Author Topic: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6  (Read 729 times)

Offline climbingchimp

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« on: March 27, 2004, 10:29:38 AM »
Hi all...

Have anyone of you done Wiessner's Dike before on Cannon Cliff?  I'd like to climb it tomorrow but am worried about water and ice that might still be lingering around.  

Any details on the climb itself would be great!  

Thanks!  8)

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4529
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2004, 11:34:25 AM »
 ???I am not sure but think that the dike may have been affected by last springs massive rockfall. Spring is pretty scary up there.

Offline climbingchimp

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2004, 12:23:49 PM »
Damn.  Do you have any reccomendations then?  Is White Horse a good option?

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2004, 12:30:46 PM »
I posted this on your other post.

I climbed it a couple times 8 years ago.  Route finding is tricky, and lots of loose rock up in the "Cannon Gardens".  I would think there is probably alot of stuff lying around on and above the route this early in the season, and exercise extreme caution.  Probably some wet streaks if it hasn't been getting much sun the last few days to.  Lakeview may be a slightly safer option, since you can bail off to the right almost anywhere on it for what ever reason, or the Whit if you are a solid 5.8 leader.  

That said Whitehorse slabs are soaked... what grade are you comfortable leading and I may make a suggestion.

Offline DWarriner

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 506
  • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2004, 06:02:45 AM »
This is probably too late but....

I would not do Weisner's right now.  Spring is a bad time for rockfall, Cannon is a bad cliff for rockfall, that area of the cliff just saw significant rockfall.  

I did it about 10 years ago and was not particularly impressed.   We renamed the climb, "Weisner's Victory Garden," and have never been back.  

-David

There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

Offline xmikeyx

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 75
  • The Patron Saint of Engineering
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2004, 02:21:21 PM »
Wiessner's Dike certainly didn't impress me when I did it. Lots of loose rock, lots of place to get lost on the middle section of the route, and gernally not that great of climbing.  :-/ Last Fall I wandered across the base of Cannon through the old "zone" and into the new "zone" below what used to be the Old Man to check out the routes. It looked to me like Most of Wiessner's Dike got through the rockfall without lots of damage, but I wouldn't be surprised if the middle pitches were extra loose now. I wouldn't recommend the route at all, never mind first thing in the Spring.
I heard the W/G ridge is already getting done. Moby Grape might be good too, as that's usually considered to be one of the more solid parts of Cannon. Some of it might be wet/icy still though. Not sure about the conditions yet, but I'm pretty sure you won't catch me up that cliff until around June.
Climb hard, climb smart or fall...That's all there is to it.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7988
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2004, 04:45:40 PM »
one thing to be aware of, and it's not all that obvious... tho it is nice & warm on sunny days like we've had recently, it's cold at night. even here in the Valley there is frost on my car at 6 AM. that means that in places like Canon there is still ice in the nooks & crannies. that means that the freeze/thaw cycle is still going on in force. this can keep happening as late as the first of May some years. many people think that's what happened to the Old Man. Couple that with the fact the the rock that got loosened in the early winter is now coming loose, and you have a recipe for disaster. as far as I'm concerned, you just don't want to be up on Canon in early Spring.

Al
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline climbingchimp

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2004, 11:34:17 AM »
 ::) thanks for the heads up.  I was a little leary to go up there to begin with but now I'll certainly avoid it until things dry up.

Are there any rock routes you all would reccomend now?  I just want to get out some where in Crawford or Franconia Notch that doesn't include axes and crampons...

Maybe I'm just dreaming...  :P

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7988
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2004, 12:33:30 PM »
just got back from climbing on Cathedral all morning. Humphrey's is fine as is the south buttress of Whitehorse. I saw people climbing on Sea Of Holes on Whitehorse as well. I would imagine that Square Ledge is just fine when the sun is out. if you climb 5.10 or above Sundown is great.

there is plenty to do right now.

Al
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline climbingchimp

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2004, 12:47:03 PM »
thanks! I'll head that way this weekend.  8)

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4529
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Wiessner's Dike III 5.6
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2004, 03:52:42 PM »
Inferno 5.8 on the south buttress of White horse should be dry? I don't think there is anything much easier than that over there?