Author Topic: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney  (Read 350 times)

Offline jayconway

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Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« on: March 05, 2004, 09:25:07 AM »
I am going to start this out with a short story:

A friend of mine was on Table of Colors at Red River gorge, a route with fixed draws, fell at the upper crux with the draw at his knees and ¦ ¦SNAP the biner (hanger end) breaks. Now this was no big deal he was 60 feet up he fell 10 or 15 feet more than he should have, it was all air.

Now biners breaking while extremely rare, can break, and fixed draws are part of the cause, especially ones at the cruxes on routes. I haven,t been to Rumney much in the last year but I have been a few times, and there are just way to many fixed draws on routes. I am not really talking about people,s draws they leave on their projects, but fixed draws on routes like Technosurfing and Social Outcast. What is the point of fixing the top 2 draws on Social Outcast? It doesn,t make cleaning the route any easier. And why are there fixed draws on Techno? To make it worse the fixed draws up there are crap. At the start of the bulge there is an old faded draw with a biner that you have to close after clipping, and then after that at the crux a straight gate omega on an old faded draw. I know plenty of people warm up on this route and don,t want to have to clean it. But what about the person who has Techno as their project?

Just my thoughts.

I would hate to see someone get hurt at Rumney because of a biner breaking.  I also hate old crappy gear that I have no idea the history of.

Jay Conway

Offline er

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Re: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2004, 12:45:48 PM »
I'm not much of a sport climber..so I'll ask..what is a fixed draw?

simply a draw that is left on a bolt?  Must be more to it than that...or the answer is simple.  Unclip, and toss.

Offline Luca

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Re: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2004, 01:12:44 PM »
It's called abandoned private property aka "booty".

If you don't like what is clipped to the bolt, remove it and clip your own gear. It's your life. Other people can bitch and moan as much as they want about their fixed mank. I'd be happy to return it if they want it back.


Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2004, 03:42:48 PM »
Seems like a no brainer to replace the crap fixed draw with your own trusty gear while working a project. I personaly think that all climbs should be cleaned when you are finished working them.  IT is not so hard if you know how to jug ;D

Offline jayconway

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Re: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2004, 05:11:09 PM »
I see what your saying, but this isn't a project for me. I just don't like garbage gear up there. And by the way on the hanger end of these there are quicklinks, not so easy to "unclip and toss"

jay

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Unnecessary Fixed Draws at Rumney
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2004, 05:35:32 PM »
5/16th Quick links are fine for bail off and 3/8th for rap anchors but they certainly arn't CE or UIAA certified for catching lead falls. There is a fixed quick link at the crux of a short hard climb near me. I got sick of haveing to screw arroud up there cleaning booty biners and draws. a buddy of mine was on his way up so I said, " take this quick link in case you don't make it" He didn't make it and that link has been there for 3 years now. Still get the ocasional bail off booty draw off of that bolt ;D I allways strongly sugest to anyone working the rt to make sure that they clip their draw directly into the BOLT HANGER, NOT THE QUICK LINK. It is the 3rd bolt and it would be possible to ground out if you blew it with an armfull of rope while clipping the 4th bolt and that 5/16th bail link busted :o Darwinism at work if the gym rats don't know what to do when I'm not there ::)