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Author Topic: Willoughby  (Read 1447 times)

old_school

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2014, 09:42:40 AM »

Yes is is Awsome ;D Speaking of sandbags. I just read the Ed Webster Description of Repentance rock climb and he has the chockstone @ 5.6!

5.6 A1...lol
I saw you didn't have a #3 or any gear under the chockstone...did you not have any? Very bold pulling that move with the gear at your feet!!  ;) Nice work Nick!
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strandman

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2014, 10:32:38 AM »

Good one nick....5.6 double plus at least
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2014, 10:56:49 AM »

Ha, ha I had TWO #3 cams stuffed up in the crack. Still thought it was pleanty spicy scratching to the top ;D the Ed webster description is to stem over the chockstone @ 5.6. Wonder if he was smoking something when he wrote that 8)
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strandman

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2014, 11:01:15 AM »

As a ROCK climb, it's 5.9  and trying to stem it would be harder. i would say A1  as a mixed/ice climb   :D
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2014, 11:32:08 AM »

I graded it 5.8 my ass 8) which is solid 5.9  You  get a few  good hand jams and some interesting edgeing with the crampon points, a  left hand sloper sidepull w gloves on. then the tricky part is getting a tool into your hand for the little slot hook then knee jam grovel to finally a decent foot jam and some real sticks. I have Never done A1 that felt even remotely that difficult/fun.
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #20 on: March 04, 2014, 11:41:40 AM »

First trip to Willoughby this past weekend. Sounds like I had similar conditions to Al. A little brittle and in consistent. Very chilly. While I was leading on slabs right my partner witnessed our neighbors perform the infamous 2 rope TR with the ever so popular off belay passing of the knot. And can anyone explain why when you greet a French Canadien  climber they just stare at you blankly?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #21 on: March 04, 2014, 11:57:56 AM »

still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P
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old_school

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #22 on: March 04, 2014, 12:00:06 PM »

still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P


Soooooofffffft catch!!  ;) :P
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neiceclimber

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #23 on: March 04, 2014, 01:15:29 PM »

still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P

Right, add the likelihood that the knots not super cinched and slippage through the belay device and you could be looking at a 50 footer. Why anyone would top rope at Willoughby is beyond me.
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Admin Al

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #24 on: April 01, 2014, 10:33:45 PM »

Climbed Mindbender and Renormalization at the Lake with Paul Cormier today. Tho it was a fabulous day, this is the last day at the Lake for me this winter. The sun is just too warm now. By the time we finished Renormalization at about 2:30 close to 50 and the screws were melting out!
« Last Edit: April 01, 2014, 10:35:16 PM by Admin Al »
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Al Hospers
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #25 on: April 02, 2014, 06:33:13 AM »

any other year and I would think that was an April fools post  but this year I believe you :o
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Admin Al

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #26 on: April 02, 2014, 06:58:08 AM »

no April Fools joke, but some would have said we were April fools for doing it on a day this warm! BTW, while the ice was soft in places, it was also brittle, punky, plastic, fractured, smooth, candled, fat, thin and everything in between. in one particularly hard spot near the top of the crux on Mindbender the ice got totally clear and you could see the water running behind it! neither one of us had the words "hero ice" come to mind! [wry grin]
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Al Hospers
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Jeff

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #27 on: April 02, 2014, 09:04:23 AM »

Sounds like Al got "renormalized" just in time for rock/bike season; not a minute to spare--now temps will probably drop to low teens and we'll have a blizzard!
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Admin Al

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Re: Willoughby
« Reply #28 on: April 02, 2014, 02:21:33 PM »

Sounds like Al got "renormalized" just in time for rock/bike season; not a minute to spare--now temps will probably drop to low teens and we'll have a blizzard!

too true...
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Al Hospers
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