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Author Topic: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.  (Read 9787 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #105 on: December 01, 2013, 06:22:28 PM »

Shoestring is definatly mid winter fat in the ice dept just no snow.
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markvnh

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #106 on: December 01, 2013, 06:43:39 PM »

Left Hand Monkey Wrench - bottom as big and fat as ever. Up thru corner was candled ice on right side with small pillows on the left so the stemming was delicate. Upper was running a bit and turf shots to the trees.

Upper Hitchcock - lots of ice all the way from the bottom with no snow. Maybe a yard wide through the middle section. Second pitch to the trees at the top for the walk off was fat.

All ice was pretty plastic and all three pitches took 16's where you needed them.

Upper East Face - fat.

Didn't walk over to the Cleft area but would imagine the same conditions. Elephants Head would be ok too.

A great day out and fabulous early conditions.
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #107 on: December 01, 2013, 09:42:12 PM »

Had the morning & early afternoon free so I took a drive up to Crawford Notch. I was planning on doing Shoestring, but there were 3 cars there and as I drove by someone walked out of the woods. I decided to pass on that. As I drove by Frankenstein Standard looked great, but there were 2 parties there. Nobody was on Willies, but I couldn't tell how thick it was. When I got to Willard there was a party on Gully #1 and nobody on Cinema, but Cinema looked thin. There was someone finishing Lower Hitchcock, but no one else visible so I figured that was the charm!

As I walked down the tracks I saw old footprints going up toward the slab that's right below The Cleft. Since that was my ultimate destination I headed up. The slab was nice climbing and dumped me out right at the base of The Cleft. It looked pretty good, as did Read Between The Lines. Just as I started up the Cleft Mark Synnott came up with a client. We chatted a bit and I went on up. He waited a bit and followed me, getting up just as I finished the step. The ice was really great, pretty much hero ice all the way up.

Someone had beat out the path to the main trail and that was nice. I popped on my MicroSpikes and zipped down the trail and back to the car quickly. 2 1/2 hours car to car for the first time out this season, not too bad.

On the way home I checked out Frankenstein and the stuff right of the Amphitheater looks generally good. Dropline is building as is Welcome To The Machine. The latter is especially cool since it hasn't come in for 2 years!

IMO for now ice season is IN!!!! Not everything is climbable, but enough is that it's well worth getting out there.
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #108 on: December 01, 2013, 11:23:06 PM »

Nice... IMO that little slab route directly below The Cleft is pretty under-rated, just like Left Hand Monkey Wrench was 5 years ago (and now it is super popular).

That slab route feeds right into the Cleft and makes an excellent 2+ adventure, an excellent alternative to Hitchcock when it is busy...

LHMW is good and all.. but requires a bit of thrashing to get to Cleft or Upper Hitchcock....

This slabby thing you climbed has a runoff directly from the Cleft that is easy(ier) to follow...

Wish it had a better name than “that slabby bit o’ ice below the Cleft”...
« Last Edit: December 01, 2013, 11:24:58 PM by DMan »
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markvnh

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #109 on: December 02, 2013, 05:59:49 AM »

That thrash from LHMW is even worse early in the season when the boulders are barely snow covered (especially when your still nursing a two month old ankle injury!).

And agree that "slab" needs a name! All in favor of DMan naming it - aye!
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #110 on: December 02, 2013, 06:44:51 AM »

I was talking with Synnott yesterday and we agreed that the slab is actually the 1st pitch of The Cleft.

The only downside of that slab, and the one further right, is the 200 yard bushwhack up to the base.
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Al Hospers
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punxnotdead

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #111 on: December 02, 2013, 10:08:43 AM »

Did Landslide gully with Slink yesterday. Hardly any snow and plenty of ice made for a good day.
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andrewclimber

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #112 on: December 02, 2013, 10:54:56 AM »

Had the morning & early afternoon free so I took a drive up to Crawford Notch. I was planning on doing Shoestring, but there were 3 cars there and as I drove by someone walked out of the woods. I decided to pass on that. As I drove by Frankenstein Standard looked great, but there were 2 parties there...

We were the second party on Standard on 12/1 - the conditions weren't difficult to climb but the ice was really wet and there was a steady stream running off the roof of the cave.  Screws took but were kind of dubious in slushy, wet ice.

We checked out the Amphitheater after and heard some very large chunks coming off Pegasus and Chia.

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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #113 on: December 02, 2013, 12:34:15 PM »

Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?
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Al Hospers
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andrewclimber

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #114 on: December 02, 2013, 01:47:33 PM »

Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?

Nope, that was the group ahead of us, some nice folks from Portland.  They're standing on top of the cave in your photo (Daniel and I were in the cave waiting).
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #115 on: December 02, 2013, 05:26:15 PM »

Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?

Nope, that was the group ahead of us, some nice folks from Portland.  They're standing on top of the cave in your photo (Daniel and I were in the cave waiting).

cool... BTW I looked at you folks through binoculars and it looked as if there were a couple of picks and something else on the ice left of the cave. what was that?
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #116 on: December 02, 2013, 09:11:34 PM »

I was talking with Synnott yesterday and we agreed that the slab is actually the 1st pitch of The Cleft.

The only downside of that slab, and the one further right, is the 200 yard bushwhack up to the base.

It makes an excellent approach to The Cleft, but it is definitely NOT the 1st pitch of The Cleft. The Cleft is a very defined existing guidebook route... it would not do well to describe the slab as “the first pitch of The Cleft”.

Calling it “The Cleft Approach Slab” makes way more sense practically...

And the bushwhack is shorter an easier than LHMW, both approaching, and linking to The Cleft
« Last Edit: December 02, 2013, 09:16:25 PM by DMan »
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snowleopard

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #117 on: December 03, 2013, 12:21:17 AM »

I concur with Dman, definitely not the "first pitch of The Cleft", but an obvious great link up.

Jim Hagan (Wild Country circa 90's in Conway) used to call it "Sea of Green" due to the ice having
a green tint as seen from the road when we climbed it in "89.  We never could find anyone who had been
on it or any name for that matter, but always assumed someone must have done it prior to us.

It's a worthwhile outing on its own (especially handy as a crowd beater for Hitchcock or Cinema traffic jams)
Deserves to be named.  My vote would be for Hagan's
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markvnh

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #118 on: December 03, 2013, 05:06:28 AM »

Damn - Jim Hagan. Great guy. An inspiration. Climbed with him when he lived in the Manchester area and worked at All Outdoors. And at times when he moved north. He left us too early. If Jim called it Sea of Green" back then I'm seconding for giving it that name now!
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frik

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #119 on: December 03, 2013, 10:19:45 AM »

By all means, feel free to piss on everyone who climbed it in the 70's and thought it had already been done back then.
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