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Author Topic: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass  (Read 3227 times)

M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #30 on: April 18, 2013, 06:01:50 PM »

Anybody driven across the Kanc or better yet hiked in the area in the last few days and noticed if the snow looks gone out towards Owl's and Greens? I'm really hoping to get out and clean and throw a few bolts in on the second pitches of a couple projects at Owls  before the bugs hit. I am contemplating driving up late tonight or later in the weekend and wonder if it would be worth an attempt. As soon as I can get them done we'll have a couple really sweet 2 pitch 5.10+s for everybody to do.  :)
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mopowers

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2013, 06:24:03 PM »

Hey Mark-  Still snow in the higher elevations around my place, not sure if thats any indication. I plan to get out to Green's for a weekend very soon. Hopefully you can join us.
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Admin Al

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #32 on: April 18, 2013, 06:38:20 PM »

I attempted to ride the bike up Bear Notch from the Bartlett side on Tuesday. I was thwarted no more than 1/4 mile up by quite a lot of snow. I met a gentleman on his way down who said he had walked all the way to the top and described it as a "ton of snow up there!" If that's any indication, I would figure you got a while before you're getting in there. FWIW there were fresh snowmobile tracks up above where I stopped!
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Al Hospers
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M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #33 on: April 18, 2013, 07:24:07 PM »

Thanks much, Al. Saved me a bunch of driving and wasted time. It sounds like I'll have to wait another week at least. Even with it fairly clear down by the road I have ended up with some pretty deep postholing a little ways up  Rob Brook before. Both crags are just under 3000 ft elevation

Dave. I'm psyched for Greens,  but am pretty sure my two most immediate projects there will be wet for a while. That is why I was thinking my Owls projects first.(also no river crossing and less wet soggy road to walk) Let me know when you are thinking of going though, and I'll try to come along. I always have stuff to do out there. At Owls I also would like to bolt the slab between the Alaskan Slab and Lonesome Owl. I TRed it with Olga and it was really nice. I'll skip the 13 finish for now  :D and put an anchor in at the overlap for an easy 11.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 07:26:57 PM by M_Sprague »
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Admin Al

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #34 on: April 18, 2013, 11:39:40 PM »

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Al Hospers
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M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #35 on: April 20, 2013, 08:20:26 AM »

Well, compared to a hard 11  ;)
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Jeff

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #36 on: April 20, 2013, 12:42:02 PM »

Hard 11= redundancy reigns, tautologically speaking! :P
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strandman

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #37 on: April 20, 2013, 03:31:50 PM »

Mark - it's really 10+.. right ?
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M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #38 on: April 30, 2013, 11:18:09 AM »

10+ it is John. I think I am going to rate everything 10+ from now on unless it is easier. There is nothing harder than 10+

I was out at Owls the last two days. It was absolutely gorgeous, perfect climbing weather. There were definitely wet spots and water running down in streaks, but things were drier than I expected, with plenty climbable. There was some snow patches to navigate on the way in, but they were disappearing quickly. I am guessing they will be pretty much gone by next weekend. The trail in from the forest road (at least to the left cliff) was easily followable, with good cairns marking the start. There were absolutely no bugs. Hopefully we will get another week or maybe two before they come in and get hideous.

I was working on putting the two bolts I wanted on the second pitch of Lady of the Lake and rescrubbing for finally doing the lead. That pitch is so wild, a little easy off-width to hands then fingercrack to an airy stance, then work you way out the overhangs at the top. For a 200 foot climb it is wicked exposed. I was getting the  :-\ factor even climbing it on TR self belay. Old school 10+. The first pitch has gotten pretty dirty and the climbing is not as great. I'll re-clean it, but a better link up is to do the Unnamed Corner 10a for the first pitch since it brings you to the same belay ledge. NH 4 stars for sure. Of course I found another wild 2 pitch line to the left past Sporty Owl, with the final pitch following a crack up the side of a jutting prow, so started cleaning that. It looks like it may go all trad.

