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Author Topic: Diedre  (Read 431 times)

JoeC

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Diedre
« on: July 31, 2014, 05:18:44 PM »

Was up on Diedre yesterday.  Went to rap off the top of the second pitch because the corner above was wet, when we found that one of the pins is very flimsy.  I slotted a nut next to it and we tied a new rap anchor.  That pin should be replaced.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2014, 05:33:50 PM »

... With a stainless steel bolt. If you are leaving fixed iron in the rock for an anchor, do it right, please. No sense replacing it with another pin that is just going to rot out again and become dangerous.

As far as I am concerned, unless dealing with an emergency situation, all fixed anchors should be good quality bolts. They are safer, usually less obtrusive and can be placed in the best spot and don't affect the actual part of the rock you are using to climb (filling cracks or altering their natural shape)
« Last Edit: July 31, 2014, 05:46:53 PM by M_Sprague »
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2014, 05:55:27 PM »

I used the nut to back up the pin and replaced the original tat.  The nut was more of an oh sit deal. 
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M_Sprague

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2014, 06:25:51 PM »

Good call in that situation. I was commenting for when people ultimately replace/upgrade anchors. It bugs me when people replace old pins with more of the same. Yeah, they are cool to see sometimes, as historical curiosities, but they are for the most part outdated technology.
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

eyebolter

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2014, 07:33:55 PM »

Good advice in general Mark, bad advice n Cathedral where a bolt will likely be chopped.

First 5.9 I ever did on Cathedral, my brother Chris and I hitchhiked up from Rhode Island when I was like 17 and he was 16 and did it without any falls because we were scared shitless I guess.

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JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2014, 08:41:11 PM »

I really wanted to finish it.  But the 5.8 corner was wet, which I figured the money pitch was too.  All was good until I got to that damn crux. Went for it and off I came.  There goes my onsight.  Got it on the 3rd go.  The hardest part was just to get your foot around the corner there.
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JoeC

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2014, 08:41:42 PM »

On another note, are there fixed anchors on the rest of it?
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Echo

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2014, 08:46:43 PM »

On another note, are there fixed anchors on the rest of it?

No
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cjdrover

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2014, 05:56:22 PM »

Honestly, there's no need for a fixed anchor there at all. There is plenty of gear, and the route is both traditionally and typically done bottom to top. When conditions are bad, leaving some bail gear is part of the game...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2014, 07:35:14 PM »

agreed.
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strandman

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2014, 10:54:24 AM »

At this point shouldn't Diedre be stripped of all fixed gear ??  I bet even the pins on P2 are easy to skip with modern gear. Just like ..They Died...Recompense..etc..
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2014, 07:19:00 PM »

Pretty shure that the acient KB @ the crux is the only gear for that move?
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Echo

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2014, 05:22:09 PM »

Pretty shure that the acient KB @ the crux is the only gear for that move?

I caught one leader fall on it a few years ago... I was amazed it held... when it eventually goes I think a bolt would be the only option there... like the 2nd pitch of Robinson Crusoe...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Diedre
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2014, 06:30:35 PM »

I also have caught a leader fall on that pin. 10mm glue in ASAP before someone breaks a leg... 8)
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