I read the first page of this thread, then decided to offer a possibly interesting perspective. Forgive me if I have gone through this before, but I am old and forgetful.
Back in '95 ML, Doc, and I did an ice FA on Cow Rock in NC that as far as I know has never seen a second. Probably because it fell down about 60 min later and nearly killed us. It's not everyone that nearly gets killed in an avalanche in NC. We named it Graphic Violence, which may also deter repeats.
Anyway, we then moved around the cliff and found a chest clutching virgin rock line. Came back a month later, and when Doc and I got to the top of P3 we figured the route was basically done. There was still 150' of cliff left, but it looked like the typical 5.6 dome.
Doc didn't even want to mess with the trivial stuff, so started another FA to the right (Deuces Wild). ML and I went up to finish off the first route and led off the last pitch, and I was evidently climbing like sh!t. It felt really hard for 5.6. After mantling into a move that I realized half way through would blow the belay and send us both to the ground, I got into a water groove. I still remember swearing at myself for being such a weeny on easy ground. Got a tipped out #2 TCU in up higher before finding a thank God flake 30' above it. I was still pissed that I had been such a weeny, and happy to get gear in.
The mantle is now concensus .10c/d. The groove above, .10a/RR+. The commitment grade is completely due to ignorance on the FA, I would have drilled if I didn't think I would be abused for being a weeny for drilling on such 'easy' ground. Skyhedral is now considered one of the classic climbs of NC. I still get calls every couple of years from people who want permission to put a bolt on that groove (a friend of mine put in a two bolt belay to safeguard the belay without asking me, and I briefly thought of chopping that, but, screw it), but the feedback I get from most is that the spice at the end 400' off the deck moves the climb from classic to 'Top 10'. My attitude is, I did it on sight, you can too knowing it goes. No retro, and I will make a special trip to chop any retros.