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Author Topic: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.  (Read 11342 times)

tim03303

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2011, 08:22:16 PM »

We climbed Hitchcock on Thursday.  (Al that was us that you saw/yellow jacket).  Lower HG was an open/running brook.  The ice started about 100ft below the rock section.  Upper HG was good.  The bottom was crusty snow/ice that sheared out, the top curtain was steep but with a good turf top out.

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rpdoucette

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2012, 08:53:56 PM »

Climbed at Frankenstein - Lost in the Forest and Walk in the Forest - yesterday.  The ice there is in good shape.  "Walk" is hollow in a coupla spots and very thin at the topout.
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2012, 10:14:16 PM »

many of the topouts are thin now. gotta be sure to place gear before you try to make it that  final 4'!  :P
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2012, 10:16:42 PM »

it was a beautiful day today, Sunday. in fact the whole weekend was a bit warm, but still good. unfortunately it's raining right now at Cathedral Ledge! let's hope that it's short-lived...
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Al Hospers
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punxnotdead

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2012, 10:36:07 PM »

Climbed standard route at Frankie today. 45 friggin degrees...... good ice though
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slink

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #20 on: January 02, 2012, 05:57:21 PM »

Punx great day out after missinag all of last season.Hopefully things settle in or we will just have to rock climb ;D
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old_school

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #21 on: January 02, 2012, 06:17:40 PM »

At IME this afternoon and heard that one of the pillars at the top of standard let go and some of the debris struck a climber. This is third hand, but it sounded like he/she was OK...split helmet, a bit shaken up but rapped off the route under his/her own power and required no rescue. Very lucky person...that one could have been very bad!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

DWT

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #22 on: January 02, 2012, 07:29:47 PM »

 :-\ geez.  Sounds terrifying.  Anybody reading this ever have that happen?  Details?
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Rubberhead

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #23 on: January 02, 2012, 09:33:29 PM »

It was my buddy that got hit today. He was halfway up the first pitch when it happened.   I was belaying him up from the cave when a huge slab of ice came off the top.  It sounded like a bomb went off and then an avalanche of ice came cascading down over him.   2 or 3 blocks of ice about the size of a large suitcase went flying by, plus 5-10 the size of basketballs.  The slab exploded as it came down the route and for a couple seconds I lost sight of him in the whiteout.  Scariest things I've ever encountered in the mountains.

from what I was told by a group repelling down the right side of the route at the time, the lead climber of the group ahead of us climbed straight up a sketchy bit of ice on the last vertical section and dislodged the whole face as he topped out.  I guess it missed his second on the way down because she seemed fine. 

Luckily, our rope wasn't cut or damaged and we were low enough that I could lower him down.  I rapped down from the cave.
He has a large cut on the back of his head (his helmet did its job!) and we went to the hospital in N.Conway and he got 6 staples to keep the gash closed.

We were lucky and it could have been much, much worse. He had stopped to remove a screw and a minute or 2 later he would have been climbing up over the bulge and the ice would have hit him square in the face/chest, etc.  As it was, he was able to crouch down against the bulge and much of the ice cascaded over his head. 

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old_school

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #24 on: January 02, 2012, 10:02:20 PM »

Holy Sh@*t...  :o

So glad you are all ok. That was a close call. I wish your partner a speedy recovery.

grammy
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

DLottmann

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #25 on: January 02, 2012, 11:06:06 PM »

Glad no one got killed. Seemed pretty warm in town today, things must be pretty undermined from the recent weather. Beware the sun + above freezing temps.
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David_G48

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #26 on: January 02, 2012, 11:17:46 PM »

Happy to read that no one was seriously hurt. It could have had some dire results with someone in the wrong spot at the wrong time. At the beginning of the season it doesn't take very many days of mild weather to cause unstable conditions. The ice has not had enough time to securely bond to the cliffs. Those columns at the top of Standard were ok on Friday but by no means were they fat or bonded 100% even though they were climable :).
"Cave Ne Glacies Climber"
Be safe out there!
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Rubberhead

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #27 on: January 03, 2012, 08:30:44 AM »

Glad no one got killed. Seemed pretty warm in town today, things must be pretty undermined from the recent weather. Beware the sun + above freezing temps.

Yeah, we had a lot of time to think about what happened on our ride home. The temps were warmer than I anticipated. There were snow flurries on and off all day and little sun so things seemed to be holding together pretty well.  Down low the ice was fine, except for some small sections that were beginning to rot from the traffic and temps.   The group rappelling down had bailed right before topping out because they didn't like the look of the last bit. 

In hindsight, with the warm temps, we should have either waited until the pair in front of us had finished, so there was less chance of falling ice, or called it a day since the warmer daytime temps had had time to do damage.
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DWT

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #28 on: January 03, 2012, 09:42:31 AM »

Glad you guys are "OK".
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Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #29 on: January 03, 2012, 04:18:16 PM »

glad to hear the all are relatively OK. in spite of how reasonable the ice has been on any given day. it's not "good" yet. we have had so many days of cold/warm/dry/wet and everything in between that it's actually a bit of a crap shoot on climbs that are in the sun, like Standard. IMNSHO until we get some consistent cold temps plus no rain you need to be super careful on what you climb.
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Al Hospers
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