How about someone that just isn't good at slab? I can climb .12 sport routes.. either short bouldery routes or steep overhanging... can also do steep .8-10 trad routes... but I do not like doing low angle slab routes even if they are easier. What if I'd try to campus Modern Times before getting on Arrow?
I know that we can be more slab, face or crack climber. We can categorize the climber in those way. But, what this bring to safety? Why nobody talk about that biking is more interesting than climbing? Why sport climber want so much that the knowledge of more than 50 years of climbing bring to our sport will be ignore and bolt will be the master of all protection?
I did modern time (the overhang of course
, the traverse is not totaly master
) and I think that I did Arrow too). I try to climb at the same level on sight on each kind of move. For that reason, I will never probably climb 5.12, except if I try one route many time.... as it was habitualy done in sport. I don't boder you with my personal ethic.
But when safety is in case... I talk. Trad is more like some one going to a big hike. He prepare himself to have any thing on his way in a lite pack. Technique is one of his preparation. Sport is more like looking for a performance to show the hability of the climber. If you look in the beginer section, you will see that a sport climber will ask which route I should do to be consider a good ice climber. a trad climber will ask which technique I must master to have fun at a determine level when I climb. after the trad climber will look in a book to see the name of route that he can try. Isn't it the reason to wrote guide book? For crampon technique, a route like Gothic is very fun 9front and french technique, ice and snow). But to put in a CV...you are not going to impress your employer.