People ask me which is better, Owl's or Greens. Coming from climbing mostly at Greens the last few years, they are both about the same height at their tallest, but with the steep jutting features, Owls gives more sense of exposure. The rock is usually good, but courser grained and not as hard as some of that at Green's. My verdict is that they are both great with classic routes at both. Owls lends its self to more closely packed routes and it is more developed. Green's routes are more spaced apart, following clean, obvious lines.

Speaking of Greens, I ran in to David Powers and Matt Elliott at the parking lot. They had just come from Greens and said somebody had left a bunch of toilet paper clumps around the bivy area and had randomly cut some fir trees down at  hip height and left them,  probably over the winter. It was really disappointing to hear. I'm guessing it was some  idiotic kids, but I have been surprised at the stupidity of some climbers before. Please don't shit around the bivy area and where you do, bury it well, and if you can't do that because it is winter, carefully burn or carry out the paper. Some people should be taken out of the gene pool before they breed. There is not exactly a shortage of trees in NE, so it doesn't bother me if a tree gets cut for good reason, but randomly cutting them off and leaving a mess  :-[

Rob Brook Rd is still a little soft for riding efficiently but should harden up quickly. As usual in the spring, per Matt and David, the road up along Birch Hill to get to Green's is a sloppy mess..better to freeze you legs for a few minutes and do the Swift River fording way in.
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strandman

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #39 on: April 30, 2013, 05:32:26 PM »

Right 10+ for all

I have biked farther along the robbrook instead of going the birch hill way, then a sharp cut back right, brings you under the boulder field.  The  couple minutes in the river may be better though.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #40 on: May 07, 2013, 09:30:53 AM »

It was fantastic out at Owls this weekend. No bugs until just a few Monday that weren't biting. Things were dry for the most part with just a few seeps over on the White Owl face that should be gone soon. I expect the bugs will be there next weekend, but with things so dry maybe we won't get hit hard (hoping at least).

Some climbing was getting done while I worked on routes. John and Jordan were there for the weekend and after a day at Greens Adam and Tom Bowker hiked over for Sunday. I posted photos over on MountainProject, but here is one of Adam getting the on-sight of Crack of the World
and one of John and Jordan on p3, The RGC

Wish I could get my shadow out of the pic.

I got the slab between Lonesome Owl and the Alaskan Slab all bolted with the help of John and Jordan checking bolt placements (thanks mopowers for the bolts), anchors on a new 2 pitch project and some scrubbing done.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2013, 09:52:56 AM by M_Sprague »
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eyebolter

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #41 on: May 07, 2013, 10:41:54 AM »

Great pics Mark, I'm heading out there this summer once Mrs. Eyebolter is on summer vacation.   RGC would be more crowded than Funhouse if it was on Cathedral.

Only climbing within 10 minutes of home for now, but have just cleaned out a great new cave that is all shady and has one V6 so far, and three much harder lines.   Have lost weight but not enough.....
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M_Sprague

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #42 on: May 07, 2013, 11:45:01 AM »

Great news, Ward. It will be nice having the crew out there again. I'll try to get as much ready to climb for when you can make it. I need to get a good long steep warm-up in over on the right wall. I am feeling like an out of shape porker too. I have taken to climbing slabs so I can get up anything. The tweaky edges of Little Wing felt mean Sunday. I need to get over and boulder with you to get my fingers back.
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crazyt

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #43 on: May 07, 2013, 01:01:43 PM »

Great pics Mark. MP too! Greens on Saturday and Owls Sunday with a rope gun like Adam made for the best weekend of the season so far. The quality of the lines is 2nd to none. Worth the effort to get out there. Green Peace is mother natures gift to climbers!
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mopowers

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Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Reply #44 on: May 07, 2013, 02:38:11 PM »

GREAT pictures guys! Owls cliff is now at the top of my destination list.

What a weekend Tom! Greens,Owls and lots of hard climbing in one weekend. Kudos to you and your partner.

Mark, i will refrain from climbing your new slab route at Owls if i get out there soon. I have a nasty habit of jumping on routes before they are done, sorry about that. That RGC is going to be my primary goal, Crack of the World looks a little steep for me.

Thanks for sharing guys. This is all great stuff for someone who was inside working all weekend.
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