Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.

[Admin Al]

I climbed Standard Left this morning (New Years Day) with Brad White. While it was crusty and brittle and quite cold, it was a perfect way to bring in the New Year. many things look good, with the unfortunate exception of the Frankenstein Amphitheater!

[DWT]

I climbed Standard Left this morning (New Years Day) with Brad White. While it was crusty and brittle and quite cold, it was a perfect way to bring in the New Year. many things look good, with the unfortunate exception of the Frankenstein Amphitheater!

What's the deal with the amphitheater?

[Admin Al]

it's been too sunny in there and the ice isn't really forming well. Smear has some ice but it's thin and the ice on the ramp shows rock through it. the pillars on Pegasus are barely there and look like they are detached. there is ice on Chia but it's thin and the topout at the end of the ramp is rock! there is some ice on Cave Route, but none on Widow's Walk. Bob's Delight is a mess with rock in the middle and at the top.

it ain't happening yet!

[Admin Al]

A bit early in the season for this, but I managed a 3 sport day today... Climbed Standard Left this morning, xc-skied out back with my son in the early afternoon and then got out for my first winter ride on the mountain bike with my new studded tires. The latter is a work in progress I will admit, but it was fun.

[Admin Al]

Things are sure looking a LOT better now. Many things are IN and by the weekend I'll bet almost everything will be.

[DLottmann]

pics on Chauvin FB show Chia "in" and Bob's getting done

[DLottmann]

FYI “Cocaine” looks in to me on the south face of Franks... never heard of anyone climb this and wish I had a day off to go up there... should be 4+... would love to hear if anyone goes up there....

[Admin Al]

this afternoon I went up to Crawford Notch and ran up Cinema, hiked over to Upper Hitchcock and rapped down. it was 35 degrees when I left the car and about the same when I got back. It was actually too warm. the weather predictions are for even warmer temps all the way through the weekend! [SIGH]

1) walk down the tracks: 20 minutes
2) gear up: 5 minutes
3) climbing: 30 minutes
4) slog over to Lower Hitchcock: 40 minutes
   nobody had beat it out in the past day or two and the snow was really sticky. [yuck]
5) rap and walk out 30 minutes

all in all a nice lunchtime break...

saw Art Mooney on Snot Rocket on the walk out... He and his partner had climbed Gully #1 and Great Madness that morning.

[Admin Al]

on Monday I went over to the North End and ran laps on Thresher and the pillars. It's all in pretty good shape right now. On the way back I walked along the cliff and checked out what was happening. Unicorn looks climbable, Remission is OUT, Repentance P1 is OK but the rest is OUT. I heard someone on Diagonal and it was Sam Bendroth and Elliot Gaddy. It was pouring water up there and quite warm in the sun. I'd be surprised if it hangs in there at this rate.

[Admin Al]

Sheesh, it was drizzling and 39 degrees at 1 AM last night when I got home from my gig! It's about the same now without the rain. I knew it was going to be warmer, but didn't expect this.

[Admin Al]

I get slammed when I say the ice isn't IN, when I think it's marginal, then I get slammed when I say it's good, but I don't predict that it's going to hell in a handbasket 'cause things are going to warm up. it's funny, in an annoying kind of way. right NOW in my NSHO the ice is in great shape almost everywhere. if you can manage it, maybe call in sick, get out there and go ice climbing.

[DLottmann]

Silver Cascade was fun yesterday, a couple spots of open sprayers but you could stay on the thick ice... almost got my boot wet near the top... should be great after this cold snap, we had it to ourselves: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2013/01/21/ice-climbing-201/

[xcrag_corex]

Chilly day today up on Webster. Took Central to Greens Chasm. The rock move was non existent...totally covered in ice. The ice was a little brittle but got better the further you went up. First time up there and it won't be my last. what an outstanding setting

[old_school]

Very brittle conditions on Left Hand Monkey Wrench and the Cleft this past Sunday. We also climbed a very steep Read Between the Lines on Sunday...interesting conditions on that. Very boney start (as usual) with really only one section that had a thin ribbon of ice...most of it was totally unbonded and brittle...probably the first 20-25' or so, then the ice got progressively better. The last 10-12' was ver candled and brittle but is forming up nicely. A good Sunday pump...that's for sure. 

[markvnh]

Climbed Shoestring solo on Saturday 2-23. It's a staircase of steps low and some very nice fat ice through the the middle and higher up - in the normal ice sections. Lots of people climbing - at least ten.