriage road that froze up both nights and looked almost climbable, and fell off both afternoons.  Cool to watch how fast a climb can go in and out.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2004, 06:00:54 pm by DLottmann »

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2004, 08:29:35 pm »
Conditions in smuggs . the west wall is in Allmost mid winter conditions. make the right decisions about avalanch danger in the blind fate Area. South wall still has blue room and Dougs. daves snott will lose the first 100 ft. in any kind of thaw  that lasts more than a day. I hear that Jeffs slide and workout wall are fat. I am ready for some nice warm sunny safe rock after todays avalanch trying to get to Blind Fate and the subsequent adventure in thin  hollow slush and melted out screws on daves snot 8)

DLottmann

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2004, 08:39:23 pm »
Quote
I am ready for some nice warm sunny safe rock after todays avalanch


Details man?  What happened?  Natural, triggered? blah blah blah?

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2004, 07:08:35 am »
 Â 8) Just as we arrived at the south wall 3 guys on an ATV zipped in ahead of us ??? Looking for a little solitude and thinking that there wasen't really that much snow (about 3 inches on the road) we  headded up to Blind Fate. We were supprised to find that that whole side was totaly loaded. We were taking turns breaking trail up the left side of the gully  (very close to the trees)  The snow seemed pretty stable down low but the higher we got the more the sun was hammering it and it felt funky. Bob was breaking trail and about thigh deep when i told him to get us out of the gully and up on the ridge. We were on the ridge about 3-5 min when the gully slid. the fracture point was  about 75 ft. above us at the ice bulge at the top of the gully. It was total cement and very powerfull. I was very concerned about a sun triggered avalanch of heavy cement killing us if we tryed to cross the bottom of the Blue ice bulge gullyand the steep snow feild to the base of Blind fate. Also concerned about the chute above Blind fate letting go with a big load of cement while we were on the climb. I belive that this can also happen on Blue ice bulge. There were several powder avalanches last Thurs when i was up there with scotti C. One went over our heads while Scotti was  leading the first pitch. It was pretty cool but that was 3 inches of fluff not thigh deep cement :o I called it and we boogied back down to the south wall which was melting fast but looked solid and fat. The first 100 ft looked a bit sctechy but I figured no big deal. It was thinner and softer than it looked for the first 50 meters  and a bit nerve wracking untill i got us up on the thicker ice.  Pretty fun up top and steep. I actualy had a stubbi melt out and slide down the rope on the first pitch. I suplemented the belay with a thread as the screws were getting wobbly. Felt pretty funky about haveing 3 people on it so I climbed FAST.  I belive my exact words were "see you guys, I got to get the F#$k out of here" I figured that the quicker I got on the good ice up higher the safer it was for everyone 8)
« Last Edit: March 25, 2004, 07:12:18 am by tradmanclimbz »

Offline scottie_c

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2004, 08:18:04 am »
was up there monday nite, hoping for fresh turns in that gully and the next...

turned out to be windslab heaven with huge avy danger...
but we ripped it anyways with no big slides

tradman,
you did daves yesterday?
we did it on saturday. had a mixed scramble start to base of ice flow, 3 screws on first pitch -fun climbing- then a fat -steeper than normal- 2nd pitch. blue room was baked out and really hard ice.

the ice is in full effect

DLottmann

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2004, 09:05:50 am »
Quote
turned out to be windslab heaven with huge avy danger...
but we ripped it anyways with no big slides

??? You assessed it as "huge avy danger" and "ripped it anyways"... hey, it's your life....

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2004, 09:26:11 am »
 8) Second pitch was awsome and steep but the thin start was really getting hammered by the sun and pretty freaky. Like i said my first screw melted out and slid back down the rope :o ther was so much fresh new snow up by blind fate that we couldn't even find your tracks from monday.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2004, 09:32:33 am »
 8) if it gets cold after this thaw and firms back up the aproach will be safe and Blind Fate and Blue ice bulge will be AWSOME

Offline scottie_c

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Re: conditions - what do you think?
« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2004, 02:31:00 pm »
Quote

??? You assessed it as "huge avy danger" and "ripped it anyways"... hey, it's your life....


point taken.
maybe i did not explain well enough...
our assessment for above the cliffs would be that there is huge avy danger. we dug a few pits in the approach gullys and deemed them stable enough to go on.
i was on a snowboard using head lamp at night, not climbing.

sorry for any alarm or misjudgement of my integrity