Southern White Mountains: Rumney and Surroundings

[JChepes]

Kinsman was still hanging in there yesterday.  Left side of main area pretty good.  Beast did not look that well but flow to the left still good. 
Headed to Rumney in the afternoon and conditions were great. 

[Hellmans]

I'm looking for some rock trad climbing next week-end (6-7 april) and I would like advices on the best bets to start the season... anything dry ready to go ?

should I go more south or Rumney should be fine ? Where is the best southfacing wall ?

If you know something dry where I can slowly work my way from 5.5 to 5.10, please give routes names and locations.

If you think I would be better to go Ice climbing, let me know and I guess I'll change my plans 

[Climber57r]

Rumney has been pretty dry lately. Upper Vader wall, Jimmy Cliff (Left Side), and Crow's nest are a great outing for routes 5.5 and up. Clip a dee doo dah is a great 2 pitch bolted slab for 5.3. Also PWay dried up quick on the walls.
The Dome has some great moderate trad lines and the lower left wall (Below The Dome) has some great cracks as well. 5.6 - 5.8 and they are south facing/ dry. Parking at the Horse Farm though.
I can not vouch for anything up north..last I heard was spotty and seeping on the moderates. Enjoy.

[Hellmans]

thank you soo much, this is exactly what I was looking for ! Any more suggestions are welcome...

Thank's !!

[tradmanclimbz]

Moosalake is great. you can still ski all the way to the parking lot @ the carrige road as of today.

[Hellmans]

Conditions in Rumney last week-end were amazing. Mostly dry with a few wet spot but definitely better than what I was expecting...

2 days of pure pleasure...

April 6th 2013, Rumney, NH

Parking lot wall
Easily amused 5.7
Easily aroused 5.9

Upper Vador wall
Frosted flakes 5.7

Crow’s nest
Clambake 5.9+
Calypso 5.10c
Peewee’ big adventure 5.4 Trad
Seabreeze 5.9
The Trad’s nest 5.9

April 7th 2013 Rumney, NH

The meadows
Mom’s Pancake 5.6
False Modesty 5.7
Easy terms 5.8
Beginners Route 5.5 Trad
Holderness Arete 5.10b
Holderness school corner 5.8
Rhinobucket 5.10a

[sneoh]

Are the flies out yet?
Is there still seepage from the top at Orange Crush?  Which routes are still wet?
Thanks!

[danf]

I haven't been to Rumney in a couple of weeks, but I do know the flies are out in the Ossipee area.  Started showing up here last weekend and started biting a day or two ago.  Definitely were bothersome this morning on the job site in Dover.  If they aren't out at Rumney now, they soon will be I'm sure!

[Admin Al]

YUCK....

not biting up here in the Whites yet, but I'm sure we're not far off...

[sneoh]

A few blackflies at Rumney today and they are biting!
Expect nuisance for the next three weeks or so.

[sneoh]

Ward is right; conditions were really good for August at Farley today (2nd and 3rd Tier).
Quit bitching and get out tomorrow, folks. I might head back to F or head North.....
   

[Pete Jackson]

The recent cold evening temps have put the late summer hatch of bugs into the dirt. Additionally, the rock has dried out from the last week's rain in most places.

Rumney conditions are excellent (I'm sure that goes for everywhere). Get it while it's good!

[Admin Al]

this week has been darn close to perfection...

[Pete Jackson]

I got out on a little dry-ish rock yesterday at Main Cliff. The climbable ice that had formed last week was still taking a beating: most of it has come down. The Main Cliff Right trail is a shooting gallery of ice boulders. Be careful. One guy came out to look around for ice to climb. He didn't stay long.

Today temps have dropped considerably. Looks like favorable conditions for rebuilding late this week and early next. I wouldn't come out to climb Rumney ice just yet, but it'll be back in soon. It's very very wet out here.

[markvnh]

Climbed at Kinsman today. Most everything in the amphitheater is in very good shape. With that said while Pot-O-Gold is touching down it really needs a bit more build up to not get hacked up and ruined for the year. It has been climbed - and would assume TR as gear would have been pretty poor. Didn't walk over but assume The Beast is probably similar to P-O-G.

And lotsa people out as could be expected.