Author Topic: Roped solo  (Read 413 times)

Offline mtnperson

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Roped solo
« on: March 08, 2004, 12:24:42 pm »
I have seen various "techniques" of roped soloing but wondered who likes what.....
whether it be some contrived method of using a soloist, tying off and cleaning, whatever.
Prize awarded for coolest idea. ;)
(not)
it's not that life's too short.....
it's that you're dead so long.

Offline Admin Al

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Roped solo
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2004, 06:11:10 pm »
I assume that you are talking about on ice since you are in this forum... interesting concept. I've never tried rope soloing on ice. I've done a lot on rock over the last few years and I would figure it is similar, tho probably more dangerous for the obvious reasons. I have used a Soloist on rock & don't think it would work well with icy ropes.

I'm interested to hear how people might do this.

Al
« Last Edit: March 08, 2004, 06:12:31 pm by admin »
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Roped solo
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2004, 04:00:19 am »
The only way i have done it was to tie off short. pain in the butt. Only did it for about 40 ft .  just once. next time i will probobly downclimb or bail off unless it is an FA attempt ;D Tr'd once many years ago with a jumar. the rope got iced up and the jumar slid right down the rope :P better off free soloing on ice 8)

Offline mtnperson

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Re: Roped solo
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2004, 04:58:36 am »
yeah...know what ya mean about slippery ascenders.
I have set up tops up in Champney on a few occaisions with a petzl basic so i could do a few laps by myself.... and if the rope gets crusty it is not so fun! :-/
but I have never figured out any good ground up ways to solo ice and protect myself...
hmmmm.
it's not that life's too short.....
it's that you're dead so long.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Roped solo
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2004, 06:41:26 am »
 8) One thing you might try on really steep ice is a trick i use ocasionaly rock climbing.    Fix your line to a bomber anchor,  Tie an overhand loop at a hight that you can safely climb to but high enough so even with rope stretch you won't ground out.  I usualy  go for a point about 25 ft off the deck. Now solo up to the loop,clip into it with 2 locking biners and have at it. If you blow the top out you take the huge bunjee jump but shouldn't deck out. Personaly I would NEVER pull this stunt on ice ::) Pretty fun rock climbing trick if you get bored soloing easy stuff and can't find a rope slave. I have never tested the actual fall?   Dan Osman used to rope jump all the time and look were it got him :o basicly you should ignore this advice if you have any brains at all ;D

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Roped solo
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2004, 08:11:28 am »
I was going to mention something similar to tradmanclimbz's idea, but I didn't. so here goes...

1) fix your rope at the top to a totally bombproof anchor point

2) tie a series of figure eight's on a bite approximately every 8-10 feet

3) clip 2 slings/draws into your harness through the belay loop. use lockers on both ends.

4) climb as usual, alternately clipping the loops with the draws being sure to clip the higher one BEFORE you unclip the lower.

NOTE 1 - you will have significant rope stretch in the system, so if you blow it in the first 20-25 feet you will likely crater! this is different that if you are leading the climb.

NOTE 2 - you still have the problem on ice of catching a crampon & screwing your ankle(s).

I have not done this myself, but I have seen others do it on rock and I feel pretty certain that it would work.

Al
Al Hospers
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