Southern White Mountains: Rumney and Surroundings

[markvnh]

Climbed at Rumney today. I wouldn't exactly say "it's in." The surprising thing was that at -3 at 9:30 and the sun out and no wind it wasnt too bad. With that said a bit of conditions info:

Selsun Blue - plenty of ice top to bottom but was candled low and white and airy at the top. Water dripping!

Cave Route - in kinda funky shape but climbed well and took decent gear.

Franky Lee - some guys dropped a rope on it and I took a lap. In very good condition.

Centerfold - ice top to bottom but thin in spots and basically melting out from behind. Backed off.

Shaelyns Way - had enough ice to climb though you'd most certainly want double ropes if you want to protect with short screws and clip some bolts.

Meadows - all the TR folks were bumming as there's really not much in or at least as usual.

None of the hard stuff up high looked in. Parallel Gully wasn't in.

The cold will help. And no sun!

[markvnh]

Newfound Lake - everything in Saturday. Ice was very funky - top layer of ice crust, snow and then real ice. Brutally cold!

Rumney - just "add more ice" to my January 1 report. Glenn Cilley with a very nice lead of Shaelyn's Way.

[markvnh]

Everyting at Kinsman survived the rain. And everyting is big, fat and a waterfall. More water running than I can remember in March at seasons end. There were 14 cars parked when I left so you can imagine how crowded it was on the climbs. Ropes everywhere.

Would imagine that Rumney, facing south took a big hit. If not now it will in the next few days with warm temps and sun.

[tradmanclimbz]

almost everythig @ holts completly gone....

[kobrien87]

Does anyone have any recent updates for rumney or newfound lake?  Looking for some southern NH ice tomorrow.  Thanks.

[darwined]

Newfound was fat last Thursday morning.  I don't imagine much has changed.  Bring a kidney belt for West Shore Road.  The frost heaves are IMPRESSIVE!  Maybe someone else can better explain the parking situation over there.  To me, it looks like a bit of a slog from the state park.  Beautiful venue anyhow.  Have Fun

[markvnh]

Derek,

If coming from the south there's usually a small plowed pull out about a half mile before on the right. Usually enough for two cars but make sure you're not over the road line if it's visible.

As for the state park - it works and what I've done is drop partner and gear at the climb, go back and park and then hitchhike back. Usually you'll get picked up in a few minutes.

With that though I have seen folks in driveways or outside and asked to park if it's not a problem - and never remember anyone saying no.

Mark

[Pete Jackson]

Rock season! Went to Rumney today and we found dry rock. Snowshoes required higher on the hill. Got the screaming barfies, that's a first for me on rock.

[Admin Al]

Got the screaming barfies, that's a first for me on rock.

[markvnh]

Climbed at Rumney today. Parking lot full and small because of snow piles - probably 40 cars. People waiting for my spot when I left. Rangers were "ticketing" if you didn't happen to pay.

I was up at Jimmy Cliff. Most stuff dry. Worse part is there's still lots of snow so there's a bit of post holing on the hike in and out.

Ice in spots falling because of the sun so be careful and aware of what's above you.

[M_Sprague]

More rockfall off of Rock du Jour on the Main Cliff area. The place is a deathtrap! Nobody was hurt, luckily, but it could have been bad. From the Armed and Dangerous area I saw a suitcase size piece go bouncing and sailing through the woods. Be careful out there folks. With all the snow and super cold we had this winter and now the sudden warming, there is going to be a lot of loose stuff. I read somewhere where somebody was asking about heading up Mobey Grape this week and  I was thinking "What, are they nuts?"

[sneoh]

Let's close the Main Cliff, Falcons or not!

[markvnh]

While I usually dislike generalizations I think sport climbers for the most part don't think of Rumney as being an "active rockfall" area despite the rockfall near the Main Cliff the last few years and Dolt / Jolt last year.

I know from my perspective once I get near the base of any cliff at Rumney the helmet goes on!

Thankfully no one was hurt by Sunday's events.

[WharfRat]

It is kinda a scary thought what with that certain camp organized by a certain Massachusetts rock gym that not only has kids caring for kids but does not require the use of helmets.

Scary just thinking about it. Even more scary to watch. With all this rock fall just plain irresponsible!

[strandman]

Clearly Rumney is falling becasue of all the bolts  weight....and glue.

i would say that if you have to wear a helmet at a sport area..then it's not really a sport area...