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Author Topic: Diedre  (Read 101 times)

JoeC

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Diedre
« on: Yesterday at 05:18:44 PM »

Was up on Diedre yesterday.  Went to rap off the top of the second pitch because the corner above was wet, when we found that one of the pins is very flimsy.  I slotted a nut next to it and we tied a new rap anchor.  That pin should be replaced.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #1 on: Yesterday at 05:33:50 PM »

... With a stainless steel bolt. If you are leaving fixed iron in the rock for an anchor, do it right, please. No sense replacing it with another pin that is just going to rot out again and become dangerous.

As far as I am concerned, unless dealing with an emergency situation, all fixed anchors should be good quality bolts. They are safer, usually less obtrusive and can be placed in the best spot and don't affect the actual part of the rock you are using to climb (filling cracks or altering their natural shape)
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 05:46:53 PM by M_Sprague »
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #2 on: Yesterday at 05:55:27 PM »

I used the nut to back up the pin and replaced the original tat.  The nut was more of an oh sit deal. 
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M_Sprague

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #3 on: Yesterday at 06:25:51 PM »

Good call in that situation. I was commenting for when people ultimately replace/upgrade anchors. It bugs me when people replace old pins with more of the same. Yeah, they are cool to see sometimes, as historical curiosities, but they are for the most part outdated technology.
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

eyebolter

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #4 on: Yesterday at 07:33:55 PM »

Good advice in general Mark, bad advice n Cathedral where a bolt will likely be chopped.

First 5.9 I ever did on Cathedral, my brother Chris and I hitchhiked up from Rhode Island when I was like 17 and he was 16 and did it without any falls because we were scared shitless I guess.

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JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #5 on: Yesterday at 08:41:11 PM »

I really wanted to finish it.  But the 5.8 corner was wet, which I figured the money pitch was too.  All was good until I got to that damn crux. Went for it and off I came.  There goes my onsight.  Got it on the 3rd go.  The hardest part was just to get your foot around the corner there.
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JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #6 on: Yesterday at 08:41:42 PM »

On another note, are there fixed anchors on the rest of it?
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Echo

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #7 on: Yesterday at 08:46:43 PM »

On another note, are there fixed anchors on the rest of it?

No
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