Author Topic: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass  (Read 12635 times)

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs Moderator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1817
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #90 on: December 09, 2016, 01:03:11 PM »
Damn that looks nice mark... 25 degrees on Sunday. I'll hold the rope if you are ambitious. PM me if interested.

Tempting but the approach would probably be pretty beastly with the gate closed (maybe 14 miles rt) to most likely find it iced up. I might ski/snowshoe out there this winter some time just to see what it is like though, as I haven't done that from the north yet. Will let you know.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7963
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Winterlude
« Reply #91 on: January 09, 2017, 10:46:52 AM »
Brad White and I climbed Winterlude off the Kanc on Friday. It was a real thrash getting in there, even with snowshoes. There was just enough crust to float on top for a step or two, and then you were through and up to your knees! The climb was pretty good, tho as is often the case now, the top out was poor. If you are going to climb it, I suggest going up the middle and then trend left. That way you can hook the tree up there. FWIW I would probably give it another week!

There are several other climbs up there that I did last year, but they aren't IN yet. Apparently someone else was up there, probably before the ice mess, but after the big snow storm. I'd be interested to know what they were doing or if they climbed anything.

I have noticed there there are a number of bolted rock climbs on the right side of the cliff, plus some pretty interesting cracks. I've never been in there in the summer and I would imagine it's fairly humid since the face is somewhat mossy.

The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Albany Covered Bridge over the Swift River, on the opposite side of the road. You can park on the road right now, but not always. it depends on if the plows have winged it out. Of course you can always park in the lot by the covered bridge. It always comes in fairly fat by mid-season.
« Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 12:48:57 PM by Admin Al »
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline DGoguen

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 350
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #92 on: January 09, 2017, 12:00:52 PM »
The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Saco Covered Bridge
Albany covered bridge on the Swift.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2017, 12:05:59 PM by DGoguen »
Don't Climb

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7963
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #93 on: January 10, 2017, 12:48:12 PM »
The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Saco Covered Bridge
Albany covered bridge on the Swift.

yes, sorry... that is absolutely correct

Albany & Swift it is...

have you been there?
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline DGoguen

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 350
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #94 on: January 10, 2017, 04:01:46 PM »


yes, sorry... that is absolutely correct

Albany & Swift it is...

have you been there?
600 yards east of the Saco River covered bridge might put you in the Shure Fine parking lot. Ha Ha

Last time into Winterlude was maybe 20 years ago. I should revisit.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Don't Climb

Offline JChepes

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 131
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #95 on: April 29, 2017, 08:26:18 PM »
Passaconaway Road is open all the way.

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 772
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #96 on: April 30, 2017, 06:03:13 AM »
Got my first black fly bite yesterday, zone 5 western mass at 1,100 feet.   Better get it while it's not buggy, won't be long now for the MWV.
Informative Informative x 1 View List

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7963
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #97 on: May 03, 2017, 08:14:30 AM »
Got my first black fly bite yesterday, zone 5 western mass at 1,100 feet.   Better get it while it's not buggy, won't be long now for the MWV.

I'm not at all surprised
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs Moderator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1817
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #98 on: July 24, 2017, 03:42:01 PM »
The bugs have mellowed out significantly at Greens lately. This weekend I barely needed any DEET. A few things still have seep spots, but most were in good climbing condition.

The ridge trail directly to the Main Wall is in good shape and easily followable.  The traversing trail from the split to the NE crags is in rough shape from avalanches and tree fall, but if you have been there before or are reasonable at navigating you should be able to get over to the NE fine.

Oh, and, I lead the project above earlier this spring with Amy C. , so it is open - First impressions 5.9+  It is the first route you see coming to the Main Wall from the right (though Eco Challenge is tucked up in a corner  to the right). After a short flake/crack, two bolts lead you up across the face to a short handcrack that brings you up to the base of a beautiful jam/layback/ stem corner. The bolts on the arete are for the 10 to the left (no name yet) From the belay on the lower ledge, head straight  up the nice handcrack. The top anchor has ramshorns and you can lower to the big ledge with anchors to the left (top anchor of the 10) Rack- single nuts and cams up to #3, double cams grey or purple through red #1.

The 10 to the left also starts up a flake system to bolted face to a rounded arete with a crux mantle move on an edge, than delicate moves left until you can layback the edge of the wide crack and step over to a stance.  An easy crack leads to SS glue-in anchors on the big ledge. If you do one of the pitches off the ledge, give the belayer enough leash to move more under the leader.

To the left, starting a little higher and right of a little cave is Amy's Global Warming (there is a project in between with a few bolt holes but no bolts yet). It starts up a flake, passes two bolts (crux) and heads up through a tricky notch into an easy but beautiful corner (the left of the two parallel ones) that angles up and right to the same belay ledge as the 10. The grade is probably between the two routes to the right, maybe 9+, harder if short.

These routes are all  on the right side of the Main Wall, where the trail first meets, and just left of the big roofs and fire ring. All bolts are fat SS glue-ins.

Dima heading up the corner of P1 of First Impressions
« Last Edit: July 24, 2017, 04:59:19 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline crazyt

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 152
  • whatever
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #99 on: Yesterday at 06:23:48 PM »
 I had so much fun on First Impressions last Saturday I went back sunday and did it again. Also had the pleasure of following Mark and Amy on their 1st ascents. Primo granite. Primo routes.
   Mark, I think you meant to say the routes were RIGHT of the roofs and fire ring,eh?
Tom Bowker
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 06:27:30 PM by crazyt »
work hard, play harder

Offline mopowers

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 293
Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #100 on: Today at 09:56:58 PM »
Looks sweet Mark!!! I know where Eco Challenge is but can not picture where this line would be. I will be out soon to find out.