Author Topic: Gunks favorites  (Read 1313 times)

Offline tinker

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Gunks favorites
« on: October 07, 2011, 05:09:18 PM »
Heading down to the Gunk's for a long weekend soon.  I have been quite a few times and have done some of the classics (high e, Bonnie's etc) and some not  :so classics.  Just curious to hear of others Favorites or "must do routes" I always like to check out new stuff.   :)

Offline David_G48

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2011, 06:24:04 PM »
Try Double Crack, Modern Times, Arrow and Wasp. Just a few recommendations based on the levels that you have climbed. Also, try Something Interesting to Danglers just to add spice at the end of the climb. Even if you do not do Danglers, Something Interesting is a great climb.
Gunks is a great place to climb even when it is crowded.
Cheers
David

Offline sneoh

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2011, 07:50:35 PM »
So many.  Where do I begin with the non 'big names'?  Something Interesting is great.  Do it from the ground to the GT Ledge in one pitch; about 130 feet I think. Do not use up all the gear you have in the first 100 feet just because you can.
Others in no particular order - Dirty Gerdie, Horseman, Strictly From Nowhere, Limelight, Higher Stannard, Birdie Party, Airy Aria, Spring or Winter (I cannot remember which one I liked better), and Drunkard's Delight if you want to find out how hard a Gunks 7+ can be.  If you like thin face, you can add Pas de Duex, Sente, and Never Never Land.  Over at The Nears; Alphonse, Broken Sling, Farewell To Arms, and Elder Cleavage (my 1st Gunks 5.10!).
I am sure I missed many great climbs in my list but have fun, be safe, and tell us how the trip turned out!

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2011, 09:18:41 PM »
Limelight, Arrow and 3 Doves are all great and I really like Frogland and Middle Earth too.
Al Hospers
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Offline strandman

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2011, 05:28:04 PM »
most of my faves are at Skytop so.... :(

Never never land is good

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2011, 12:52:47 AM »
drunkards is .8- in williams.   ;)     Definitely good if you like boulder problems.  (and have a small crashpad to bring)

Son of Easy O  is also super fun.   I wish "p2"  went on for another 5-10 pitches. 

if you like steep with bomber gear Modern times kicks ass.   it's 5.8  don't let the hype scare you. 

if you've done Bonnies  you should do Ant's Line.  as good if not better. 

Laurel and  Strickley's   are my favorites at .7     strictlys to shockleys is classic. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline sneoh

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2011, 08:30:59 AM »
Jake,
Nice seeing you on Sun.  Finally was able to place a face to the 'voice' on the internet.
You let the cat out of the bag about Drunkard's. :)  Years ago when I led it on a chilly, misty morning (did not know any better), we had no pad so I was going to try to land on my backpack if I came off before I could get the first piece in.  It was quite the eye-opener. 

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2011, 08:40:23 AM »
Yea.. my boulder training kicked in..  went up the rail twice to chalk up a few holds  then fired it for real.   I found that bottom section harder than Son of Easy O  but easier than P1 Columbia. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline old_school

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2011, 10:23:41 AM »
Ant Line is fantastic! Frogland gets a vote as does Arrow. Son of easy O is fun, but if you are looking for fun exposure and great moves...CCK was one of my favorites.
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Jeff

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2011, 11:08:43 AM »
I've seen a couple of mentions of Frogland at the Gunks-- I think people are thinking of Frog's Head-- the Frogland I know is in Red Rocks, Nev. and it is also very good, at a similar standard, but a long drive for a weekend for many on this site ;D

Offline old_school

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2011, 11:48:09 AM »
I've seen a couple of mentions of Frogland at the Gunks-- I think people are thinking of Frog's Head-- the Frogland I know is in Red Rocks, Nev. and it is also very good, at a similar standard, but a long drive for a weekend for many on this site ;D

Frog Head it is...still have Red Rocks on the brain Jeff!!  ;D
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2011, 12:01:54 PM »
Frogs Head is correct. I did that last fall. great climb. CCK is fantastic exposure with moderate moves.
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2011, 12:11:51 PM »
Birdland on the other hand exists in both areas (Red Rocks and The Gunks) and both come equally recommended. Though I have never climbed the Gunks version. It's still on my list.... ;)
« Last Edit: October 11, 2011, 12:55:00 PM by old_school »
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline sneoh

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2011, 05:54:55 PM »
Frog's Head tends to suffer from overcrowding on a moderately busy weekend, even 15 years ago.
I have heard that Maria is v. good but I have never been on it.  Probably less busy anyway.
Step it up a number grade; Strictly, Limelight, and Something Interesting are all better in my opinion.
Alphonse is a v. good route at Near Trapps, not so well known so it tends not to be crowded.  Check it out.  Especially you, Jake.

City Lights (near Frog's Head) is also a v. good one, a little nervy but not too scary.  P2 was a little dirty years ago and route finding was harder than the crux itself!  I remember cleaning out a horizontal crack so I could get a bomber placement near the top of P2.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Gunks favorites
« Reply #14 on: October 11, 2011, 06:13:59 PM »
Alphonse is on my list.  along with Birdland for the nears. 

Maria is fun..  you have to be solid enough to do the beginning of Frogs head with no gear until you get to the traverse so you won't have rope drag.   Or get lucky and have someone cleaning frogs head behind you and clip one of their pieces then have them clean it for you :)   P2 is really fun.  P3 i haven't led yet because it scared me a bit following haha one of those "5.6 my ass" sorta moves. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing