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Author Topic: Whats the best slab shoe  (Read 1496 times)

frik

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Whats the best slab shoe
« on: November 08, 2011, 01:05:17 PM »

I've been using la sportiva's mythos for quite a while now and like them for general purpose climbing.
I think for hard slabby work they are ok but not great.
Any opinions ?


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strandman

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2011, 02:43:37 PM »

If they still make it, no doubt the Boreal Ninja..  Gotta toughen up the toes a bit for max usage though... I also like my Red Chili velcro's
« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 05:37:28 PM by strandman »
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DLottmann

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2011, 03:37:25 PM »

IMO for 5.7 and under- 5.10 Guide Tennies. Itís all I wear on Standard Route or Sliding Board on Whitehorse. They work a little better as the little circles wear down.

Menís & Womenís : http://www.ems.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=guide%20tennie&origkw=Guide+Tennie&sr=1

5.8 and up, 5.10 VMile is what I am in now, very comfy all day trad shoe.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=five+ten+vmile&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#q=five+ten+vmile&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=SpO5TtOfEdDo2gXds-ydBw&ved=0CE0QrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=dff7c0f88e4ddd58&biw=1024&bih=684

EMS doesnít carry them, but can special order emí.

-disclaimer, ya I work for EMS.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 03:39:25 PM by DMan »
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sneoh

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2011, 08:57:36 PM »

So what are people's thoughts about whether a soft shoe or harder shoe is better for hard(er) slabs?
I think some hard slabs were climbed with Sportiva Megas which are stiff as anything ever made.

What I know is all these modern aggressive, toe-down, asymmetric soled shoes are pretty hopeless on true slabs (not to be lumped together with thin, technical face).

Edit: Mythos is a very good all-around shoe.  I had 3 pairs of them before I discovered Miuras which are better on thin face than Mythos.  That said, I think Mythos might be better on pure slab than Miuras although I feel quite comfortable smearing with my fully broken-in Miuras (which are soft enough to feel OK on 30 deg overhung routes).

« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 09:12:21 PM by sneoh »
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old_school

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2011, 08:01:00 AM »

I am climbing 5.11 slab in my Galileos and really like how they perform. One word of caution however is that the new design feels a bit more aggressive than it use to be with a bit more pressure on the heel in an effort to make it perform better on edge. Mine are starting to soften a bit, and as the rubber wears away, the sensitivity is getting better....so, like wine, the galileos seem to get better with age.
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strandman

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2011, 10:57:49 AM »

My old Mega's were great, with S2 rubber of course.  A toe down design will kill you on slabs
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sneoh

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #6 on: November 09, 2011, 07:32:37 PM »

Assume you have a great pair of shoes for slabs and and technical face and you need to give them a resole.
Which rubber would you choose?
I used C4 many moons ago for about two years and found that they wear too fast and are really prone to 'pitting'.  Annoying.
Since then, I have stayed with 4mm XS or XSV the past 10+ yeras and do not have a lot to complain about.
How is the Five Ten Oynx?  A lot of shoes come with it out of the box, including the Galileo.


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Admin Al

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2011, 08:57:00 PM »

I know it's counterintuitive, but the Tommy Caldwell's are great on slab. heck, they're great on everything...
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Jeff

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #8 on: November 09, 2011, 10:20:22 PM »

My favorites have been--1st Megas--discontinued, 2nd Synchros--Discontinued,  now Tradmasters --you guessed it--seemingly discontinued!  But I have 2 pair which have been resoled once each and a brand new pair in the box on a shelf in my gear room  ;D ;D   My feet are tough to fit (pretty extreme Morton's toe on each foot) and I hate that shoes are discontinued just when I find one which really works and can be worn in some degree of comfort. As for downturned toes on a slab-- I shudder to think of the pain I'd suffer! I can't even wear them on over hanging boulders where I have much less weight on my feet. I'm happy with the original tradmaster rubber but have had them resoled with C4, FWIW
« Last Edit: November 09, 2011, 10:23:09 PM by Jeff »
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old_school

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Re: Whats the best slab shoe
« Reply #9 on: November 10, 2011, 11:58:35 AM »

C4 pits like crazy but sticks like glue. I maintained my C4 with sandpaper and paint thinner...worked like a charm. Onyx is far better IMHO, but after a season or so, it too will begin to degrade and break down a bit...certainly not as fast as the C4. I think as long as you stay up with sole maintenence and take care of them, you should get a solid couple of seasons out of the Onyx if not more.

I personally had two very bad experiences with the XS Edge that Sportiva equipts its TC PRo with, I thought the rubber sucked  >:( , but to each his own. I sold the shoes after a pretty poor showing at Humphrey's and then again at the SOuth Butt. Someone got a good deal on a pair of very comfortable shoes. If I do it all over again, I will buy a pair of used TC pros and resole them immediately with Onyx...best of both worlds.   ;)
« Last Edit: November 10, 2011, 12:04:56 PM by old_school »
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."
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