Author Topic: Can You Believe It?  (Read 581 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Can You Believe It?
« on: September 19, 2011, 05:28:51 PM »
Can You Believe It? ( 5.8 )

Directions:  Humphrey's Ledge - Hike up the hill to the cliff and go left about 100'. When you get to the Shifty Eyes face, the climb will be 20' right of the buttress that's just right of Shifty Eyes.  The climb is located on a clean gray slab, between Straight Up and Giuoco Piano.

Description: Fun climbing, but arguably a 5.8 climb for 5.9 leaders. The final 20' from the last gear placement to the anchor is easy friction climbing but with no protection. The anchor can also be used to toprope both African Queen and Straight Up.

Pitch 1: Traverse right on a small ledge to a short left-facing corner (gear). pull over onto the slab and find a solution pocket (Tricam) up and a little left. Continue up and right past 2 more pockets (Tricams) on easy ground to a 2-bolt anchor on the headwall. 45' ( 5.8 )

Gear: Green Alien and small/medium Camelot for the corner plus the pink, red and blue Tricams.

Descent: rappel from the 2-bolt anchor

History: September 19, 2011 - Al Hospers and Brad White. Al found the line one day when he and Brad were playing around on Under Toe and Shifty Eyes. He cleaned out the initial gear placements in the corner, but wasn't sure it would go without a bolt. About a month later he was out with Joe & Judy Perez, lowered down on it and found the Tricam placements, but they didn't have any Tricams! A week later he came back and led it with Brad.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2011, 05:52:00 PM by Admin Al »
Al Hospers
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Offline strandman

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2011, 05:40:50 PM »
Youre gonna get it AL- a 20' runout on a 45' climb   ;)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2011, 05:42:11 PM »
you know you're probably right John... [LOL]
Al Hospers
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Offline Dave

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2011, 08:08:50 PM »
Youre gonna get it AL- a 20' runout on a 45' climb   ;)

5 bolts would be just about perfect to cover that kind of desperate runout! ;D
« Last Edit: September 19, 2011, 08:10:26 PM by Dave »

Offline Jeff

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2011, 11:51:00 AM »
What is the world coming to? A 20 foot runout on N. Conway granite slab? :'( :o  Truly an elitist mentality!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2011, 12:48:19 PM »
you guys....
Al Hospers
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Offline sneoh

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2011, 02:20:09 PM »
Must be a slow (climbing) news day ....
Tri-cams saved the day! :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2011, 02:38:01 PM »
pretty slow, for sure.

IMHO only the Tricams will fit in the 3 pockets...
Al Hospers
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Offline Jeff

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2011, 04:46:01 PM »
I'm waiting for Strandman to remind us he'd prefer groundfall to using a Tricam ;D

Offline strandman

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2011, 07:16:36 PM »
I'm still shakin' over the 20' runout... :o 

Pink tricam = groundfall

Al- you got a route on your hands that will never get repeated and fade to lichen... according to some :D

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Can You Believe It?
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2011, 09:16:01 PM »
[LOL]

no tricams = 35' runout...
Al Hospers
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my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com